post #121 of Old 07-09-2008, 05:03 PM
winkosmosis
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Originally Posted by slvrathlon View Post
I've been quoted in between $160 - $250. I just purchased the JB and sourcing a Drive shaft.

This was full install. Removing T-case, SYE, shaft install.
I've scaled back my plans so I will do 2", and hopefully won't need an SYE... But that's good to know the general cost


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post #122 of Old 07-11-2008, 09:28 AM
slvrathlon
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Anyone have any basic measurements on a XJ? Roughly 35"s or so? 97+ drive shaft measurements...

I purchased the JB brand SYE and need to source a DS now
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post #123 of Old 07-19-2008, 01:49 PM
01TJCRAWLER
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anyone know the bolt size that holds the cv joint to the yoke on the t-case. the tom wood drive shaft is threaed to accept the bolts that come thru the yoke. my shaft did not come with bolts so i have been trying to track some down...none of the local hardware stores have the right ones.

there not 8mm 1.0 pitch or 8mm 1.25 pitch and there not std fine or coarse thread.



anyone.....
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post #124 of Old 07-22-2008, 11:56 PM
SmrtJustin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01TJCRAWLER View Post
anyone know the bolt size that holds the cv joint to the yoke on the t-case. the tom wood drive shaft is threaed to accept the bolts that come thru the yoke. my shaft did not come with bolts so i have been trying to track some down...none of the local hardware stores have the right ones.

there not 8mm 1.0 pitch or 8mm 1.25 pitch and there not std fine or coarse thread.



anyone.....
I'd like to know this as well.

1999 Cherokee Classic
Deep Amethyst
60,000 miles

Mods:
Dynomax Cat-back
OME CS035RA Heavy Load Rear Leafs (~3.25")
RE 1334 Front Spacers (~2.5")
P.O.R.C. HD SYE
30x9.5 General Grabber AT2s
B&M SuperCooler 70255 and Temp Guage
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post #125 of Old 07-23-2008, 06:34 AM
mortalenema
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If they are the same as stock they are .312-24x1.170. That's 8mm-24 threads per inch x 30mm.
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post #126 of Old 07-23-2008, 02:41 PM
SmrtJustin
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Where can I get those bolts? I tried buying M8x1.00x30mm, but they don't thread in properly.

EDIT: I think I found them here: http://www.performance offroad center.com/oscommerce/product_info.php?cPath=37_185&products_id=3767 (remove spaces) but its like $13 to ship them

I'd like to find them somewhere else.

EDIT #2: I found the Mopar part #, it's: 6034 966. A dealership should be able to get that, I'll try calling tomorrow.

1999 Cherokee Classic
Deep Amethyst
60,000 miles

Mods:
Dynomax Cat-back
OME CS035RA Heavy Load Rear Leafs (~3.25")
RE 1334 Front Spacers (~2.5")
P.O.R.C. HD SYE
30x9.5 General Grabber AT2s
B&M SuperCooler 70255 and Temp Guage

Last edited by SmrtJustin; 07-23-2008 at 04:31 PM.
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post #127 of Old 08-10-2008, 10:22 PM
Eggdashure
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Ok...this is quite possibly a NOOB question, but I am curious on something.

I have pulled my rear driveshaft off several times to lube it in an effort to correct the "thud" I would here after a stop.

Now then, this is totally hypothetical and just a curiosity question. Could I drill a hole in my skip yoke at stock length and one through the U-Joint flange and basically eliminate the "slip" portion of things. Then attach a front DS to this setup? I'm sure there is a reason for not doing it this way, but I recently pulled a DS off the front of a GC and was noticing how it bolts up...which got me thinking...

I mean is it really necessary to buy an SYE HnT?
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post #128 of Old 08-11-2008, 12:46 AM
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Now then, this is totally hypothetical and just a curiosity question. Could I drill a hole in my skip yoke at stock length and one through the U-Joint flange and basically eliminate the "slip" portion of things. Then attach a front DS to this setup? I'm sure there is a reason for not doing it this way, but I recently pulled a DS off the front of a GC and was noticing how it bolts up...which got me thinking...

I mean is it really necessary to buy an SYE HnT?
This is my take on your question. I think the problem with it is the distance that the joint is from the transfer case. A CV joint ("double cardan") is much heavier than the single cardan joint of your stock driveshaft. Having that weight out that far is a lot of leverage which would amplify any vibrations if not make them much worse. In some cases, the stock output shaft has bent from people not having SYEs. I think in this case due to the weight and leverage it is at more of a risk of bending. You will notice that one thing the hack-n-tap does is shorten the output shaft. A shorter piece of metal is less likely to bend than a longer one.

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post #129 of Old 08-11-2008, 08:14 AM
Eggdashure
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Ok, the weight makes sense. I know that the front DS is meaty. I've never heard of the DS bending though. Being centrifugal I wouldn't think it could...but maybe during some rock crawling with too much pressure? Honestly, I wasn't planning on trying this I was just curious why it isn't an option.
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post #130 of Old 09-28-2008, 05:40 PM
tuesdaysdreams
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i have a 2001 jeep cherokee xj with a rockyroad 2" lift get some vibes and i wanna put on a SYE? does anyone know what transfer case i have? i need to know exactly what cv drivetrain to get also. im a little lost.
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post #131 of Old 09-28-2008, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by tuesdaysdreams View Post
i have a 2001 jeep cherokee xj with a rockyroad 2" lift get some vibes and i wanna put on a SYE? does anyone know what transfer case i have? i need to know exactly what cv drivetrain to get also. im a little lost.
just so you know there is no such thing as a 2001 FSJ Cherokee. It should be 2001 XJ Cherokee. Welcome!

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post #132 of Old 09-28-2008, 08:05 PM
tuesdaysdreams
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i thought when i set up this account that i put in XJ, i guess i hit the FSJ by mistake. thanks for pointing that out.
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post #133 of Old 10-09-2008, 07:59 AM
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I'm in the prosess of installing my hack-n-tap SYE from RE, but can't seem to get it to drill deep enough into the output shaft, without burning up the edges of the drill bit tip. I drilled a pilot hole as per instruction, but not sure if it was a 3/16 bit or not(I do know it was a little smaller than 1/4").

I'm not sure if I should A) go get a cobalt bit(not sure the quallity of the supplied bit), B) try a larger drill/tap/bolt, or C) remove the tailshaft and hit it with a drill press(but I don't know how easy/hard it is to do). Any one have any suggestions?

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***** inches...
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post #134 of Old 10-09-2008, 08:07 AM
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If you were drilling good and then just hit a spot where it won't drill any more, you've completely dulled the drill bit. Get another bit the same diameter, hit the hole w/ some wd-40 or other lubricant, and drill away, should solve the problem. Ran into this when I was drilling out my broken spindle bolts. Got so far and then the drill just stopped going in....switched drill bits and worked great. Going to invest in a good drill sharpener next spring.

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post #135 of Old 10-09-2008, 08:15 AM
RockRodHooligan
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Well I've been making a lot of use of my dads Drill Doctor and a can of PB so far, maybe today will go better after some sleep, I gave up last night about 8:30, too tired to think about it and was getting cranky.
I didn't think about the hard spot in the shaft(like I said, I was tired), gives me some hope though, just try to push though.

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89 MJ: Project: Ground up - Sold
01 XJ: Project: Silverback - Totaled

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***** inches...
Good god man. Indyorv :rofl: d**k and fart jokes. :rofl:
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