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Unread 01-04-2014, 09:50 PM   #1
stedic
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1992 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Banff, Alberta
Posts: 18
New Jeep, plenty of issues

Hello, My name is Steve and I'm new to these forums.

I've just purchased my first jeep for $800. I think it's a great deal, runs good with minor issues, hoping some kind soul(s) will help me out with them. However, I'm not a mechanic, I don't have a 1992 service manual (yet) and I don't understand where to look for things like a heat core. I'm gonna need some guidance.

It's a 1992 Cherokee Laredo. 4L V6 5sp Manual model. Good shape, not sure how many previous owners, nor how care was given to this vehicle. There is a 2" lift kit previously installed. 345,000km on the ODO.

On with the issues.

1) Driver seat is busted, it's basically a rocking chair. I haven't looked at the seat frame and I don't know what to weld. Does anyone have any photos they can lend? What sort of welding tool should I use? I don't want to make a trip to pick-a-part. It's 120km away.

2) My Heater blows softly on the highest setting. I can feel a bit of warmth, but nothing that is going to de-thaw my frozen fingers and toes. I read somewhere on forum about pulling hoses out of the heater core and flushing the top line with a garden hose worth of water pressure for at least 5 minutes letting the bottom line drain out?

So taking it to the car wash and using the high pressure wand is a no? What sort of equipment would I need to disassemble and reassemble the hose out of the heater core. Does anyone have any photo of an engine with all it's parts outlined? I can't find one on google.

4)4WD drive fails to stay engaged. On the way home I tried my 4WD. I pull lever back to 4WD position and it holds. It works for about 3 minutes then trips back over into 2WD. Is there a nut that needs to be tightened? Can I do that from underneath the Jeep?

5) Parking Brake missing lever button. Not a big deal, but it's nice to have that brake working. Not sure if a missing lever button is enough to keep it from passing inspection.

6) Battery died suddenly. I pulled into Canadian Tire before coming home. I bought some headlights, I didn't need them. But I wanted to give my girl a welcome home gift. When I jumped back and turned the key. Then engine turned once and then started the battery clickkkkkkkkkk. I had to go back into the store and get them to help me boost it. This worked, but also leads into my next issue.

7) I noticed that my clutch has a mind of it's own. As my trip home continued, I noticed more and more issues. Like, not wanting to jump into 1st or 2nd. But 3rd, 4th and 5th were ok. Then All of the sudden it had no problems finding 1st an 2nd, but it could not find 5th to save itself. Now I'm ok with this, just as long as someone can tell me whats going on. I thought for some reason it might have something to do with electrical... because it was progressively worse all the way to canadian tire. When they boosted my, all of the sudden it all worked extremely well... Does this sound as odd to you as it does to me?

Minor issues:
- Back Wiper is broken off, looks like whole unit needs to be replaced. Where can I find, not just the wiper, but the component that pushes the wiper back and forth?
- Glass on Windshield is cracked in a few places.
- Dent on passenger side door.
- Minor Rust patches
- Left turn signal light case is busted, where do I find one of those online?
- Looks like a hole in my muffler. Anyone know what tools I need to replace a muffler?

I also don't know how to perform a flush, even though that's exactly what I should do tomorrow. Is there a step by step guide I should follow? Do I need taking this to a mechanic?

You also don't need to address all the issues. If you can contribute some information, than some is better than none.

Thanks in advance,

Steve


Last edited by stedic; 01-04-2014 at 10:04 PM..
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Unread 01-05-2014, 07:33 AM   #2
ECL
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1998 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Easton, Pennsylvania
Posts: 267
Welcome to Jeep world...and that's quite a laundry list of things to tinker with. Here are some thoughts.

1)Broken seat - pretty hard to diagnose without seeing where the break is. Suggest you pull the seat out. My 98 only has 4 bolts holding it in BUT be prepared for broken bolts. For me, the left rear bolt was rusted in place (it goes thru the floorboard leaving the threads below exposed to the elements). Once the seat is out, take it a local shop to weld. Heck, someone at Canadian Tire might be able to either weld it in the shop for a little lunch money or know someone who can.
As for broken bolts, I fixed mine by grinding it off (from the bottom - to avoid sparks on the carpet), drilling thru it (from the top - just easier) and using a bolt, fender washer (big diameter) and a nylon insert nut from the hardware store.
2) Heater - blowing " softly"? Not sure what this means. If the blower isn't running at full speed,then you have to chase that issue. Dying blower, damper not opening, blockage some where (squirrel or mouse nest) - that sort of thing. If it's not hot, it can be a plugged core, broken heater control valve OR the blend damper not working. Start by checking the heater hoses. Withe engine running and up to operating temperature, are both hoses hot or just one?. To flush the core, if you think that's it, disconnect the hoses and blow thru with a garden hose. To get really fancy, you can rig up a little wand out of copper tubing and stick it into the core outlet and try to "pressure wash" backwards with the garden hose. Used to help my old Buick...
6) battery - sounds like its time for a new one.
7) clutch - with 345k on the clock, it could be a number of things but I'd start by bleeding the clutch hydraulics. It's similar to bleeding brakes. I'd also treat the transmission to a fluid change. Canadian Tire should be able to do both of these fairly cheap and you won't have to lay on your back on the snowy ground!
Turn signal lens should be available on eBay.
Muffler is a hassle to do by itself - the inlet and outlet joints are likely nice and rusty. Easier (but admittedly more expensive) to replace "cat back". Take a look at the system. There should be a flange at the end of the catalytic converter. Unbolt there and replace everything from there back. Note sometimes the flange is in front of the cat. If so, you'll have to weigh the cost of replacing the cat too. As for tools, hopefully you have a set of ramps to back up on to give yourself some working room underneath. A grinder with a cut off wheel and a Sawzall with a metal blade make removing the old parts quicker.
Good luck and stay warm up there!
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Unread 01-05-2014, 08:36 AM   #3
holysirsalad
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Location: Kingston, ON
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Wow that is quite the list... Agreed on most of the above. Unfortunately Canadian Tire doesn't really have any fluids for this transmission in stock, if you have a NAPA near by give them a call and ask about Redline MT-90. The spec on our transmissions is about 25 years old and the type of fluid we use is no longer in vogue, leaving specialty oils.

4WD shifter problems are not unheard of. Indeed there is a trunion nut underneath that needs to be tightened. You can search Google for "NP231 shift linkage adjustment" for a step-by-step if you like.

In addition to dead batteries the cables are vert important. Give them a good inspection. Poor cables will causing lack of charging, poor starting, and sometimes running problems. What happens most frequently is that corrosion works its way along the wire under the insulation and kills the cable's capacity.

Broken e-brake will certainly fail a safety inspection.

Are you missing the rear wiper arm or the bit rhat sticks out from the hatch? Believe it or not some XJs were sold without 'em... In either case your best bet is unfortunately a junk yard.


Finally, don't worry! There are illustrated writeups for almost everything you want to do, if not here, on other forums as well! Take a look around and you'll see them. As far as manuals go, apparently on eBay someone's selling fully licensed Factory Service Manuals on CD. Haynes looks like a used sheet of Charmin in comparison.
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Unread 01-05-2014, 10:41 AM   #4
stedic
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1992 XJ Cherokee 
 
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Thanks for the feedback guys.

So after inspection... The seat appears to be missing all it's bolts, but none look broken or busted, almost no rust, the chair is firmly mounted to the floor, the seat is separated where the seat meets the back. There was a spring on the floor that looks like it was connected to the seat.

I *believe* the 4wd trips because of the tires. After inspection I see that the tires are missmatched, different tires on different axles, different rims. I hear that it automatically trips if the wheels are not properly balanced or mismatched.

Does anyone know what the heat core looks like so I know what exactly i should pull? Do I need tools to pull it? Any photos?

I'm going to get a battery today, forgot to plug it in last night, how long do I have to wait before I trying turning the key again once I plug it in?

The back rear wiper arm is broke off lol. I'll see if I can find an arm in the Junk Yard in Red Deer.

Thanks for your feedback!
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Unread 01-05-2014, 10:57 AM   #5
CCKen
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Concerning the broken seat, here area few pics showing damge and repair.

My seat may have been worse than yours but the only way to find out is to remove the seat from the vehicle and pull the covers off and examine the structure.

My seat structure was pretty well cracked and twisted. I had to twist the framework back into position and hold it in place with vicegrips while I drilled and pop riveted it back into place. I had a friend weld up the cracks (no photos of the welds).











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Unread 01-05-2014, 11:01 AM   #6
stedic
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Where is this located?

Reference link -> http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1h/bl566h.htm
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Unread 01-05-2014, 11:08 AM   #7
stedic
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Wow your seat is different, I should go out and take pictures of my seat. Basically where you welded and riveted that bar, I have an angle iron with multiple holes. While I can't see up under the backing of the chair, I imagine I'll find a number of rusted, bent and broken bolts with bent or broken washers. Once I figure out how to get the jeep started. I'm going to go and park it in the Canadian Tire underground garage and figure this out..
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Unread 01-05-2014, 11:49 AM   #8
stedic
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and now the latch to the hood is frozen.... is there another manual way to open the hood?
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Unread 01-05-2014, 02:24 PM   #9
ECL
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Location: Easton, Pennsylvania
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Stuck latch is a real pain. On +97 front ends at least, there's really not a good way to get to latch under the hood from the outside. When my cable handle broke, I gave up trying to get in from the outside and focused on using the cable to release. I took off the kick panel and clamped a pair of Vise-grips on the stub and pulled until the hood finally popped.
Try pulling the release while someone else is smacking their fists on the hood by the latches. On the +97 at least, there are 2 latches - one on each front corner, behind the headlights. Might just jar the latch enough to pop.
And certainly once you do get it open clean it all up and grease the h*** out of it to prevent future problems.
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Unread 01-05-2014, 05:02 PM   #10
BlueRidgeMark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stedic View Post
I've just purchased my first jeep for $800. I think it's a great deal, runs good with minor issues,

That's a steal!

Quote:
Originally Posted by stedic View Post
I'm not a mechanic, I don't have a 1992 service manual (yet) and I don't understand where to look for things like a heat core. I'm gonna need some guidance.
Okay, let's start with this. It's a heater core, not a "heat core".



Quote:
Originally Posted by stedic View Post
2) My Heater blows softly on the highest setting.
You're going to have to distinguish for us whether you mean it doesn't move much air, or it's not very hot. Or both?


Quote:
Originally Posted by stedic View Post
I can feel a bit of warmth, but nothing that is going to de-thaw my frozen fingers and toes. I read somewhere on forum about pulling hoses out of the heater core and flushing the top line with a garden hose worth of water pressure for at least 5 minutes letting the bottom line drain out?

So taking it to the car wash and using the high pressure wand is a no? What sort of equipment would I need to disassemble and reassemble the hose out of the heater core.
No high pressure needed or wanted. That can cause Bad Things To Happen.


Quote:
Originally Posted by stedic View Post
6) Battery died suddenly. I pulled into Canadian Tire before coming home. I bought some headlights, I didn't need them. But I wanted to give my girl a welcome home gift. When I jumped back and turned the key. Then engine turned once and then started the battery clickkkkkkkkkk. I had to go back into the store and get them to help me boost it.
Down here we can take batteries to several parts stores and have them load tested. If you have that option available to you, do it.

It wouldn't be surprising if you need a new battery. There are plenty of threads on here about battery recommendations.


Quote:
Originally Posted by stedic View Post
- Glass on Windshield is cracked in a few places.
That's a job best left to a pro, in my opinion.


Quote:
Originally Posted by stedic View Post
- Left turn signal light case is busted, where do I find one of those online?
Ebay is your friend.


Quote:
Originally Posted by stedic View Post
- Looks like a hole in my muffler. Anyone know what tools I need to replace a muffler?
Iron plated knuckles!

There Will Be Rust. If you have to tackle any rusted nuts or bolts on an exhaust system, expect a fight. You'll need to be generous with some penetrating oil. That is NOT WD-40. It's a good product, but it's not made for that purpose. Us PB Blaster, or better yet, Kroil. Let it soak overnight.

If you have an air compressor available, it will make exhaust work much less exhausting. An air chisel will take care of rusted exhaust parts in short order. Very nice!

Quote:
Originally Posted by stedic View Post
I also don't know how to perform a flush, even though that's exactly what I should do tomorrow. Is there a step by step guide I should follow? Do I need taking this to a mechanic?
Basic hand tools. Nothing special. No mechanic needed.

If you are planning on Jeeping, you have two (three) choices. Either learn to wrench it yourself, or have lots of $$$. The reality is that almost everyone will go a middle road and do basic stuff yourself, and leave the more complicated stuff to a pro. There's a spectrum of difficulty, from simple stuff like changing your oil on one end, to things like extensive bodywork or rebuilding a transmission on the other end. (Then there's custom fabrication, but let's not go there for now.) Everybody has to find his own level.

Flushing your heater core is pretty low on the difficulty scale. Pop a few hoses, drain some fluid, run some water... Simple stuff.
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Unread 01-05-2014, 05:50 PM   #11
holysirsalad
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Location: Kingston, ON
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stedic View Post
I *believe* the 4wd trips because of the tires. After inspection I see that the tires are missmatched, different tires on different axles, different rims. I hear that it automatically trips if the wheels are not properly balanced or mismatched.
Nope, it'll cause all kinds of problems and some things might break but it shouldn't cause it to "pop out" in a normally functioning system. Definitely get the tire situation taken care of but look at the linkage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stedic View Post
I'm going to get a battery today, forgot to plug it in last night, how long do I have to wait before I trying turning the key again once I plug it in?
With a new battery? As long as it takes you to get into the driver's seat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stedic View Post
The back rear wiper arm is broke off lol. I'll see if I can find an arm in the Junk Yard in Red Deer.
That's not so bad then. Probably was un-bolted. There really are no junkyards in Banff? Ouch!

Quote:
Originally Posted by stedic View Post
Where is this located?

Reference link -> http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1h/bl566h.htm
Ah that's inside HVAC box, inside the dash. It takes several hours to remove it for a first timer. Based on how cold it is in Red Deer you'll probably want to just buy a new one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stedic View Post
I'm going to go and park it in the Canadian Tire underground garage and figure this out..
Underground Crappy Tire garage? DECENT
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Unread 01-05-2014, 06:59 PM   #12
stedic
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So on with what happened today. I managed to get the hood open. I had a neighbor come over and pound a few times on the hood while I pulled the lever. This worked. I boosted it up fine and drove to the Canmore Canadian Tire. Immediately upon arrival I parked it down in the heated garage and replace the battery. I tried to get tires and rims, unfortunately they did not have any rims I could use in stock at all. They booked me in for a coolant, oil and tranny oil flush. However this bill was going to be $300. I opted out and bought some oil, coolant and an air filter. I figure I can make it to red deer on this.

I bought a seat cover that helps strengthen the back support. I am also using my ice brush as a prop, holding up the seat backing wedged against the back seat. This actually works really well.


I go back down to garage, fill the oil, fill the coolant, find out that they sold me an air filter with the incorrect size. I turn the engine and proceed to put it in gear... nothing. Clutch has no pressure and no gears engage. I found that my clutch was leaking! So basically all I need to do is build pressure. Double clutch everywhere I go and no more issues.

I am going to get tires and rims in Red Deer ASAP, right now my mpg is suffering because of it.

I'll comment more after supper.
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Unread 01-05-2014, 07:44 PM   #13
ECL
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Location: Easton, Pennsylvania
Posts: 267
Re the clutch, sounds like you have a leak somewhere in the hydraulics. I believe you have the same internal slave cylinder as my son's 90 YJ. We put a new slave cylinder in when we rebuilt the engine and it has leaked form Day1. Very annoying but we've gotten very quick at bleeding it.
Your's is probably the same so here's how:
Open up the master cylinder for the clutch (NOT the brake master cylinder, probably next to it). Top it off with brake fluid (if you do have a leak, you'll find the level is down).
One person inside pumps the clutch a few times and holds the clutch in.
The other guy climbs under on the passenger side. The bleed screw should look like a brake bleeder fitting sticking out of the bell housing. Use 2 wrenches. Put one on each half of the fitting and open the fitting (using 2 wrenches minimizes torque on the already leaking fitting on the slave cylinder itself inside the bell housing). You don't need to open very much or very far. In fact go into it planning on closing it as soon as you open it.
If it sputters some fluid, you know you're on the right track.
Check the fluid level and top off as necessary.
Repeat until you get a solid stream coming out and, for the final time, have your partner hold the clutch about halfway down. As you are opening up the fitting, the pedal will go down. Hopefully you can "catch" him before he puts the pedal to the floor. This will minimize the chance of air getting sucked back in.
We've gotten to the point we can do in about 10 minutes. Hardest part is trying to remember the wrench sizes. They're small - I think one is 5/16, the other a 1/4.
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Unread 01-07-2014, 06:36 AM   #14
stedic
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Location: Banff, Alberta
Posts: 18
So new update, replaced tires, got an oil change, flushed transmission, flushed coolant. The water pump is blown so I bought a new one. Going to try and find a warm place to install it tonight. Needs a new air filter; who ever had the car before me installed a cold air intake. 31/2 inch flange, 7 1/4 inches long, might go searching for it today, might have to order it through NAPA.

Other then that, got it inspected. My jeep is now legal to drive!
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Unread 01-07-2014, 09:03 AM   #15
roadraje
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Am I the only one who wants to see pics?
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