Nut and bolt material - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 8 Old 03-12-2017, 07:06 AM Thread Starter
dented
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Nut and bolt material

In general what nuts and bolts should we be putting in our vehicles?

I broke a bolt on my valve cover so I went to Lowes and bought the correct size. I think its galvanized steel.

I had to remove my a bolt from my shock and it was so soft the nut and bolt stripped right away.

What is best?

What should be avoided?

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post #2 of 8 Old 03-12-2017, 08:25 AM
desbennett004
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Bolts usually have a number stamped on their heads if they are any good. Grade 5 is a good general purpose grade. Grade 8 is pretty heavy duty, and Grade 10 is what you would use on suspension parts, like leaf spring anchor bolts.

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post #3 of 8 Old 03-12-2017, 11:05 AM
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Grade 8 on the SAE- grade bolts is certainly good enough for anyhthing on the suspension parts. Grade 5 for most other stuff

If you are using metric, ISO class 10.9 us what ypu would use on suspension/ brake parts. Class 8.8 for most other stuff.

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post #4 of 8 Old 03-12-2017, 05:02 PM
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Grade addresses strength issues. Corrosion needs sometimes be considered as well. Galvinized is helpful but since it the zinc may be thick, finish is not so good. Stainless is good, especially if you're going into a stainless nut. Stainless into carbon steel or iron does not work as well because corrosion can spread from the steel part.

Anti seize compound is usually a good choice.

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post #5 of 8 Old 03-13-2017, 05:35 AM
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Generally, there really are no reasons to use stainless steel mounting hardware on vehicles - not even if vehicle is used on area where road salt is spread extensively. High quality galvanized/ zink passivated bolts, nuts & washers, and high quality anti-seize or grease is all you really need in most cases.

Stainless steel hardware needs to be used in highly corrosive environments, like sea water, or when the mounting hardware or parts need very high anti-corrosion properties for other reasons.

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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #6 of 8 Old 03-14-2017, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you
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post #7 of 8 Old 03-15-2017, 12:15 AM
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If you go for stainless steel, use gr 316 bolts and 304 nuts and isolate from any carbon steel. The different hardnesses will prevent galling. Yes, even stainless has nasty tricks and the additional cost is not worth paying

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post #8 of 8 Old 03-17-2017, 07:17 PM
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As has already been said, stainless should be avoided unless there is a real need for corrosion resistance, or for extremely high temperature applications (however, NOT recommended for exhaust manifold applications, due to strength and galling issues). The stainless steel bolts that you commonly find in places like hardware stores are actually mechanically only a tiny bit stronger than a standard grade 2 bolt.

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