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Unread 06-29-2006, 10:18 AM   #1
fossill
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Only starts on second try

I've had this problem as long as I've owned this jeep, bought it used in 04. The first time I try to start it, it'll just crank away and I won't get the engine to turn over. So I stop after a few seconds and try again, bingo! Always. Cold start, warm start, all types of temperatures and weather, its all the same. Any thoughts?

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Unread 06-29-2006, 10:26 AM   #2
AznDrgn
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Have you tried turning the key to the on position and leaving it for a few seconds and then starting it? Or turn the key on and off a couple of times then start. Mine did that for a while before I changed the fuel pump, was probably the check valve in the pump not holding prime and the fuel system needing to reprime before it starts.
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Unread 06-29-2006, 10:28 AM   #3
XJH-007
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Whoa...strange.

When you turn the key over the 1st time can you hear the fuel pump energize??

Could be a problem with the Fuel/Oil pressure relay. If the CPU detects lack of oil pressure it will shut off or not engage the fuel pump (incase the vehicle is rolled in a firey accident).

So by cranking you are pumping up the oil pressure, then the 2nd time the CPU see's the pressure and kicks the fuel pump on........

??
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Unread 06-29-2006, 11:31 AM   #4
chowner
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CPS, mine does the samething sometimes too.
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Unread 06-29-2006, 12:22 PM   #5
winks00XJ
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I used to have the same problem, wouldnt start on the first crank even though I would hear the fuel pump. It would start on the second crank. I replaced the fuel pump and the problem went away.
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Unread 06-29-2006, 12:47 PM   #6
jrn1023
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I'll add another vote for the fuel pump(more specifically the regulator which is part of the fuel pump module). On our `98 it would crank and crank. Turn the key off and on again and it would then start. Had a mechanic friend put a fuel pressure gauge on it and you could see it was not getting up to full pressure. Turning the key on and of a few time before cranking would cause the pressure to build enough to start. Replace the fuel module/pump unit and all is well. Oh, and leaving the key in the on position for a few seconds before cranking would not work for us since the pressure would begin to drop almost immediately after turning the key to the on position.
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Unread 06-29-2006, 01:04 PM   #7
CJ7-Tim
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1997 and newer XJ's have issues with their fuel pumps. The check valve that holds pressure in the fuel line when the motor is off, likes to fail. It is located in the fuel pump and is not a seperate replaceable part. When you shut off the motor fuel pressure slowly falls to zero slowly at first, then faster and faster. Mine would lose pressure after 10 minutes.

Test the pressure at the fuel rail after the XJ has not run for 8 hours.

You can just ignore it and turn the key on and off a few times to pressurize the line. Or You can install a new fuel pump. (EXPENSIVE). Another cure is to put a check valve in the fuel line near the gas tank. Call BMA parts and order one.

I put in the BMW check valve, it came with the rubber hose and some hose clamps, problem solved. (Edit: Not really, keep reading)


www.bmaparts.com BMA Parts 1-888-262-3911

p/n 16 14 9 068 988 - fuel line check valve for a BMW 1990 735 iL

about $18.00 shipped

.
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Last edited by CJ7-Tim; 07-12-2006 at 05:09 PM..
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Unread 06-29-2006, 01:17 PM   #8
jrn1023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ7-Tim
1997 and newer XJ's have issues with their fuel pumps. The check valve that holds pressure in the fuel line when the motor is off, likes to fail. It is located on the fuel pump. When you shut off the motor fuel pressure slowly falls to zero slowly at first, then faster and faster. Mine would loose pressure after 10 minutes.

Test the pressure at the fuel rail after the XJ has not run for 8 hours.

You can just ignore it and turn the key on and off a few times to pressurize the line. Or You can install a new fuel pump. (EXPENSIVE). Another cure is to put a check valve in the fuel line near the gas tank. Call BMA parts and order one.

I put in the BMW check valve and it came with the rubber hose and some hose clamps. Problem solved.


www.bmaparts.com BMA Parts 1-888-262-3911

p/n 16 14 9 068 988 - fuel line check valve for a BMW 1990 735 iL

about $18.00 shipped

.
Wow Tim I wish I would've had that information a few hundred dollars ago.
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Unread 06-29-2006, 04:56 PM   #9
MontyTJ02
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before actually turning the key to start it...just leave it in the ON position for a second or two then turn it over. Need to let the fuel pump turn on and pump fuel to the rail and injectors....the no start is caused by no fuel.
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Unread 06-29-2006, 09:08 PM   #10
fossill
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You guys rock. After work, got in the xj, turned it on listening for the fuel pump, turned it off, turned it back on, waited a sec or two, tried turning it over and voila! Completely worked. Thanks!
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Unread 07-28-2006, 08:03 PM   #11
Creek Rat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ7-Tim
1997 and newer XJ's have issues with their fuel pumps. The check valve that holds pressure in the fuel line when the motor is off, likes to fail. It is located in the fuel pump and is not a seperate replaceable part. When you shut off the motor fuel pressure slowly falls to zero slowly at first, then faster and faster. Mine would lose pressure after 10 minutes.

Test the pressure at the fuel rail after the XJ has not run for 8 hours.

You can just ignore it and turn the key on and off a few times to pressurize the line. Or You can install a new fuel pump. (EXPENSIVE). Another cure is to put a check valve in the fuel line near the gas tank. Call BMA parts and order one.
....
I definitely have a loss of fuel pressure after the engine has been off. When it started I wouldn't see the problem unless it sat in the heat all day but now I lose all pressure anytime after 30 or so minutes.

I've got an external check valve to put in tomorrow but I have a question about the fuel lines. On a 2000 XJ there are two lines out of the fuel pump, a pressure line and a return line. Is there a way to verify I'm cutting the right line?

I see from your picture you've put the valve on the line with the quick connect fitting. According to the manual if you disconnect these fittings you have to replace the guts will all new O rings and a fitting to reconnect them, is this true or can the existing fitting be reconnected?

Also, what I guess is the return line goes to a box a few feet from the tank and then lines run to the front. What is this box? I can't find it in the manual, what does it do?

Thanks!
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Unread 08-29-2013, 03:43 AM   #12
ultimo
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Any reply to the above?
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Build Thread-- http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/ultimos-build-1477712/
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Unread 09-02-2013, 04:46 AM   #13
danblue636
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You can't use that external check valve on jeeps after 96...your 2000 has no return line...it will heat soak...build pressure and blow out the diaphragm in the fuel rail...the diaphragm is not replaceable so will need to replace the whole fuel rail.
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Unread 09-02-2013, 04:48 AM   #14
ultimo
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OOOH THANKS! i think i will replace the fuel regulator first, read from the service manual there is a check valve function there too and that this fix worked for some even after they replaced the pump
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Unread 09-02-2013, 06:32 AM   #15
cruiser54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danblue636 View Post
You can't use that external check valve on jeeps after 96...your 2000 has no return line...it will heat soak...build pressure and blow out the diaphragm in the fuel rail...the diaphragm is not replaceable so will need to replace the whole fuel rail.
How come CJ7Tim has one on his 2000 then?
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