Need Help XJ Bleeding/Proportioning Valve - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 12 Old 12-21-2011, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
Yanlg
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Need Help XJ Bleeding/Proportioning Valve

Hi ive got a 2000 XJ 4.0L

Maybe you can help me... I had a leaking wheel cyclinder on my 2000 XJ 4.0l which i ran for a while topping off my reservoir, i did run dry at one point clearly getting alot of air into the system. After changing the wheel cylinder and the right rear line as it snapped during removal. I had air in my brakes and didnt bleed it right away. (I know i'am an idiot!) Anyways i was driving along with the little pressure i had when the pedal at a red light progressively went lower to the point where i had no breaking power, got home in neutral and handbrake. At this point i decided to bleed the system ( I know its about f***in time) So anyways still no pressure and my right rear not even any fluid. After troubleshooting all signs pointed towards the Master Cylinder. So I replaced it and verified everything, twice, no leaks, booster is good pads and shoes brand new as well as calipers! Now im trying to bleed and i barely get any fluid to the rear? So my main question being could this be the proportioning valve and if so what is the correct procedure to bleed and verify the proportioning valves functionality.

P.s. I did bleed the Master b4 installation.

Thank you for having read all this!


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post #2 of 12 Old 12-21-2011, 03:01 PM
CJ7-Tim
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The proportioning valve is probably fine, I would guess you are bleeding the brakes incorrectly, you have contamination in the brake fluid, or you have a fluid leak in the brake lines.

If you have ABS, you have air bubbles in the ABS system.

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post #3 of 12 Old 12-21-2011, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
Yanlg
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Ive checked over and over and i know there are no leaks, as far as bleeding ive been using a bleeder kit. The MC i bled until all bubbles were gone and only fluid was flowing through tubes. After installing i started at right rear wheel using my bleeding kit, i do not get a stream of fluid, my back left i get a little squirt. as for the front i get a jet stream. According to the chilton i should bleed in the following sequence.

≤ Master Cylinder
≤ Combination Valve
≤ Right Rear Wheel
≤ Left Rear Wheel
≤ Right Front Wheel
≤ Left Front Wheel

How do i bleed the combination valve?
Or could it be the pressure differential switch within it?
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post #4 of 12 Old 12-21-2011, 03:23 PM
CJ7-Tim
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The proportioning valve should bleed by itself with the rest of the system.

Diagnose the reason you have no fluid at both rear brakes.

.

A recent Gallup public opinion poll shows the NRA, at 58% approval, has a higher approval rating than either Hillary Clinton or Barack Obama.

Progressive Liberalism: Bringing you new Healthcare ideas so wonderful, they have to include mandatory participation ...

Originally Posted by Ronald W. Reagan: Government is not the solution to our problems; Government is the problem.
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post #5 of 12 Old 12-21-2011, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
Yanlg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ7-Tim View Post
The proportioning valve should bleed by itself with the rest of the system.

Diagnose the reason you have no fluid at both rear brakes.
At this point diagnosing why i have no fluid to my rear is what i cant seem to figure out which is why the only thing left is that proportioning valve.

If i don't get anything to the rear and i have no leaks, if it were contaminated and jammed i would at least be building pressure right?

This isnt the first time i bleed brakes but ive never seen anything like this?!?!

Thx Anyways.
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post #6 of 12 Old 12-21-2011, 06:09 PM
AZ Jeff
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Question--when you turn the key to "ON", does the brake light illuminate on the instrument panel?

If it does NOT, then it means your prop. valve is centered correctly, and you should be getting fluid to the rear wheels as designed.

Have you looked at the possibility of a clogged/collapsed soft line from the body to the axle in the back?

AZ-Jeff
I don't own an XJ any longer, but I still think they are the best of all the Jeep products ever made. My XJ was my favorite vehicle in my 50+ years of driving.
So...I stick around and give advice.
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post #7 of 12 Old 12-22-2011, 09:39 AM
DIG
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Im having the same issues with my 99 xj. No fluid is coming out of my pass. side rear brake and just a drip out of my driver side. the front brakes bled perfectly find. I cant seem to figure it out. All signs point to the combo / prop. valve from what ive read.
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post #8 of 12 Old 12-22-2011, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
Yanlg
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@ Az Jeff..,. I checked and smith weir is happening because when I start the self test illuminates the brake warning lamp but for some reason my handbrake no longer illuminates it and when I pulled out the sensor to push in the rod manually it still wouldn't illuminate.... Just Valle the dealer they want 136$ for the valve :S bastards i got the MC for half that! Found a scrapyard that might have it so in gonna check it out.
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post #9 of 12 Old 12-22-2011, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
Yanlg
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@ DiG I feel ya I've been banging my head off walls trying to figure this one out! Let me know if u do and I'll do the same. Thx guys
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post #10 of 12 Old 12-22-2011, 12:00 PM
Azzy
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You could just pull your prop valve apart, using one of the many threads here on disc conversion, and take a look and see if the parts are in good condition. There isnt much to the thing.

Im the guy who makes new gauges, check out our gallery at Teamadw.com
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post #11 of 12 Old 12-22-2011, 12:31 PM
CJ7-Tim
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The prop valve either works, or it does not. If you have brakes issues and loose brake line pressure the prop valve can activate and get stuck. The solution is to locate and fix any brake problems such as fluid leakage, contaminated brake fluid, internally rusted brake components, or blocked brake lines, and then bleed the brakes using proper tools and procedures. If prop valve is stuck, as suggested, simply open it up, unstick it, and bleed the brakes using proper tools and procedures.

.

A recent Gallup public opinion poll shows the NRA, at 58% approval, has a higher approval rating than either Hillary Clinton or Barack Obama.

Progressive Liberalism: Bringing you new Healthcare ideas so wonderful, they have to include mandatory participation ...

Originally Posted by Ronald W. Reagan: Government is not the solution to our problems; Government is the problem.
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post #12 of 12 Old 12-24-2011, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
Yanlg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ7-Tim View Post
The prop valve either works, or it does not. If you have brakes issues and loose brake line pressure the prop valve can activate and get stuck. The solution is to locate and fix any brake problems such as fluid leakage, contaminated brake fluid, internally rusted brake components, or blocked brake lines, and then bleed the brakes using proper tools and procedures. If prop valve is stuck, as suggested, simply open it up, unstick it, and bleed the brakes using proper tools and procedures.

At this point i believe my line going to my rear junction is internally rusted because i have no pinch anywhere and i cracked the lines exiting the prop valve theres fluid coming threw and now i get the brake warning lamp illuminating. After closing the line the light goes off wich suggest i do not have a leak. i cracked the lines out of the rear splitter and there dry, i cracked it right before the rubber line going to rear junction and my heavily rusted line snapped and only my old fluid came out. I pumped the brakes and no difference in pedal and no new fluid. Hence a blockage between prop valve and the rear high pressure hose before the rear junction!

Thx CJ-7 you saved me from wasting more money on a prop valve i clearly dont need... I will replace that line after xmas when the parts shop opens up and hope for the best!



[COLOR="rgb(160, 82, 45)"]Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays![/COLOR]
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