First the disclaimer; use this information only for reference, I am a 20 year old mining engineering student, I AM NOT A MECHANIC, none of this was done by a professional, it is all things I have just learned over my few years and I cannot be held accountable for anything going wrong if you try this yourself.
Also, be careful in reading, I organized this in sections so if you were to follow this step by step in a build, you may notice some pictures have parts installed that shouldnít be installed until later. Iíve left just a few things up to common sense (i.e. no pics or directions) because if you canít handle the gaps you might not want to tackle this project.
This build was for putting a changing a Jeep Grand Wagoneer Dana 44 front axle into a Jeep Cherokee XJ (or Wrangler TJ), and in the process, re-gearing it, locking it, and changing to a 5 on 5.5Ē bolt pattern (adapters to be used on the rear). But do take note that it already had the RE bracket kit welded on (about a $400 value)
Well this is how it all started; many, many thanks to FitchVA for offering the axles up to me for a screaming deal not a more than a day after I posted up about my grenaded 30 from Big Dogs:
Project axle: Bare housing, low pinion, driver drop Grand Wagoneer Dana 44 with the Rubicon Express brackets already welded on, I just had to weld on a few brackets that the owner before Fitch cut off, I had pictures on my cell but I ran over it with my jeep.
Parts axle: Low pinion passenger drop Grand Wagoneer Dana 44 to be robbed of the tie rod, knuckles, diff cover, yoke, and cross shaft
Hopefully you can read the mfg.s and part numbers if not I can email the file on request or some computer guru can try to blow it up for me, or make suggestions, Iím not too good with computers:
Parts robbed off the passenger drop and sold to my neighbor, housing sanded clean (for the most part), and rubbed down with acetone. The accumulation of boxes started much to my mom’s dismay.
All primered up, then painted with Rustoleum professional enamel (supposed to be pretty tough)
I rented a ball-joint/u-joint press from salvos and this thing was a god-send, highly recommended. First, make sure the snap-rings are removed from the bottoms of the ball-joints, then press out the bottom ball-joints as shown so you can gain access to the uppers.
Once the lowers are out, set up the press as shown, and press out the uppers.
Pressing the new upper in
Pressing the new lower in, notice how the sleeve fits around the ball-joint lip to press it in. You may or may use the same set of accessories as me as there are multiple combinations possible; this is just the way I did it.
Put snap rings around the bottoms of the lower ball joints if supplied (some are some aren’t)
I forgot to take pictures of actually installing the knuckles and torquing them but this should be fairly straight forward.
The bottom is 70 ft-lbs, and the top should be about 100 ft-lbs, I didn’t install new sleeves but a this is a good site for reference: (pages 7-9) http://126.96.36.199/mmimages/jeepdoc...balljoints.pdf
Don’t forget to install the cotter pins in the upper nuts.
U-joints can easily be changed with a vise, or the socket and hammer way, but I figured; while I had the press, why not use it. So first you must remove the u-joint retaining clips with a hammer and screw driver. Then, using the ball-joint/u-joint press as shown, press out the u-joint to one side, none of the extra pieces are required for this. When the u-joint is about as far as the axle-shaft ear will allow, take off the press, and try to remove the protruding u-joint cap with a set of channel locks. Once the cap is off, reverse the press and press the u-joint back the way it came, you will then be able to remove the opposite u-joint cap. With both u-joint caps off the shafts can be separated.
Take whichever shaft has the u-joint and press it out as shown. (I have put the caps back on the free side in this picture because I’m saving the u-joint for a spare)
Now you’re ready for the new u-joints, take two opposite caps off so you can finagle (yes finagle) the u-joint into the ears, then push the caps in from the outside first by hand, then lightly tap with a hammer. Make sure the u-joint can slide either way, so that you know no needle bearings will be crushed.
Press on both sides (I used the saucer thing here to make sure both sides were pressing), once one cap is in just far enough to insert a retaining clip STOP and insert it, then remove the press, put the open end on the side where the clip was just inserted. Press in the opposite cap until its retaining clip can be inserted as well.
4.56 Ring and Pinion:
A bit more complicated than the average wrencher wants to tackle, so for this section I’m just sharing what I did, rather than a full on walk through.
I measured the shims that came with my overhaul kit, with my grandfathers old calipers that he gave me so they might be a bit off, and got the following (and this is my own terminology):
Pinion shims: 0.03”, 0.01”, 0.005” [large, medium, small]
Carrier shims (between inner race and carrier): 0.03”, 0.01”, 0.005” [large, medium, small]
Bearing shims: 0.01”, 0.005”, 0.003” [large, medium, small]
**During the gearing process leave the pinion seal for last so you don’t screw it up while trying different preloads
**Also remember the orientation of your bearing caps, they need to be put back exactly as they came out.
**I didn’t notice until way late in the gearing process that I accidentally had two pinion nut washers on the yoke, I don’t know if it would throw anything off for your process**
I placed two small carrier shims under each of the carrier bearings and pressed them onto the carrier, because you know your going to be shimming a lot later so why not put some here so there’s not a huge stack on the outside later. Do this very slowly and make sure the bearings are going on straight.
I installed a lockrite locker and this must be done before installing the ring gear, it was easily installed using their directions so I won’t cover that. If you are running an open carrier you should also install the spiders at this time as the cross shaft will not clear the ring gear. Here the carrier is pictured with the locker installed, and that’s a 7/32” roll pin by the way, kinda tough to find.
Put a bit of lock-tite on the ring gear bolts and hand thread.
Once they are all hand threaded snug them up by hand (in a star pattern like lug nuts) to draw the ring up to the carrier (deep gear carrier btw).
Torque ring gear bolts to 55 ft-lb in this case
Knocking out the old inner pinion bearing race with a screwdriver, from the back of the housing.
Knocking out the outer pinion bearing race from the front of the housing (the tubing is aluminum, don’t worry)
I wised up…..just a bit, and bought aluminum rod in place of a brass punch so as not to damage the new bearing races as I punched them in (not shown).
As for pinion depth, rather than putting shims under the inner pinion bearing (between it, the slinger and the head) I put them between the inner bearing’s outer race and the housing. I seem to recall seeing 27 thousandths on the caliper for the shims I put in, but it must have been 25 thousandths, so two mediums and a small (for 4.56s), but at the end of all this, the pinion could have been a bit closer, so try what you will. When punching in the outer bearing’s outer race don’t put shims between it and the housing.
The inner pinion bearing should be pressed on with the oil slinger between it and the pinion head as shown.
The inner pinion bearing is an interference fit (i.e. needs to be pressed on/off) where as the outer pinion bearing is not, so for ease of setting bearing pre-load sand the pinion shaft (just a small bit, the bearing still needs to be tough to slide on and off) above the shoulder with emery paper or a very fine grit sand paper (I used 220), I covered the inner pinion bearing with saran wrap so no shavings would get into it. (Now this is what I, and some of the fellas I tool around with do, but I've been informed that this is not a common practice, don't do it if you're not comfortable doing so)
I put 4 small pinion shims on the shoulder of the pinion for the pre-load like shown.
Another view for reference:
Push the outer bearing on.
Put the outer slinger on.
Put the yoke on (donít forget the washer) remember without the seal for now, and tighten down a bit (you can set the preload here temporarily if you want [will do it later], but just make sure the pinionís not loose) so we can move on to setting the backlash.
Now that your pinion is ready, drop in the carrier (obviously with the races on), donít know why I took the picture with Baltimoreís finest in there, but regardless a ring and pinion set up can get frustrating without slight intoxication (for me anyways, this was my 3rd)
A quick dumbed down explanation of backlash is how tightly the gears mesh. You will want a decent carrier pre-load; once again this is something I did by feel (because thatís the way I was taught). You want the carrier to be in there pretty damn tight (it would be preferable to use a case spreader, but I didnít have one); you shouldnít be able to have the carrier easily slide out.
As for setting the backlash itself; recall that I said I put on two small shims under each carrier bearing, the idea is to have the bigger shims on the outside so when you tap the carrier in (with a dead-blow or rubber mallet) you donít bend any shims, either that or try to sandwich the smaller shims between bigger shims. On top of the two small shims under each bearing, I ended up with two large and two medium on the left (long-side) between the race and housing; on the right (short-side) I ended up with one large and one medium shim between the race and the housing. And as I mentioned before this is just what I ended up with, hopefully this just provides a starting point for anyone doing 4.56ís, yours may be different. To check your backlash make sure: you have the bearing caps on and torqued (60 ft-lbs for a 44); all your shims are in; and the pinion nut is on and its pre-load is either set or close. I had my backlash set correctly by hand (thatís the way I learned [ďyou want to hear the gears clunk but see relatively no movement of the ring gearĒ]) but at the suggestion of many people I went out and got a dial indicator and magnetic base. Make sure the pinion does not rotate at all during this process; rotate the carrier in the reverse direction ever so slightly until it clunks against the stationary pinion gear. With you magnetic base/dial indicator attached to the housing place the tip of the dial indicator perpendicular to the drive side (non-sloped side) of the outer-most point of a tooth. Make sure that the dial indicators tip is touching the tooth and zero it. Once again with the pinion stationary very easily rotate the carrier forward until it easily clunks against the next pinion tooth, and see what the dial indicator reads. Here are my readings, I had managed to get it perfect by feel (although youíd be better off closer to .006 than .010, as clearances open with time):
Yukon specifies 6-10 thousandths and I had 8. Yukon also says that backlash will change .007 for every .010 that the carrier is moved so for instance if you wanted to decrease backlash by .007, the carrier should be moved .010 closer to the pinion. Once you have the backlash you want put on the bearing caps in the same orientation they came off and torque to 60 ft-lbs.
Once youíve found the proper carrier bearing shimming for the backlash and the bearing caps on, its time to move on to checking your pattern, if your pinion preload isnít already set, set it now, Yukon recommends 14-19 in-lbs, tighten slowly (I used an impact and just tapped the trigger) and check the pre-load constantly as you donít want to crush the rollers in the bearings. In checking pre-load the objective is to give the yoke an easy spin and try to keep it going with a torque-wrench set at your goal torque. For example if you have the torque-wrench set at the max torque allowed (19 in-lbs) then give the yoke a spin and try to continue the spin via force on the torque-wrench, if it clicks, the pre-load is too high and you need to loosen the pinion nut a bit. The same goes for the other end of the spectrum; if the wrench is set at 14 and wonít click upon spinning, then the nut is too loose and needs to be tightened.
Time to test your pattern; slather gear marking compound on both sides of 4 or 5 ring gear teeth. Then place a substantial amount of drag on the ring gear (like a hand on the ring gear and lean into it) this is to get a nice clear pattern, and you or a friend turn the pinion so that the marked area goes through the pinion twice foreword, and be sure to do two rotations backwards as well. Here are my patterns; the pinions just a bit too far away but itís acceptable, I could have fought with it more but its hard to get a happy medium between backlash and a good pattern without wanting to kill yourself.
Yukons whole gear install manual can be seen here: http://www.yukongear.com/Downloads/T...structions.pdf use the acceptable patterns pictures to help you along.
Once youíre satisfied with your pattern, take the pinion nut and yoke off and tap the pinion seal in carefully until its seated with a dead blow or rubber mallet like shown:
Then re-set the pre-load, yea I know that sucks.
*****it was here that I realized I had two pinion washers on the yoke for some reason (one must have been stuck on there and covered in grime so I didnít see it) hopefully that wont throw anything off for you, but I donít know******
So follow the pre-load instructions again, re-check the bearing cap torque, throw the cover on and fill her up with gear oil. As for break-in, Yukon suggests driving only 15-20 miles with the gears moving, then stop to let them cool for a long while, Yukon also recommends that you donít tow for 500mi and that after 500mi the gear oil should be changed. Congrats youíre done!
While the carrier is out you might as well replace the axle seals. This is pretty simple using a method I’ve seen online (gojeep or madxj maybe? I don’t recall, it was a few year back), stack a bunch of extensions together and throw a 36mm (Dana 30 axle nut size) socket on the end. Feed it down an axle tube and hit the end with a dead blow to knock out the axle seal into the diff housing (or you could just use a seal puller, but I think this is cleaner and easier).
And its pretty much the same deal putting the new ones in, just try to keep them as straight as possible so they don’t get messed up, and seat them completely. This is a straightforward process and should be pretty simple.
Once one side is in, feed the extensions only through the new seal, and put the socket on the extensions within the housing to do the second new seal.
All buttoned up and ready for shafts and spindles:
Installing Shafts and Spindles:
The following seals and spacers should come with the new spindles.
Take the old [spindle] seal off the stub shaft:
Pry off the old little plastic spacer:
Slide on the new plastic spacer:
Push the new seal onto the stub shaft:
Now slide the short and long side shafts in easily (you may have to rotate just a bit as you do so to align the shaft splines with those of the spiders or locker in my case)
I should make note here that I had to clearance the opening in the knuckle just a bit with a dremel and sanding cylinder to get the shafts through….why? I don’t know.
Now for the spindles:
Slip the spindle over the stub shaft and tap the new spindle onto the knuckle slowly and easily with a dead blow so as to be sure you aren’t boogering up the threads on the knuckle studs during the process:
Put on the brake caliper bracket as shown over top of the spindle (this view is from the drivers side, so on the passenger side the bracket will face the rear of the vehicle as well), the grease on the shaft is just from the bearing inside the spindle.
Now torque down the 6 spindle stud nuts to 50 ft-lbs or so, in a star pattern just like lug nuts so ad to properly seat the spindle. Now you’re ready to install the hub/rotor assembly.
Installing the Hub/Rotor Assembly:
Since I bought new hub/rotor assemblies the outer bearing races were already installed in the hub, but if you’re doing it your self just tap them in either with a bearing race punch or a brass punch or aluminum punch like I used earlier. If I remember correctly the inner hub bearing is the bigger one (just drop it into the race to see which one fits correctly). You are going to need to install the inner bearing before installing the rear hub seal because the bearing will not fit through it once the seal is on.
First pack the bearing completely with high temperature wheel bearing grease (can be found at autozone and the like) to pack a bearing put a huge glob of the grease in your hand and rotate all the rollers through it and try to scrape some under the roller retainer as well, basically get as much grease in as you can:
Now with the long side of the hub facing the floor, drop the inner bearing into its outer race, and tap the hub seal on as shown with a dead blow or rubber mallet evenly until it is fully seated, trapping the bearing inside (For some reason PartsMike sent me seals that were too big so I had to get these from the local auto parts store)
Now pick up the whole assembly and slide it onto the spindle.
With the hub on, slide the outer bearing onto the spindle and seat it into it’s race, them thread the inner hub nut on (the one with the small pin) with the pin facing towards you, and while spinning the hub torque it to 50 ft-lbs, once it is torqued, back it off ¼ turn.
Slide the washer with holes on, it has a tab that makes sure it goes on a certain way, if the pin will not go into one of the holes (which it must) try flipping it around (worked for me) but if that doesn’t work either back the inner hub nut off just a bit, don’t tighten it more.
Now thread the outer hub nut onto the spindle and torque it to 60 ft-lbs:
Now you’re ready to install the locking hubs.
Installing Locking Hubs:
I decided to just go all out and get Warn Premium locking hubs, I’ve been told there’s no difference between them and the standards but I got them on a deal anyways. This is easy using warns directions but I figured I’d take a few pictures anyways.
First thread two of the small allen head bolts into the inner mechanism like shown and insert it into the hub, you may have to “finagle” a bit to get the axle-shaft splines and hub splines to match the mechanism:
Push the mechanism in as far as possible and install the provided snap ring onto the axle shaft (if you the axle shaft isn’t far enough out, try putting a pry bar through the u-joint area of the axle shaft within the knuckle and pry it towards you):
Now install push the provided outer snap ring into the groove of the hub, this keeps the mechanism in the hub (kind of important):
Take out the two allen head bolts, put all six into the locking mechanism, line up the holes with the inner mechanism and tighten down in a star pattern with a 9/64” allen wrench:
The installation of them should be fairly straight forward; I forgot to take pictures though. I got a new set of calipers that were for a 1990 (just what I told the parts guy) and require an 11mm banjo bolt that was kind of tough to find. I kept the YJ brake lines that I was already using and just drilled out the opening a bit and used the new copper washers that came with the banjo bolt. When tightening the caliper bolts, torque them to around 25 ft-lbs, and the hex head on them is 3/8” by the way.
Well that’s as far as I go, I just threw the old tie-rod on and threw the axle under the jeep, I ended up using a Wagoneer draglink and threaded it into the stock XJ joint that was at the pittman arm, and re-used my rock krawler trackbar. Don’t forget to get an alignment asap. Here are some pictures of the install:
The new hotness:
Old destroyed 30 ready to come out:
Next to the old destroyed 30:
My buddy hard at work supervising with a beer:
New 44 in:
On the road:
Kinda flopped on second run and destroyed a shaft, so Alloy Usa chromolys and Yukon superjoints are an the way:
If I’ve missed anything, you believe anything is wrong or should be changed, please PM me and let me know, I am human after all.
your last 6-7 pics are just red Xs though, but ill definately be using this and sierra drifters thread a lot for my build
but how did you get it to 5X5.5. is the spidertrax an adapter, or did you get chevy hubs or something. i got taken for a ride by some guy on NAXJA, and bought a 6X5.5 to 5X4.5 lug adapter, and it isn't even close to working
[CENTER]1995 fire red XJ, new 4.0, ARB safari snorkel, sye, front DS, aussie locked 8.8 5:13s 38 SXs, trussed/locked 44 front, hydro assist, DOM steering/COLOR]
YJ. 91 body, body off resto, crate chevy 350, 700r tranny, 2 inch springs, SOA, ford 9 rear, dana 44 front, both detroits, cage, 4:88s, and 36X14.50s. strictly street queen