Noise - Torque Converter bolts loose! - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 06-15-2005, 06:03 AM Thread Starter
4wheeldrift
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Talking Noise - Torque Converter bolts loose!

Got some *really* good news yesterday. Took my 91 XJ in for what I was sure was going to be a $2000 problem. Loud tapping/knock noise coming from the oil pan area. I was certain it was a crank bearing and that the motor was going to need major work.

SURPRISE!

Dealer:
I understand you are expecting bad news, are you sitting down?

Me:
Yeah, how much is replacing the bearing gonna cost? I have to decide if its worth doing or just buy another XJ

Dealer:
Not sure about the bearing cost, I could get you an estimate, but tightening the torque converter bolts will set you back $88

Me:
What kind of beer do you drink?


Whew!


mike

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post #2 of 14 Old 06-15-2005, 10:29 AM
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88 bucks?Im sure your glad to have found out it wasnt the engine,But 88 bucks to tighten some bolts is insane.Im thinking there probably 9/16's and there are 4 of them but if you cant do it yourself I imagine the 88 bucks is well spent.just hate seeing people get burned

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post #3 of 14 Old 06-15-2005, 11:04 AM
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yeah glad to hear it wasnt a major issue, but $88 for tightening some bolts is not something I would be buying the guy beer for. just my .02

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post #4 of 14 Old 06-15-2005, 05:14 PM
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$88 compared to 2G is good, paying $88 to get four bolts tightened is bad. But even worse is the good possibility that you elongated the flex plate holes where the torque converter is bolted to it. I did this in my '85 Chevy pickup and got to replace the TC and the flex plate a week or so later when the bolts loosened back up again. Usually, once these get loose, it's a bigger issue. I hope not in your case, and I drink Pete's Wicked Ale.

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post #5 of 14 Old 06-15-2005, 05:40 PM
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-----------------------------------------------
that you elongated the flex plate holes where the torque converter is bolted to it.
-----------------------------------------------
Yes, that does happen if all the bolts come loss or if it's beat on hard when some of them are loss.
But a !!!GOOD!!! mic will check for that. Also he will check for a badly bent flex plate. He or she will check the engine to trany bolts the engine and trany mounts. It's not uncommon to find more then one thing come loss. Beside replace all the converter bolts using a little blue on them too. That's what cost you 88 bucks.
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post #6 of 14 Old 06-15-2005, 05:48 PM
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Yes, those bolts should have some Loc-Tite on them, retightening will just allow them to vibrate loose again. My question is going to be...why did they come loose in the first place? Was transmission work done recently?

You're not paying $88 just for tightening the bolts down. You're paying diagnostic labor to figure out what the hell the noise was.

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post #7 of 14 Old 06-15-2005, 06:07 PM
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I was getting a weird tapping noise form the lower end of my engine and we came to the same conclusion that is was a main or rod bearing. So we started taking apart the motor and when it came time to take out the torque converter bolts out they were all finger tight. My friend figures that that might of been the noise. The motor is out and taken apart and we could not find anything that would cause noise in the block. 330,000 kms on the engine, Leaks oil like crazy, rear main, vavle cover, and other places(probably).
Did your engine tap or make noise when you would just tap the gas? thats what mine did. I am rebuilding the engine any way seeing its out.
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post #8 of 14 Old 06-15-2005, 06:09 PM
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I also lost oil pressure thats what else made us think rod or main bearings.
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post #9 of 14 Old 06-15-2005, 06:37 PM
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i tightened my torque converter bolts the other last month and about a week later the sound was back...so the secret to preventing that is loc-tite eh?...hmmmm...i may have to give that a shot when i put in my tranny cooler...

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post #10 of 14 Old 06-16-2005, 08:12 AM
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Sorry for the repeat. Were did I put my soap box. New bolts!!!!!!!!!! Many times the threads of the old bolts that become loss become worn. The bolts them self that don't come loss are over stressed. The shank of the bolts can be grooved or worn.
Also some trany use a shoulder shank bolt. They need to be replaced with same. Sorry but it's a dealer thing. I am now getting off my soap box. luck
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post #11 of 14 Old 06-16-2005, 08:17 AM
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where exactly are the torque converter bolts? are they easily accesable without having to remove anything major? (tranny, etc)

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post #12 of 14 Old 06-16-2005, 04:42 PM
dschio
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This is a pretty common problem on the Cherokee, and there are a few threads on this message board about it already. I had the same problem. I tightned the bolts myself, but it is a pain because you have to remove an access cover to get at the torque converter bolts. And to do that you have to take off the exhaust so that you can get to one of the access cover bolts.

I would have gladly paid $88 to have someone else do it.

DS
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post #13 of 14 Old 06-16-2005, 05:02 PM
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yeah...i had the exhaust problem with mine too...when i put the plate back on i made sure that the bolts went back on the "right" way...

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post #14 of 14 Old 06-16-2005, 08:54 PM
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Do you really have to take the exhaust off? I have a tapping noise that I just assumed was rod-knock or whatnot.. but I think next week I'm going to take that access cover off and tighten the bolts!

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