[JeepJinx]

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[mgramann]

Maybe try a heavier oil? Most oil consumption is through the rings, sometimes the valve stem seals. Engine blow by is an indicator of these failing.

[AZ Jeff]

I would compression test the engine both wet and dry and diagnose further based on the results of those two tests.

[JeepJinx]

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[cornbrizzle]

pull the plug and squirt a little oil in the hole and then test comp, oil helps seal around the rings to tell you if it's the valves. (wet test)

Brizzle

[JeepJinx]

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[OddTodd72]

Definitely look into changing out the PCV valve or whatever Jeep calls, CPV valve or something like that. It is located on the top of the valve cover near the firewall. My buddy had a problem with oil consumption and the front breather tube and air filter were coated with oil and after changing out the plugged PCV valve his oil consumption dropped considerably. They are a pain to get out but I think the valve and grommet were around $15 from the Jeep dealer. Its not really a valve but a plastic elbow with a small orifice drilled in it.

[JeepJinx]

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[mgramann]

Originally Posted by JeepJinx

I should have mentioned that I did a compression test, results below. Each cylinder checked 2 times (exc. #1, which was checked 4 times). I don't know what a "wet" test is.

Cylinder compression, from front to back:

#1 127
#2 148
#3 140
#4 140
#5 140
#6 140

Regarding "blow by", I checked the airbox and associated tubes, etc. when purchased. There was some gook in the air tube from the TB to the box, but not that much. I figure that was probably 140k+ miles worth and it was probably never cleaned out. I subsequently cleaned it and it's remained clean since.

Something is up with cylinder 1(obviously) I would perform a leakdown test on this cylinder to determine if it's a valve or the rings causing the compression to be down.

[BrunoS]

compression check is always done with throttle body wide open.

overall compression is good.

so is oil pressure.

if no smoke is out of tail pipe...and spark plugs are dry...and clean/tan/light brown/gray...

could be an oil drip from oil filter elbow adaptor to block o-ring dripping while idling.

could also be pressure from within block from plugged ccv orifice in the back of valve cover.

step up from 5w30 oil to 10w30, 20w50 if you must in the summer.

for years i've used "restore" with CSL in the silver can (biggest one, $10, use half bottle in idling engine after an oil change and then go for a long drive, or trip) with excellent results, one of the few things to help old motors/rings/lifters out.

put flourescent dye in the oil and then check for external leaks and tailpipe as well...that will nail the leak....

[AZ Jeff]

Originally Posted by mgramann

Something is up with cylinder 1(obviously) I would perform a leakdown test on this cylinder to determine if it's a valve or the rings causing the compression to be down.

That is the purpose of the "wet" compression test. If the pressures do NOT go up on a wet test, it's a safe bet that a valve on the cylinder with the unimproved reading is bad.

If the readings go up evenly, then all the valves are good, and depending on how MUCH they go up, you can determine ring condition.

[JeepJinx]

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[BrunoS]

wet compression test is 5 ml / 1 tablespoon of 30w oil squirted in spark plug hole just prior to cranking for compression testing.

another test is a cylinder leakdown test using compressed air in the cylinder with a pressure gauge and listening to exhaust, intake, or oil fill cap for rushing air.

after your response and symptoms, i suggest checking the engine coolant temp as a possibility as a motor running too hot can also burn oil without other symptoms.

[JeepJinx]

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[JeepJinx]

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