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Unread 09-08-2013, 05:56 PM   #1
nickmcc247
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need help with a vibration problem

Im at wits end, i bought a 00 with 96000 miles on it. it had a 3 inch lift already installed when I got it. I think its a rough country with an add a leaf in the back. this jeep came from maine and has some rusty parts on it.

so the most annoying problem is a low speed vibration, it is worst when i am turning left, not as bad when i go straight, and nonexistent if i am turning right. you can feel it through the seat, not the steering wheel. you can feel it in the floor as well, like something is bumping against it. this only occurs when i am stopped and take off and clears it self up by about 5 mph or so. at speed it does not seem to happen even if i hit some bumps.

so far i have replaced the axle joints, all the ball joints, upper and lower control arm bushings and the sway arm bushings. i also have a brand new set of wheels and tires and it did it with both sets. i also did the torque shaft technical bulletin fix. all the steering components seem tight and have been greased, u joints arent sloppy. engine mounts and tranny mount dont look terrible and dont seem like the need replacing.

any ideas or similar problems? thanks in advance.

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Unread 09-08-2013, 08:22 PM   #2
M35A2
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IMHO, the issue is not a rotating mass problem, If it were, it would happen at speed, on acel or decel. I would start with mounting points, like trans and engine mounts. Look for engine, trans, t-case and body contact.
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Unread 09-08-2013, 09:39 PM   #3
nickmcc247
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good point. i have looked and didnt see any contact or noise from anything (aside form the torque shaft movement which i was able to get video of by taping my phone to a bunch of different spots on the jeep). the mounts look ok but how can i replicate the kind of torque this motor produces on a mount? Has anyone had similar problems with a bad tranny mount?
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Unread 09-08-2013, 09:41 PM   #4
JeepinJeremy
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front axle joint at knuckle, damaged bushings on control arms, Worn out front drive shaft u-joints.
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Unread 09-08-2013, 10:02 PM   #5
M35A2
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Is it an auto trans? If so, set the p-brake, drop it in gear, left foot on the brake and give it some throttle with your rt foot. If the vibration is there, then, you know it is not drivetrain related, but something rubbing. Exhaust, engine, trans, etc rubbing/hitting on another component. PLEASE, make sure nobody is in front of the truck when you do this!!
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Unread 09-09-2013, 07:10 AM   #6
nickmcc247
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i have tried this m35a2, and didnt get any vibration, on the way to work this morning i did get some vibration taking a left at about 20, went away once i straightened out. Also, im noticing a very quick 'shudder' when i let of the gas, feels like it comes from the back though.

Last edited by nickmcc247; 09-09-2013 at 07:24 AM..
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Unread 09-12-2013, 02:34 PM   #7
accelr8
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I had similar vibrations post 4" lift caused by driveline angles. It would give a few thumps like something was hitting when first accelerating while turning. Didn't make noise or vibrate straight on or while turning the same way while in reverse. Does it have a transfer case drop, or less likely, a slip-yoke eliminator kit installed? If not, you might need one. 97-01's are more susceptible to vibrations when lifted compared to pre-96 models.
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Unread 09-12-2013, 08:08 PM   #8
nickmcc247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by accelr8 View Post
I had similar vibrations post 4" lift caused by driveline angles. It would give a few thumps like something was hitting when first accelerating while turning. Didn't make noise or vibrate straight on or while turning the same way while in reverse. Does it have a transfer case drop, or less likely, a slip-yoke eliminator kit installed? If not, you might need one. 97-01's are more susceptible to vibrations when lifted compared to pre-96 models.
no it doesnt have either, is a t case drop the best way to go? what about the leaf spring wedges?

i read a tip from somewhere that says if its driveline related you can put it in neutral while its happening and if it goes away thats the problem. i tried this several times today and it seemed to work until i got going fast enough while turning left that it didnt seem to go away.

im just going to pull the driveline and drive it with only the front one in and see what happens. i cant comprehend why its so much worse turning left. im slowly coming to terms that its a accumulation of problems and each time i spend 100 dollars on parts it gets a little better.

thanks for the advice.
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Unread 09-13-2013, 07:01 PM   #9
nickmcc247
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So I took out the rear driveline and drove it around the block. No more vibration. I replaced the ujoints even though there was no noticeable play. One did have a crack in it but maybe as a result of removal. Little better but still that vibration under take off. So it's gotta be angle. What's the best way to go? It's a 3 or 3 1/2 inch lift, so should I do wedges or tcase drop or both? How much of either is necessary?
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Unread 09-13-2013, 07:22 PM   #10
habbyguy
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I also have a 3" Rough Country lift. It's never been totally vibe-free, but seems to have gotten worse lately. I tried wedges, though they really only seemed to move the speed the vibes are worst at (without 'em, it's from a stop, now it's worse at mid-range, like about 2,000rpm). I've got new u-joints, and a rebuilt diff, and new(ish) wheel bearings, so I can cross those off as likely reasons.

What I'm going to do is order one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-CV-DRIV...tchlink:top:en

It gives you most of the advantages of a SYE and CV shaft, but without having to tear apart your transfer case or hack-n-tap the output shaft. I know it's not quite as good, since the slip shaft is not inline with the shaft, but the current shaft has seen me through a LOT of nonsense, and this one will be better by virtue of being longer (it's custom-built to the actual XC to diff dimensions (so it'll have more overlap on the splines). I figure if the original was OK for the first 220,000 miles, this one should last for whatever's left in my Jeep!
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Unread 09-14-2013, 10:58 AM   #11
nickmcc247
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how much of a degree change did you try? im thinking of trying 2.
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Unread 09-14-2013, 11:57 AM   #12
habbyguy
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I've got a 2.5 degree wedge in there now (fat end forward). This puts the rear diff and the XC in about the same alignment.

But to add to the mystery, I just went out and dropped my rear shaft to measure for the new CV shaft. Got that, but what I didn't expect was to find so much play at the front of the shaft (between the splines of the XC output shaft and the driveshaft yoke). Check it out on this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpd_i...ature=youtu.be

I can only guess that's WAY too much play, and is likely the cause of the vibes I'm feeling, more than a typical angle mismatch due to a 3" lift.

Also, it's interesting that the shaft has "D35" on the yoke, on a Jeep with a Chrysler 8.25 rear end (or maybe that's just a coincidence that has nothing to do with the diff? Or maybe someone in the dim and distant past replaced the shaft???).

Now I'm wondering if I'm wasting time and money replacing the shaft - if the output shaft splines are worn at all, I can't imagine the outcome will be good.

And while I was down there, I calculated that I'd need a wedge in the order of 10-11 degrees to get the front of the diff pointed at the rear of the XC shaft (where it should be if I switch to a CV shaft).
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Unread 09-14-2013, 08:42 PM   #13
nickmcc247
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Wow that's a lot of play. I have the Chrysler rear end too and will check it out in the morning to see if it is the same. Driving around today I still had the vibration but also got the thump under the drivers side floor plan a couple of times. It's definitely better since doing the tbs xc linkage fix dealio but its still occurring. And yes my exhaust is clear of everything. And Turning left seems to make everything worse.
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Unread 09-16-2013, 10:22 PM   #14
nickmcc247
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my yoke is different, the writing is on a different spot and is a spicer. looks similar otherwise, i can post a pic if you want but i also noticed yours is a 96 and mine a 2000. and on another note, i think i found out the source of my low speed vibration. the bushing on the axle of the upper control arm on the drivers side backed out so the control arm is in contact with the axle, this must be why it only happens on a left turn or going straight. haveing just replaced them i never gave them a second look. i think the sound from the torque shaft kept me searching for a noise while this was backing out and by the time the shaft problem was fixed the bushing was making the noise. this bushing went in like a ***** and because of the pitman arm and spring the end of the pressing tool had to be turned toward the oil pan so that an impact couldnt be used, just a wrench. i am 100% positive that it was seated to where it should be because i was the one spotting while my friend was unlucky enough to turn the wrench. i wonder if anyone else has had this happen? anyone have a suggestion on a better way? i do have to remove the spring so maybe that will give enough room to use an impact from the opposite direction. im thinking ill remove it and throw it in the freezer over night and maybe warm up the axle hole before install.
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Unread 09-17-2013, 06:54 AM   #15
Millermagic
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If the wedge is installed fat end forward on the rear axle, that would make the pinion yoke point down. That's probably a bad thing.

The bushing backing out will definitely cause some weird reverberations through the cabin.
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