The Official SYE (Slip Yoke Eliminator) Thread *All Read* - Page 17 - JeepForum.com

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post #241 of 335 Old 11-13-2012, 05:51 PM
1990JEEPXJ
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Nope. Only Tom woods, which is a hack n tap anyway.


Completely stock, and keeping it that way...

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11) Thou shalt love, cherish, and honor till death, thine square headlights above all other earthy things sayith the Lord.
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post #242 of 335 Old 11-14-2012, 07:05 AM
tycloud
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Okay now Iím good and confused can you please explain why itís a hack and tap? They look different to me.
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post #243 of 335 Old 05-09-2013, 08:05 PM
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Ok, I am doing a homebrew lift expecting to have 3-3.5" of lift, I presumably have the worst set up, a '98 4.0 auto with np242 and 8.25. What I could not find in the thread was if I use an front DS from a manual xj and a HnT SYE would this solve the length problem.

Also I would probably be shimming the axle 4*
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post #244 of 335 Old 05-19-2013, 05:50 PM
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I have a 1998 TJ 2.5 on a 6" lift with 35" tires,
can I install a slip yoke eliminator?
I was told I could not on a 2.5
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post #245 of 335 Old 05-19-2013, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nostalgia
I have a 1998 TJ 2.5 on a 6" lift with 35" tires,
can I install a slip yoke eliminator?
I was told I could not on a 2.5
Hahaha you can. Whoever told you that is an idiot. Just find the right SYE for your T-Case like

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrai...FeLm7AodplwAxQ

That thing must have alot of vibes at 6" with no SYE.... Yikes. Make sure you get a CV shaft with it, you can eliminate what I'm assuming you have which is a t-case drop.

Like my GrandPappy said, only way to learn is to do it yourself. Even if you break some things along the way.
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post #246 of 335 Old 05-22-2013, 05:12 PM
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I just recently bought a 99 xj with a 5.5in rubicon express lift, 4.0l,and auto trans and I am going to install a SYE and I didn't know if I had to shim the axle. If so does any body know how much, and where to get the shims from?
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post #247 of 335 Old 05-22-2013, 05:32 PM
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You definitely need to shim the axle. You need the axle output inline with driveshaft. I used 4 degree shims at 4.5". youll need at least that. Get quality shims with a flat section machined in for the center pin to sit flat. I found some on amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Warrior-Produc...=4+degree+shim
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post #248 of 335 Old 05-22-2013, 05:51 PM
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Ok thanks man
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post #249 of 335 Old 05-22-2013, 06:06 PM
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no problem just did this myself. still trying to track vibes though. get yourself some new bolts for the center pin too. I used some allen head bolts so theres somthing to grab and torque it down with.
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post #250 of 335 Old 05-22-2013, 06:14 PM
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Which SYE did you use?
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post #251 of 335 Old 05-22-2013, 06:38 PM
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Rugged Ridge. Are you doin a SYE or hack-n-tap?
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post #252 of 335 Old 05-22-2013, 06:44 PM
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I was planning on doing the actual SYE.
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post #253 of 335 Old 05-22-2013, 08:05 PM
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nice
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post #254 of 335 Old 08-27-2013, 07:07 PM
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OK... read through this and several others, and think I "get it"... the difference, advantages and disadvantages of SYE vs. HnT.

Then I see this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/250832072719...S:1123&vxp=mtr

Looks like a simpler way out - no disassembling and fiddling with the transfer case, no drilling yokes and modifying front driveshafts... just measure, order, install.

Can anyone tell me why this design won't work? The only possible disadvantage I can see is that the driveshaft is going to be a little shorter than a true SYE system driveshaft, but since I'm running a five-speed, I've already got a longer driveshaft to start with (so I'm guessing my "slip yoke double cardigan driveshaft" will be about the same as most SYE shafts with an automatic.

Am I missing anything else?
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post #255 of 335 Old 08-28-2013, 05:06 AM
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It'll eliminate vibration thanks to the double cardan joint, but the yoke can still slip out of the t-case completely if the rear axle droops enough. Also, if you break a u-joint and have to pull the shaft (with the intention of using FWD for a while to get back to civilization,) ATF fluid will leak out of the case as opposed to a fixed-yoke SYE system where the output shaft stays in place and keeps it a sealed unit.

The yoke shouldn't be a worry if you don't drive on trails that feature a lot of articulation, but it doesn't take much to toss a u-joint (and/or bend the ears on the yoke in the process.)
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