4.56 Ring and Pinion:
A bit more complicated than the average wrencher wants to tackle, so for this section I’m just sharing what I did, rather than a full on walk through.
I measured the shims that came with my overhaul kit, with my grandfathers old calipers that he gave me so they might be a bit off, and got the following (and this is my own terminology):
Pinion shims: 0.03”, 0.01”, 0.005” [large, medium, small]
Carrier shims (between inner race and carrier): 0.03”, 0.01”, 0.005” [large, medium, small]
Bearing shims: 0.01”, 0.005”, 0.003” [large, medium, small]
**During the gearing process leave the pinion seal for last so you don’t screw it up while trying different preloads
**Also remember the orientation of your bearing caps, they need to be put back exactly as they came out.
**I didn’t notice until way late in the gearing process that I accidentally had two pinion nut washers on the yoke, I don’t know if it would throw anything off for your process**
I placed two small carrier shims under each of the carrier bearings and pressed them onto the carrier, because you know your going to be shimming a lot later so why not put some here so there’s not a huge stack on the outside later. Do this very slowly and make sure the bearings are going on straight.
I installed a lockrite locker and this must be done before installing the ring gear, it was easily installed using their directions so I won’t cover that. If you are running an open carrier you should also install the spiders at this time as the cross shaft will not clear the ring gear. Here the carrier is pictured with the locker installed, and that’s a 7/32” roll pin by the way, kinda tough to find.
Put a bit of lock-tite on the ring gear bolts and hand thread.
Once they are all hand threaded snug them up by hand (in a star pattern like lug nuts) to draw the ring up to the carrier (deep gear carrier btw).
Torque ring gear bolts to 55 ft-lb in this case
Knocking out the old inner pinion bearing race with a screwdriver, from the back of the housing.
Knocking out the outer pinion bearing race from the front of the housing (the tubing is aluminum, don’t worry)
I wised up…..just a bit, and bought aluminum rod in place of a brass punch so as not to damage the new bearing races as I punched them in (not shown).
As for pinion depth, rather than putting shims under the inner pinion bearing (between it, the slinger and the head) I put them between the inner bearing’s outer race and the housing. I seem to recall seeing 27 thousandths on the caliper for the shims I put in, but it must have been 25 thousandths, so two mediums and a small (for 4.56s), but at the end of all this, the pinion could have been a bit closer, so try what you will. When punching in the outer bearing’s outer race don’t put shims between it and the housing.
The inner pinion bearing should be pressed on with the oil slinger between it and the pinion head as shown.
The inner pinion bearing is an interference fit (i.e. needs to be pressed on/off) where as the outer pinion bearing is not, so for ease of setting bearing pre-load sand the pinion shaft (just a small bit, the bearing still needs to be tough to slide on and off) above the shoulder with emery paper or a very fine grit sand paper (I used 220), I covered the inner pinion bearing with saran wrap so no shavings would get into it. (Now this is what I, and some of the fellas I tool around with do, but I've been informed that this is not a common practice, don't do it if you're not comfortable doing so)