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Unread 10-27-2013, 11:12 AM   #1
p2y2r7o
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No Start - replaced alt, battery good

My alternator died the other day, so I replaced it (reman from napa) and called it a day. Of course it wasn't that easy though and I still can't get the jeep to start. The battery has been tested and it's good. There is fuel at the rail. I checked all fuses and swapped the starter relay with another to see if that would work. The starter is no more, or not much more than a year old...could that possibly have gone out again?

As of now when I try to start it it will crank, but gets slower and slower until it starts draining my battery, and then what I think is either the alt or starter will begin clicking. Same thing if I try to jump it from another car, minus the clicking.

Any suggestions? Anything else I can do before removing the starter to have it tested? Am I looking in all the wrong places? Ahhhhh this is frustrating.

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Unread 10-27-2013, 11:35 AM   #2
79chiefs
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Try a ground refresh. Definitely have the starter tested if that does not help.
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Unread 10-27-2013, 12:07 PM   #3
p2y2r7o
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By that do you mean clean up ground connections/replace if need be? Not familiar with a "ground refresh" so pardon my ignorance!
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Unread 10-27-2013, 12:17 PM   #4
CJ7-Tim
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Test the starter. Just because the starter, alternator, or battery is newer, does not mean it is good.

The power and ground wire needs to be free of corrosion, clean, and firmly connected. Inspect/check/clean battery and starter wires as needed.


Clicking and not starting is usually a low voltage issue from:

• leaving the lights on
• a failing battery
• a failing alternator
dirty, corroded, or loose wire connections
internally corroded battery wires


Perform routine maintenance of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, andfirmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, andalternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables or connectors and replace asneeded. Copper wires should be copper color, not black or green. Do the samefor the grounding wires from the starter to engine block, the ground wires atthe coil, and the ground wires from the battery and engine to the Jeep'sframe/body. You must remove, wire brush, and clean until shiny the cable/wireends and whatever they bolt to.

Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage, bad connections, or poorgrounds.

Place your DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Multi-Meter) on the 20 volt scale. Firstcheck battery voltage by placing your multi-meter's positive lead on thebattery's positive post ( the actual post, not the clamp ) and the negativelead on the negative post. You need a minimum of 12 volts to continue testing.Next, leave your meter connected and take a reading while the engine iscranking. Record this voltage reading. Now connect your positive lead to thebattery terminal stud on the starter and the negative lead to the starterhousing. Again, crank the engine and record the voltage reading. If the voltagereading at the starter is not within 1 volt of battery voltage then you haveexcessive voltage drop in the starter circuit.

Typical voltage drop maximums:

• starter circuit (including starter solenoid) = 0.60 volt
• battery post to battery terminal end = zero volts
• battery main cable (measured end to end) 0.20 volt
• starter solenoid = 0.20 volt
• battery negative post to alternator metal frame = 0.20 volt
• negative main cable to engine block = 0.20 volt
• negative battery post to starter metal frame = 0.30
• battery positive post to alternator b+stud = 0.5 volt with maximum chargingload applied (all accessories turned on)

Test the output at the alternator with your volts/ohms multi-meter. You shouldbe measuring 13.8-14.4 volts. Load testing the alternator is still recommended.

Have your helper turn the ignition key to START while you tap on the starterwith a hammer. If the engine starts, you probably need a new starter.

Have the battery, starter, and the alternator Load Tested for proper functionin a test machine that applies a simulated work load. Handheld testers areinaccurate and will often pass faulty parts.
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Unread 10-27-2013, 05:08 PM   #5
p2y2r7o
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Had the starter and the new (reman) alternator tested, both tested "PASS". Great. I was hoping for the opposite honestly. I checked electrical connections for any corrosion/damage...no problems that I can see. Checked for any voltage problems as CJ7-Tim suggested and everything seems normal. The guy at Auto Zone mentioned that the original alternator could have taken something else out with it, and he suggested that it could be the computer. I don't know what to think about that...don't know much about the computer. Any other suggestions before I have it towed a second time to a shop?
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Unread 10-27-2013, 08:17 PM   #6
CJ7-Tim
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Computer failure is very highly unlikely and should only be considered after all the normal and usual Cherokee failures have been tested and proven to not be the cause.

If, as you have described, the starter slows and begins to click, I would have the battery removed and Load Tested. A load test applies an actual work load and very closely simulates real-time usage. Handheld testers are not very accurate and will often pass marginal parts. A weak alternator can stress an older battery and cause it to fail.
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Unread 10-29-2013, 09:02 PM   #7
p2y2r7o
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UPDATE

I did have the battery tested at an auto store, tested okay. So I just finished replacing the CPS and the ignition coil. Good news, i got it started. Bad news is that it immediately dies if i let off the gas. It also runs pretty rough and is letting out some strong exhaust fumes.
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Unread 10-29-2013, 09:05 PM   #8
79chiefs
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What about the TPS, or MAP. Unplug the vacuum from the MAP and start. If it starts replace it, and you can do a voltage test, but as i noticed before it is not always conclusive. Test the TPS too.
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Unread 10-29-2013, 09:22 PM   #9
CJ7-Tim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p2y2r7o View Post
UPDATE

...got it started. Bad news is that it immediately dies if i let off the gas. It also runs pretty rough.
Carefully feather the gas and brake, and go for a drive. After about 3-7 minutes, the idle should steady and return to normal. Low battery voltage or prolonged battery disconnect will reboot the engine computer and delete the idle settings.
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Unread 10-29-2013, 10:12 PM   #10
p2y2r7o
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Okay guys, all of you...thank you so much. I did pull that vacuum line and it fired up and ran for a minute or so before I cut it off. Re-connected the vacuum line, fired up again. I let it run for a few minutes and the tailpipe spit out some gas...guess I flooded it earlier? Anyways, where that vacuum line connected to just under the sensor seemed kinda gunked up. Is there a good way to clean that out? Also, there seems to be somewhat of a clicking sound coming from that general area. Don't believe that was there before but I'm not 100% sure.

Soon i'm going to replace these sensors with new mopar/oem ones. This is the second time I've had to replace the CPS, and while I don't think the ignition coil was bad, was also the second time I've replaced that. Wouldn't mind putting new TPS and MAP sensors in as well for peace of mind.

Going for a short ride....
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