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post #1 of 11 Old 02-13-2011, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
Willy36
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1990 XJ Cherokee 
 
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need some creative brainstorming

We were doing a harmonic balancer install on my friend's XJ ('00, 4.0, auto), and to press on the new one I had a bolt with the right thread pitch but longer than the original bolt. We used that, but when we got it to the end of the threads and it got harder it never occurred to me that it was at the end of the threads...so we kept on going for a few more turns. When I realized my mistake, we started backing it out but it's turned so hard into the crank that holding the pulley from turning is all but impossible. We had 2 Grade 8 bolts screwed into the holes where the puller bolts go and had a screwdriver jammed up in there and both of them broke simultaneously in our attempt to turn the crank bolt out. So my question is, how the hell do we get the crank to hold still? The damn slushbox is a huge disadvantage right now as it won't hold the engine from turning. So ideas? Perhaps things already done?

BTW the bolt was coming out when we turned it back when we were actually able to hold the pulley still so we know it's not stripped.

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post #2 of 11 Old 02-13-2011, 11:35 PM
892wheel
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im not sure who makes it but there is a tool out there made to hold the flywheel...it has two hooks that go between the teeth...it looks something like this
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post #3 of 11 Old 02-14-2011, 07:50 AM
bdodge
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the incompressability of water theory. fill a cylinder on a compression stroke full of water through the sparkplug hole, reinsert the spark plug, the enging wont be able to trun over because water doesn't compress Just kidding, the theory is correct, but it wouldn't be good for the engine lol. what I have done was to stuff a breaker bar in there and rest it against the frame rail and bump the starter, don't hold like you would to start the vehicle just bump it, should break the bolt lose.

97' Cherokee sport 2 DR / 4.0 Power Tech, 5 spd MAN, Command trac / Dana M30/181MM front axel, Corporate 8.25 rear axel / 6.5" Bastard lift, 31X10.5 Daytona futura's on Cragar 15X8 soft 8's, Logans Metals Front winch bumper, Flowmaster super 44, Magnoflow high flow cat
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post #4 of 11 Old 02-14-2011, 08:50 AM
adkjeepxj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdodge View Post
the incompressability of water theory. fill a cylinder on a compression stroke full of water through the sparkplug hole, reinsert the spark plug, the enging wont be able to trun over because water doesn't compress Just kidding, the theory is correct, but it wouldn't be good for the engine lol. what I have done was to stuff a breaker bar in there and rest it against the frame rail and bump the starter, don't hold like you would to start the vehicle just bump it, should break the bolt lose.
Wow not sure if I would want to do either of those things but I am not in this situation and I have no idea how I would go about getting that bolt out ... Goodluck
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post #5 of 11 Old 02-14-2011, 09:48 AM
Mikeand
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impact wrench, lots of torque is what you need.

1996 Cherokee Sport -4.6L Stroker, TB Spacer, Cold Air Intake, APN Header - D30 front / 8.25 Rear -RC 3" Lift -Dakota Leaf Pack -Rough Country Discos / -31" General Grabber A/T2s on 15x8 Cragar Soft 8s -Diamond plate rear quarter panels -Front bumper with hoop - IRO Double shear Track Bar and HD tie rod -Homemade light bar
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post #6 of 11 Old 02-14-2011, 09:54 AM
Hussler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdodge View Post
the incompressability of water theory. fill a cylinder on a compression stroke full of water through the sparkplug hole, reinsert the spark plug, the enging wont be able to trun over because water doesn't compress Just kidding, the theory is correct, but it wouldn't be good for the engine lol. what I have done was to stuff a breaker bar in there and rest it against the frame rail and bump the starter, don't hold like you would to start the vehicle just bump it, should break the bolt lose.
At first I was like OMG but then I was like...

He could technically do it with oil as a last resort.

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Sometimes a restoration project is a labor of love, at which point cost, time, and labor involved become irrelevant.
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I see you also twizzled your scart lead. Well done! :thumbsup:
92 XJ with ARB's, 5" lift, too much armor, 33's and some other garbage
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post #7 of 11 Old 02-14-2011, 09:56 AM
Hussler
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I see you have a manual! Thats good!

Place it in first gear, 4 lo. Block all the wheels. If your clutch is good enough it shouldnt slip when turning. At least mine didnt (although it sounds like yours is pretty tight)

You should have just rented the FREE tool from Autozone!

Remember, K.I.S.S.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris87xj View Post
Sometimes a restoration project is a labor of love, at which point cost, time, and labor involved become irrelevant.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BorderC View Post
I see you also twizzled your scart lead. Well done! :thumbsup:
92 XJ with ARB's, 5" lift, too much armor, 33's and some other garbage
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post #8 of 11 Old 02-14-2011, 11:16 AM
sargergp
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X2 what he said

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeand View Post
impact wrench, lots of torque is what you need.
Unfortunately what you have done is bottomed the end of your bolt in the back of the hole in the crank and mushroomed the end of the bolt so it doesn't want to come back through the threads. I've seen this before. You're best bet is like this post says, use a good 1/2" drive impact and keep the threads lubed good and just keep working the bolt in and out to the limits of its movement concentrating on outward. It will take you a while but it will eventually come out and you may have to rethread the hole or put a helicoil insert in it when you're done but there just isn't any other option.
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post #9 of 11 Old 02-14-2011, 11:31 AM
1990JEEPXJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hussler View Post
I see you have a manual! Thats good!

Place it in first gear, 4 lo. Block all the wheels. If your clutch is good enough it shouldnt slip when turning. At least mine didnt (although it sounds like yours is pretty tight)

You should have just rented the FREE tool from Autozone!

Remember, K.I.S.S.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Willy36 View Post
We were doing a harmonic balancer install on my friend's XJ ('00, 4.0, auto)


Completely stock, and keeping it that way...

My POS
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Yea, and I thought it was one of the 11 Commandments:
11) Thou shalt love, cherish, and honor till death, thine square headlights above all other earthy things sayith the Lord.
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post #10 of 11 Old 02-14-2011, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
Willy36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hussler View Post
I see you have a manual! Thats good!

Place it in first gear, 4 lo. Block all the wheels. If your clutch is good enough it shouldnt slip when turning. At least mine didnt (although it sounds like yours is pretty tight)

You should have just rented the FREE tool from Autozone!

Remember, K.I.S.S.
did rent the free tool....this was the reinstall, not removal, and the ****ing jaw nut was missing from the kit when we rented it >_<

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1990JEEPXJ View Post
thank you.



don't know if i can get my hands on an impact. that was my first thought, but i'm a broke college student with broke college student friends haha. i'll keep the starter thing in mind as a LAST resort. anyone know if i can get at the flywheel through an inspection window or anything like that without taking the bellhousing off?
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post #11 of 11 Old 02-14-2011, 01:34 PM
Ben
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You need to get the other 2 bolts out first, then make a tool out of a piece of bar stock that can be held in by those.
If/when you get it turning, turn it like a die you're cutting threads with. 1/2 turn out, 1/4 turn in, 1/2 turn out, 1/4 turn in... use cutting oil.
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