Oil changing questions

itasor · 01-28-2008, 07:34 PM

I'm planning on changing my oil this weekend since I'm due for a change. This will be the first time I have ever changed oil in a car, so I have some questions. I do it at the end of each season to my mowers, so I know the basics.

I have a 98 XJ with 95k miles. My valve cover gasket leaks a bit and I think that's it but I'm not sure. I want to run a 10W30 oil and I think I want to go with a High Mileage oil. I don't want to start an oil debate, I just have some questions.

I am considering getting Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic Blend 10W30 (regular dino isn't availably anymore in MaxLife). Do you think switching to a "synthetic blend" will have any bad effects on my engine? I know the smaller synthetic particles can leak faster than dino oil, so I figured maybe a blend would be in between. The reason I'm looking at the synthetic blend is because I frequently start the Jeep, drive 1 mile, and shut it off (short trips). I read that synthetic can help in this situation.

Should I decide not to go with the MaxLife, I will get the Castrol GTX High Mileage 10W30. For some reason, this costs MORE than the synthetic blend. Also, my manual and Haynes says to look for the API seal with "Energy Conserving" on it. The GTX High Mileage doesn't have the "Energy Conserving" part on it. Is that a problem?

I know the capacity is 6 quarts. Haynes suggests putting 5 quarts in, running the engine for 1 minute, then adding more if necessary. Is this because not all of the oil drains out? Also, do I need to put a little oil in the new filter before screwing it on, or is it OK to put it on dry?

Should I get an oil filter wrench or will I be able to get the filter off with my hands?

Finally, when I put the oil drain plug back in, how tight should I make it? Haynes says to use a torque wrench but I can't find any tightness values anywhere.

Thank you! Sorry for these dumb questions.

lifted92xj · 01-28-2008, 07:37 PM

the oil doesnt matter you can use whatever you want. you should pick up a pair of oil filter pliers or the wrench that will help alot. when you put the plug back in just make it tight, you dont have to torque it i've never seen someone actually do it just make sure its on there really good. and the energy conserving doesnt matter either

tdogg55555 · 01-28-2008, 07:57 PM

Ok, that is very far from true. You shouldnt just use any oil. Like with anything you pay for what you get. More expensive oils do have better anti foaming agents along with other agents to help prolong the life of the oil. Better oils will not break down as much as cheap basic oil. If you want to take care of your engine and prolong the life of all the components you should definitely go with a good house name oil. I use Castrol GTX 10w 30 in mine and so far its been great. Filters also matter as well, you may want to get one with an anti drainback valve to prevent "dry starts". As far as synthetic goes, thats your call, with 95k, I wouldnt start on synthetic unless it has been used by the previous owner. But thats your call. You definitely shouldnt use "just any oil". Thats terrible advice.

itasor · 01-28-2008, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tdogg55555

As far as synthetic goes, thats your call, with 95k, I wouldnt start on synthetic unless it has been used by the previous owner.

I guess that was my question. I have heard that about synthetics, but is a "synthetic blend" any different? I definitely don't want synthetic for it's long oil change interval. Every 3,000k is what I do since I drive very short distances. I only considered the blend because I figured it might help with my starting when it's cold out, driving a short distance, and turning it off before the oil can even warm up.

Castrol GTX is energy saving, just the GTX High Mileage isn't. The MaxLife is.

tdogg55555 · 01-28-2008, 08:07 PM

I dont think youd have any problem running a good quality synthetic blend. I used Valvoline for years. I think the blend will be fine for the short drives.

1996xj · 01-28-2008, 08:15 PM

I believe syn blend is like 90%conventional mixed with 10% synthetic.
Also if you use an oil filter wrench make sure it doesnt slip and break of you oil pressure sending unit, its just a sensor sticking out right next to the filter with one wire going to it.

tdogg55555 · 01-28-2008, 08:17 PM

Now thats some good advice! yeah, those oil pressure sending units are way to easy to break and definitely in a horrible spot. Im on my second one. You gotta be careful with them things.

lifted92xj · 01-28-2008, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tdogg55555

Ok, that is very far from true. You shouldnt just use any oil. Like with anything you pay for what you get. More expensive oils do have better anti foaming agents along with other agents to help prolong the life of the oil. Better oils will not break down as much as cheap basic oil. If you want to take care of your engine and prolong the life of all the components you should definitely go with a good house name oil. I use Castrol GTX 10w 30 in mine and so far its been great. Filters also matter as well, you may want to get one with an anti drainback valve to prevent "dry starts". As far as synthetic goes, thats your call, with 95k, I wouldnt start on synthetic unless it has been used by the previous owner. But thats your call. You definitely shouldnt use "just any oil". Thats terrible advice.

why dont you go to almost every shop or every dealership and see what kind of oil they use..obviously not any kind meaning viscosity, but any brand will be fine, espically with the 3k incriments since your oil will last longer than that anyways. you think dealers pay for top notch expensive oil when they buy 500 gallons of it? or do you think they buy regular grade oil? when the cheapest walmart oil will easially last 5 if not 10k and you change it at 3 there isnt going to be any problem

tdogg55555 · 01-28-2008, 08:25 PM

Thanks for the info man, but I am a technician at a dealer and we always use the appropriate weight oil, as well as mobil 1 and other quality oils. Dont know how they do it at small local garages or whatever. And funny thing is, the technician beside me JUST last week finished doing an engine on a dodge intrepid because they got there oil at wal mart and decided to drive upwards of 10 k miles on it. IT DOES matter.

itasor · 01-28-2008, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lifted92xj

why dont you go to almost every shop or every dealership and see what kind of oil they use..obviously not any kind meaning viscosity, but any brand will be fine, espically with the 3k incriments since your oil will last longer than that anyways. you think dealers pay for top notch expensive oil when they buy 500 gallons of it? or do you think they buy regular grade oil? when the cheapest walmart oil will easially last 5 if not 10k and you change it at 3 there isnt going to be any problem

My dealer puts regular Quaker State oil in my Jeep and I haven't had an issue with it.

I read that High Mileage oils cause seals to swell reducing the life of them. I don't burn any oil (as far as I can see on the dipstick reading), so maybe I should just pick up some regular Castrol GTX and go with that or Valvoline DuraBlend Synthetic Blend, which is the same as MaxLife only without the High Mileage part (if I read the page correctly).

I don't like unleashing an oil debate since there are tons of others already posted, but I'm someone that is really unsure when they buy this stuff since I don't know a lot about it, and I just want to keep my engine running great as long as possible! I'm starting to think to do that I should keep using what seems to be working...regular, non high mileage, dino oil, like regular Castrol GTX.

1996xj · 01-28-2008, 08:35 PM

Basically any brand oil will do, aslong as you change it when u should. I have heard quite a few ppl on here getting to 300,000mile on generic stuff like walmart supertech oil.

tdogg55555 · 01-28-2008, 08:36 PM

I have no complaints with the regular castrol gtx, around 3000 miles, it usually has not broken down very much and looks just about new. We all want to keep our heeps running as long as possible, thats why you dont go down to the grocery store and buy just "any oil" with a tag on it. I know that the good quality oils will pay off.

1996xj · 01-28-2008, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tdogg55555

Thanks for the info man, but I am a technician at a dealer and we always use the appropriate weight oil, as well as mobil 1 and other quality oils. Dont know how they do it at small local garages or whatever. And funny thing is, the technician beside me JUST last week finished doing an engine on a dodge intrepid because they got there oil at wal mart and decided to drive upwards of 10 k miles on it. IT DOES matter.

Isnt that one of the engines prone to sludging?

88XJSport · 01-28-2008, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1996xj

Isnt that one of the engines prone to sludging?

Yup the 2.7 specifically. My buddy is on his 3rd engine. The 04 sebring has 25k on the body.

Google it if ya want...

Zues Greason · 01-28-2008, 08:41 PM

I would go with Castrol GTX high milage (Green Bottle) that is what I have been using and it works great. I drive mostly Highway and change my oil every 4k. Also, when you get your oil filter off wrench/no wrench or screw stick, I would recommend you put oil in the new filter before you put it on. Also, make sure you put oil on the little seal on the new filter. Don't tighten the filter to tight. just enough to seat the seal. It will be a whole lot easier to get it off when you change it next time. Same thing with the drain plug. Seals are rubber and if you put them on to tight it does nothing for it. If you smoke the drain plug on it will be a B$*ch to get it off. As for filter Good ol FRAM High milage should do just fine, you aren't racing the thing. Lastly, if you only drive a mile or less to work why don't you just ride a bike or something? Have fun.