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Unread 11-09-2011, 02:13 PM   #1
Globalksp
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Neutral Safety Switch Basics

It had been happening for a while now. Every now and again my 96 Cherokee wouldn't start. A little jiggle of the handle and we were off. I knew that one day it would fail and only the jiggling of a Brazilian women during Carnival would get it to start. That day has come and I'm fresh out of Brazilian women.

I'm in the process of researching this for myself online but wanted to get the ball rolling on the forum as this is my most trusted source of information.

I've slacked with the Jeep and don't have a service manual for it and am fairly ignorant to its specifics.

First, the basics:

Where exactly is the NSS located on a 96 Cherokee (6cyl, 4 speed auto, 4WD)?

Is it possible to reach the switch from the cab and manually mess with it so I can at least start my Jeep?

I'm aware of the expense of buying a new NSS. I can't afford that. I'd rather not bypass it as I need to pass inspection (reverse lights), so my only option is to rebuild, right?

I'll leave it at that for now. If you've got experience with this I'm all ears.

Cheers.

Update - I've found this article (http://bc4x4.com/tech/2010/jeep-neut...ty-switch-nss/) and it looks fairly reliable. Any one who has done this have thoughts?

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Unread 11-09-2011, 02:24 PM   #2
Azzy
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Its mounted on the side of the trans, on the passenger side. Upi'll see it has a large hollow nut, which is what the selector moves from inside the trans. There is a rebuild thread here you can search out that requires sandpaper, water, glass, and dielectric grease.
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Unread 11-09-2011, 09:03 PM   #3
1488
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Here is the link

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/n...arting-971621/
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Unread 11-10-2011, 12:33 AM   #4
sAe23
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My NSS was a Major PITA to remove. It actually broke apart before it would let go of the rod.
Do your reverse lights work?
Maybe yours just needs adjusting
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Unread 11-10-2011, 04:11 AM   #5
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When removing the NSS, liberally spray with something like PB Blaster. Remove the nut after bending the lock tab out of the way. The threaded area the nut came off of has 4 splits/voids in it. Spray that area liberally. Using a screwdriver GENTLY spread the voids a bit and spray some more. Rock the switch back and forth to loosen things up before attempting to pull the NSS out and off the shaft.
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Unread 11-10-2011, 11:06 AM   #6
Globalksp
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Thanks all for your replies, they helped, but I'm still screwed.

I've just removed the NSS from the transmission. It's in pieces. Everything went smoothly until it was time to slide the NSS off of the shifter shaft. The shaft, being exposed to the elements had rusted and grown in size by the smallest amount. The NSS did not want to slide off the shaft. The srewdriver method worked but being gentle didn't make it budge and not being gentle broke the threads which are quite weak. Long story short, I need a new NSS or I need to bypass it. Seeing how I'm broke, I'm going to try to bypass it for now.
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Unread 11-10-2011, 03:06 PM   #7
cruiser54
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Did you follow the instructions in my Post #5?
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Unread 11-10-2011, 07:22 PM   #8
Globalksp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruiser54 View Post
Did you follow the instructions in my Post #5?
Not closely enough I'm afraid. For anyone who finds this post in the future, your (Cruiser54's) instructions were spot on, thanks.

The portion of the shifter shaft on my Jeep that is exposed to the elements was rusty and needed to be "thinned" with a Dremel before the NSS would come off.
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Unread 11-11-2011, 07:28 AM   #9
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I was lucky to have a spare from a junkyard when i pulled it off, and ended up using that one. most likley none are going to come off all that easy after 11+ years of crud.
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Unread 11-11-2011, 03:05 PM   #10
Globalksp
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Since I have your attention...

Was '96 a strange year for NSS's? All of the parts I've found online that are reasonably priced are for 97's and newer. The mechanic took a look today and told me that he couldn't source the NSS from an aftermarket dealer because of its rarity (my word, not his). All told the shop wants $535 for part and labor.

If the 96 and earlier models differ in the NSS switch / connectors, will this affect my attempts at bypassing the NSS?

Thanks all for your knowledge.
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