newbie with 93xj
Well I couldn't pass it up. I recently picked up a 93xj sport with a 4.0 ax4 lifted,,4inches I think,, running 32's on factory rims. Got the truck for a grand, they thought it needed a tranny but a TPS took care of it. Changed the oil sender, pressure is 40. Put in a radiator, hoses, belts, and did the water pump while I was in there. The truck has 120000 on it and runs strong, not using a drop of oil. I have to do the front wheel bearing unit, the previous owners ran it in mud bogs all last fall so it doesn't surprize me.
My concern now is the lift and the driveshafts/angle. The front shaft was blown, had a shop put a good knuckle on the top end and I put it back in. Four wheel works but I am getting vibs. I started reading about the problems with the rear shafts as well. It has the one piece shaft in the back. Do I need a knuckle in the back as well? And how do I adjust the angle at the diff ends? The front can be adjusted with the lower suspension arm shims right? How do you do the back? It has a Dana 30 and a Chrysler 8.25, with a np231 diff.
Also how do I determine what these guys put in for lift? It has an added leaf in the back, must be new springs up front along with non factory lower suspension arms and a dropped pitman arm, and they got rid of the front stabilizer. And they dropped the diff. I love these Cherokees. They are strong and easy to work on. I want to get this road worthy for 500 plus mile trips up north.
if it's sporting 4 inches of lift you are in a mysterious my driveshaft either makes horrible noises height, or is running like a stocker (soundless and perfect).
it's really hit or miss when you lift one of these. i suggest using degree shims to align the pinion angle (rustys offroad sells them) and get the driveshaft a bit shorter. or in a pinch drop the transfer case. and if you've got the cash SYE it.
this is a mid milage cherokee and while they thought the tranny had a shelflife it should give you years of faithful service.
you mentioned the front hub being shot. get something with a warantee and torque it to spec. you won't regret it. (i think it's 170ft pounds, i did mine to 150 and it's ran better than the hubs i didn't torque)
I'll check out Rusty's. If what I read in a recent post is true, 23 inches from center of wheeel to line above flares is true, mine has more like 5 and a half inches of lift. But how do I determine what they used for parts to lift it?
Keep in mind that shims don't actually corrcet the angles on a slip yoke driveshaft. Those require the pinion yoke and the slip yoke to run parallel with eachother. It will lessen the degree of vibes, but it will not correct the problem. Either will a longer slip yoke style DS.
On a CV style driveshaft the shims are required sense those do have to have the pinion pointing at the TC yoke.
You more than like are getting vibes as well as the slip yoke contacting the ears of the driveshaft itself. This will shorten the life of the Ujoints. You can run several combos of Slip yokes eleminators. Hack-n-tap, 32 spline output shaft, or stock spline output shaft. the PORC HD SYE usually sells for and ships for around $180.
You can run a stock front DS from another auto equipped/Np231 equipped Xj along with the above mentioned SYE kits for a cheap CV driveshaft. You could also order one from SEVERAL makers or a local shop.
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