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Rampage Bowless Soft Top Oconee offroadAlloy USA Still AvailableAdvance Adapters SYE Kits

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Unread 08-07-2013, 03:03 PM   #16
Maltesian
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Location: Traverse City, Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyeye View Post
Have you checked your wheel bearings in the rear ? Are checked your gears ? Mine made grinding sounds . After I lifted it to 4.5 . Everything changed so my bearings and spider gears didn't like it . So I replaced them and no more vibration .
No, how do u check for that?

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Unread 08-07-2013, 03:21 PM   #17
crazyeye
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Take the wheel and brake drum off . See if there is any play by attempting to move axle flange up & down . Also turn axle shaft to see if you feel any type of binding .
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Unread 08-07-2013, 09:40 PM   #18
Maltesian
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Now it seems that there is still a scraping noise coming from my rear brake drum. Pretty easy to hear and it is the sound of something scraping something that shouldn't be.

Not sure really whats going on at this point. Looks like Ive got yet another set of issues to deal with.

The sound came from when I took off the drum and found the broken auto adjuster cable. Replaced it and the knob and a few other things but not any of the springs were replaced. Auto zone sells the repair kits in kits not a kit, maybe you can get a full service kit, idk. So basically only things I replaced were auto-adjuster components. No springs, shoes, or anything else.

so whats up now? and btw me asking for help straight up doesn't get any better thanks
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Unread 08-08-2013, 04:05 AM   #19
crazyeye
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How much drag do you have on your drum brakes ? Should be just a little bit . If you don't have any drag start checking those bearings in rear end .
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Unread 08-08-2013, 09:51 AM   #20
Maltesian
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OK, I just went out there for the 3rd time to look at the rear right break drum. After looking at it some more I think I know whats going on but am not certain as ive never done this.

I also checked the Axel flange and tried moving around and it seems its pretty tight, I dont think theirs any bad bearings yet.

Whenever I slide the drum back on it always scrapes/rubs and I know there's is suppose to be a a little drag but I don't think this much. Even with the adjuster knob set at the shortest distance, the drum is contacting something still when I spin it, making the noise.

I don think the drum is properly square anymore, there's grooves in it that appear to be from wear, I posted pics in the link. I'm not sure if those grooves are suppose to be there but this is why im asking.

Also that when I bought the jeep, the lady told me that her mechanic just got done replacing the rear brakes. Or the shoes apparently.

http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/9938339/ (hit next and there is 2 pics of it)

I think I might need a new drum or have it machined.

Those grooves are definitely pretty prominent upon the touch, I don't think there suppose to be there but not sure.
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Unread 08-08-2013, 10:31 AM   #21
crazyeye
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I would defiantly change those drums . As cheap as they are to buy I would just by new ones .
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Unread 08-10-2013, 06:36 PM   #22
Maltesian
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Well today was pretty ****ty. I tried to install my 1" spacers on the cross member and I hit a brick wall. I was able to remove the studs with no problems using a bolt extractor kit that I learned about only after trying the 2 nut deal.

Now after I got those out first using a propane torch, all I had to do was remove the other 2 bolts and I'm set. Well I basically broke the first nut because I straight up forgot to heat it up even with the torch right next to me..It just snapped right off. The next bolt came out no problems what so ever when I used the torch...

So then I started drilling away for a chance at re-tapping it.

Started drilling but then soon reached a point where I was drilling into something harder then the drill itself. It just stopped cutting period. Even after drilling a little pilot hole that also reach a point which it couldn't go any further.


I need to keep drilling somehow, I'm gonna tap it with a bigger tap probably since I here that nut is plenty big.
Sucks ***
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Unread 08-10-2013, 10:38 PM   #23
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I had the same deal with the crossmember bolt except i broke all four. It seemed to me that the last 1/2" of those bolts or the nut set is hardned steel and a bit wont cut it. Possibly from the welding of the nut set tempering the nut. Idk rly but a bit wont cut through it.

Pretty boner move but seeing as i couldnt re tap the holes i went and got some fairly larger diameter Course thread grade 8 bolts and and a drill bit 1/8" smaller. Drilled out what i could and just forced the bolts in letting them thread the hole and pushing the little bit of old bolt left in through and out.
Pretty greasy solution but they have been solid for 6 years now.
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Unread 08-10-2013, 10:53 PM   #24
Maltesian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X-Rated View Post
I had the same deal with the crossmember bolt except i broke all four. It seemed to me that the last 1/2" of those bolts or the nut set is hardned steel and a bit wont cut it. Possibly from the welding of the nut set tempering the nut. Idk rly but a bit wont cut through it.

Pretty boner move but seeing as i couldnt re tap the holes i went and got some fairly larger diameter Course thread grade 8 bolts and and a drill bit 1/8" smaller. Drilled out what i could and just forced the bolts in letting them thread the hole and pushing the little bit of old bolt left in through and out.
Pretty greasy solution but they have been solid for 6 years now.
Dam, I keep reading that the best solution is to actually keep drilling it until you get far enough to tap with a bigger tap.

So I guess I'm gonna just install the 3 of the 4 bolts and use it to drive to work on Monday where I can grab a carbide drill and see if I can break through far enough to run a tap. If that doesn't work I probably will do something along the lines of what you did. With some red loch tight as well.
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Unread 08-10-2013, 11:00 PM   #25
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I did keep drilling and gave up. Lol
Im sure eventually youll get through but i hit the ropes after 5 or six bits of drilling, sharpening, repeat till the bits where useless.

If it makes u feel any better 2 of the bolts i had broken easy outs off inside. Those are pretty hard to drill out also.
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Unread 08-10-2013, 11:24 PM   #26
Maltesian
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Originally Posted by X-Rated View Post
I did keep drilling and gave up. Lol
Im sure eventually youll get through but i hit the ropes after 5 or six bits of drilling, sharpening, repeat till the bits where useless.

If it makes u feel any better 2 of the bolts i had broken easy outs off inside. Those are pretty hard to drill out also.
That's much worse then I had, luckily I only have to repair one hole. I'll probably end up with something similar. I just need the hole to be deep enough to bite on.
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Unread 08-11-2013, 05:34 PM   #27
Maltesian
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Alright guys, everything seems to be good so far.

Ended up drilling and tapping all 4 holes to the much more coarse and next biggest size, 7/16th-14 thread. Way better then those ****ty M10 x 1.5 the kit came with.

Dabbed the **** out of the 4 grade 8 bolts I had with washers and lock rings, then torqued them in, all at 35 ft/lbs. Thank god the new threads held enough to achieve that, and for having a torque wrench. I was thinking anymore I could start stripping the threads or something.

Checked the linkage for any crazy, obvious problems. All seemed good while driving around in 2HI,4Hi and 4 L for little while. I had my hand on the handle most of the time and I couldn't feel anything crazy.

Now it drives great with no vibrations.

Also replaced that one drum. I'm thinking the cable was caught in the drum when it snapped, leaving those grooves.

I also thought it was funny when everyone was making a big deal about loosing ground clearance with transfer case spacers. I looked at everything more closely and saw at least 2 other pieces of the undercarriage that were at level or lower then the spacers. The catalytic converter sits much lower then the spacers and the part of the frame that holds the control arms is at the same level as the spacers.

Sure I'm technically loosing ground clearance, but not nearly enough to consider it a problem, or un-justifying using a T-case drop. You gotta be hardcore crawler or something to worry bought that.

Hey thanks guys I really appreciate it.
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Unread 08-11-2013, 06:49 PM   #28
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Awesome!
Glad you got her back on track

Funny, i didnt even think of looseing any center clearance from a 1" t case drop for the same reason. There is so much other crap hanging down thatll get cought up also. Beside shimming your leaf perches any more than six degrees to strighten out the driveline results in too much loss of Diff oil capacity. iMHO anyways
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Unread 08-11-2013, 06:56 PM   #29
Maltesian
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Awesome!
Glad you got her back on track

Funny, i didnt even think of looseing any center clearance from a 1" t case drop for the same reason. There is so much other crap hanging down thatll get cought up also. Beside shimming your leaf perches any more than six degrees to strighten out the driveline results in too much loss of Diff oil capacity. iMHO anyways
Yea I agree. If need be, I would only consider a SYE unless I was really concerned about loosing center ground clearance when I would be more so crawling. As long as the motor mounts hold well enough, and nothing else is damaged. Should be pretty good with just 1" spacers and solving all of your issues by reverting it basically back to stock.

And to anyone who does this in the future, I recommend just canning any M10 fastener Ideas that you would use and just drill everything it out with the correct drill and re-tap with 7/16-14. Much better thread. Seems like those old M10's were more so a one shot deal during assembly. I ran into problems trying to thread the M10's I had into the old holes because the threads are more fine and harder to align straight. Even after I chased them with a tap. I sill ended up stripping it out because I couldn't get the threads starting good enough.
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