The Official SYE (Slip Yoke Eliminator) Thread *All Read* - Page 20 - JeepForum.com

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post #286 of 335 Old 10-17-2013, 10:05 AM
No4x4Yet
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When you say play what part are you referring too? A Out on balance shaft can certainly ruing bearing or CVs. If the output shaft itself id moving you need a new bearing not a shaft most likely.

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post #287 of 335 Old 10-17-2013, 10:26 AM
habbyguy
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The play seems to be between the new driveshaft and the transfer case's output shaft. When I had the shaft out, I tried moving the XC output shaft, and it seemed to be solid as a rock.

FWIW, here is a quick video showing how much play (a LOT) there was in the old shaft (you can hear the "click" between the slip coupling and shaft when I wiggle it):
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post #288 of 335 Old 10-17-2013, 10:30 AM
No4x4Yet
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Hard to see the play in the video with the camera shaking too. I needed a new CV joint on my shaft due to it not being balanced.
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post #289 of 335 Old 10-17-2013, 03:33 PM
jackedupjeep99
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has anybody tried this shaft on any newer xjs 97-01? with 5 inches or over of lift? would really appreciate to know thank you!
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post #290 of 335 Old 11-16-2013, 10:26 AM
Springer45
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Sorry to change the subject, I'm having some issues and I'm not sure if it's a sye issue or a rear end issue. When I did my lift I bought used axles with 4.11 gears. The guy that sold the axles parts out old yjs and was not the original owner of the jeep, so when he said that the rear end had recently been rebuilt I didn't exactly trust him. After I did my 4" lift and replaced the axles and wheels I started hearing a noise. I thought it was the used 33" tires I put on it but a month later I replaced them with some new ones. That wasn't it. Then my auto tranny went out. I had it rebuilt. That wasn't it either. I am eliminating the tcase as the problem as it didn't make noise before. So I think it's either the driveshaft angle (the transmission drop isn't enough enough especially with an auto transmission) or it's the rear end. So I was thinking of doing an experiment, remove the rear driveshaft kick it into 4wd high and drive it at freeway speeds to see if it still makes that noise. My question is would the rear end still make all the normal noises it would with the shaft hooked up? Or is there something with the differential that would be bypassed by not having the shaft hooked up? Is this a good test or would i possibly ruin something? I'm planning on puttin a sye kit and double Cardon shaft in eventually anyways but I've averaged about $1000 a month into this new jeep since I bought it 6mo ago so I don't really want to spend more money on it right now if I don't have to.
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post #291 of 335 Old 11-21-2013, 12:04 PM
No4x4Yet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Springer45 View Post
Sorry to change the subject, I'm having some issues and I'm not sure if it's a sye issue or a rear end issue. When I did my lift I bought used axles with 4.11 gears. The guy that sold the axles parts out old yjs and was not the original owner of the jeep, so when he said that the rear end had recently been rebuilt I didn't exactly trust him. After I did my 4" lift and replaced the axles and wheels I started hearing a noise. I thought it was the used 33" tires I put on it but a month later I replaced them with some new ones. That wasn't it. Then my auto tranny went out. I had it rebuilt. That wasn't it either. I am eliminating the tcase as the problem as it didn't make noise before. So I think it's either the driveshaft angle (the transmission drop isn't enough enough especially with an auto transmission) or it's the rear end. So I was thinking of doing an experiment, remove the rear driveshaft kick it into 4wd high and drive it at freeway speeds to see if it still makes that noise. My question is would the rear end still make all the normal noises it would with the shaft hooked up? Or is there something with the differential that would be bypassed by not having the shaft hooked up? Is this a good test or would i possibly ruin something? I'm planning on puttin a sye kit and double Cardon shaft in eventually anyways but I've averaged about $1000 a month into this new jeep since I bought it 6mo ago so I don't really want to spend more money on it right now if I don't have to.
Do you mean trans case drop? It might be tough to get everything to work at 4". If there is a issue with the axles removing the the DS wont make a difference.

However I would lean to it being the driveshaft angles that are your issue, in which case removing the shaft would eliminate them. With out a SYE and DS you need the trans case output and pinion parallel. See the pics below for clarification. You can Google Pinion Angle for more info.
http://www.hotrodhigh.ca/images/Dollar/PinionAngle.jpg
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post #292 of 335 Old 12-03-2013, 08:39 PM
JeepinChef
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New to forum question about transfer cases?

Hey guys, new to the thread but i was reading this sye write up and was wondering. i was browsing quadratec.com and found this.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/52252_009.htm

Apparently you can now get a np231 transfer case complete for a later model jeep with the 8.25 rearend? how does that go in conjunction with me getting my hands on a 2000 jeep Cherokee sport 4.0 which at this point in time im assuming its the 8.25 rearend with np242 and its automatic. would this product eliminate the need for a hack and tap option or is it not a viable solution for it? is this even a feesible solution aside from how much it costs?

Gettin some research done before i actually go out and buy my first cherokee. And yes i know its expensive.
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post #293 of 335 Old 12-03-2013, 09:36 PM
sAe23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepinChef View Post
[snip]
...with me getting my hands on a 2000 jeep Cherokee sport 4.0 which at this point in time im assuming its the 8.25 rearend with np242 and its automatic. would this product eliminate the need for a hack and tap option or is it not a viable solution for it? is this even a feesible solution aside from how much it costs?

Gettin some research done before i actually go out and buy my first cherokee. And yes i know its expensive.
If you don't want a full time T-case you could get a part time case from a junk yard and install a SYE or do a HnT for a lot cheaper.
(Why don't you want the Full time case??)
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post #294 of 335 Old 12-04-2013, 10:29 AM
No4x4Yet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepinChef View Post
Hey guys, new to the thread but i was reading this sye write up and was wondering. i was browsing quadratec.com and found this.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/52252_009.htm

Apparently you can now get a np231 transfer case complete for a later model jeep with the 8.25 rearend? how does that go in conjunction with me getting my hands on a 2000 jeep Cherokee sport 4.0 which at this point in time im assuming its the 8.25 rearend with np242 and its automatic. would this product eliminate the need for a hack and tap option or is it not a viable solution for it? is this even a feesible solution aside from how much it costs?

Gettin some research done before i actually go out and buy my first cherokee. And yes i know its expensive.
Chances are the Jeep will have a Dana 35. The transcase will still work, it doesnt matter what rear you have, although you may need a different driveshaft end. Why are you looking for new Transfer case anyway? For around $300 you can get a kit and install it yourself.
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post #295 of 335 Old 12-05-2013, 02:47 PM
JeepinChef
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i was just doing some research on the topic of the np242 tcase only (i may be wrong) being able to have a hack and tap as opposed to a full sye granted i wouldnt be really trailing much to my work schedule, but personally i would feel better with a full sye instead of a hack and tap. of course i dont know the logistics of hack and taps failing. when i get a cherokee i plan on putting a 3.5 inch lift on it. trying to get stuff worked out before i just dive right into my next project. i also heard the np231 is stronger?
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post #296 of 335 Old 12-05-2013, 03:10 PM
kgmkgm
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I am ordering one of those Slip CV shafts, and should have it installed soon. I will let you know how it works on mine, as well. 99 XJ w/ NP242/AW4
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post #297 of 335 Old 01-17-2014, 09:40 PM
xj-mike
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I have a 3.5 lift, np231, auto. What can I do to improve?
She is squeaky in the back, is that the leaf springs orrr?
Total newb here:]
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post #298 of 335 Old 02-03-2014, 02:39 PM
indeepwithajeep
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I read through every comment on this thread but still have a few questions I didn't see mentioned. I'm planning on SYE before I do a lift. My Jeep is a 98' with D35 rear axle (w/ abs (read about this changing transfercase output spline count)), AW4 trans, and NP231. With it being a 98' it has a w/electronic speedometer, and will need the SYE with the sensor right? Can I do short SYE and use a front auto drive shaft (91+) while at stock height? That would mean I want the 1310 u-joint style to do this? I'm kind of lost when they mention the spline count with the output shaft on the transfer case. I read about a "proven 32 spline SYE", although I've also read about 21, 23, and 27 spline transfer cases. Should I bother replacing the chain if everything looks to be in great shape? When is the wide chain kit necessary? I'm thinking about just picking up a used transfer case and doing a rebuild so it's a quick swap. However I wasn't sure if I needed to get one for 29 spline axle jeep, or do I need to know what spline count the output shaft is on the transfercase is?

JBconversions seem to be the best SYE on the market. Is this without a doubt the best option? Or should I just save a little bit of money and get the short IRO one? I'm planing on a 4.5" lift in the future with 32x11.5", but I want to leave room to go bigger in the future.
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post #299 of 335 Old 02-14-2014, 07:46 PM
jeepxjadam
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Someone help me out here. I'm still a little confused on the parts list I need to do a hack n tap sye.
Here's what i'm working with, 99 XJ with an NP242 t case and a C8.25 sitting at about 4 inches of lift.

Can I just use the Rubicon express hack n tap(or the one from IRO?) and a front drive shaft from an XJ? Or do I need something else that I missed?

Thanks in advance

1999 XJ Sport
3" RC coils, 2'' coil spacer, 4'' Procomp leafs, 4* shims, Rusty's LCA's
Rubicon Express trac-bar, IRO t case drop, homebrew bumpers, reciever hitch, Riddler front and rear diff covers,
Warn t-case skid, M.O.R.E steering box brace, D-Windows, 33x10.5 KM2's
cut and folded rear, flare relocation up front
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post #300 of 335 Old 03-13-2014, 07:35 PM
99cherokee97tj
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What driveshaft for manual transmission?

I have a 99 xj 4 liter 5 speed manual with 231 case, 4.5 inches of lift and an 8.25 rear. Currently running a transfer case drop which I want to get rid of.

I want to run the RE1807 h and t with a donor driveshaft to save some money.

Can I use the front shaft from the 91 or newer 4 liter auto cherokee for my application?

Also, what bolts should I use to attach the spicer adapter to the re flange?

I read through everything but am not sure. My manual trans is shorter than an auto, correct?
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