[Easy Gibson]

So yeah, just did my brakes(I don't wanna talk about it) and I noticed a curious lateral movement in my hub. Is that supposed to be like that? I come from only ever previously owning Oldsmobiles, and in those, that would be a bad thing so it sent up a red flag.

So yeah, if I push and pull on my hub I get maybe an 1/8th to a 1/4 of play. What the deal?

[Cherokee2000]

You need a new hub. You can get a good quality Timken one from rockauto.com for about 90$.

Its very easy to install. Just three 12 point bolts, a rented hub puller (just makes it easy) and a long pipe over a breaker bar to remove the hub nut (22mm) and a burly 200 ft-Ibs torque wrench to put the hub nut back on with a new cotter pin.

[Easy Gibson]

If it ain't one thing...

[Ed Rico]

Good advice on the hubs above, except that the large center nut is 36mm. An impact wrench makes life easier in getting this off. I was able to remove both of my front hubs without a bearing puller by bolting the wheel back on after the 3 13mm 12-point bolts were removed from the inner face on the knuckle, then using the wheel as a lever to work the hub out of the knuckle. Finally, I'd recommend you replace both front hubs at the same time, who knows how much life is left in the other one if you just replace the one with perceptible wear now. RockAuto is the place to go for Timken hubs @ $90 each, AutoZone is getting $150 for the same part.

-Ed Rico

[bebout]

Originally Posted by Ed Rico

AutoZone is getting $150 for the same part.

-Ed Rico

Unless you know someone

[bikedude189]

the front should have no play, but the rear should... keep that in mind.

[4.0H.O.XJ]

Originally Posted by Easy Gibson

So yeah, just did my brakes I come from only ever previously owning Oldsmobiles, and in those, that would be a bad thing

Congratulations on being the first poster this week to spell "BRAKES" properly. As a reward for your being able to spell on a third grade level as well as myself, you and I get to destroy your thread talking about OLDSMOBILES.

What kind of Oldsmobiles? Firebreathing Ram air cars? (OAI) 442's? Hurst/Olds? Ramrods? Rallye-olds? A nicely equipped Supreme?....PLEASE DO TELL!

I recently sold a stupid fast 76 442 with an import-toasting high-comp 455, 4:10s, and a 'glide. Previously had a 69 442 with 400/TH400 and 3:42's. All stock, and FAST. Shoulda kept it. .....You?

[FLNICK]

Found this site. Not sure if anyone has ever ordered from them. Was actually thinking about ordering them myself.

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/wheel-bearing-hub-front/Jeep/Cherokee/1ASHS00020/732896/1/?utm_source=google_base&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaig n=google_base_api

[robhollar]

Dont cheep out on wheel bearings. I own a small shop and have seen bearing failure using the cheep ones. I stick with the timkin bearings and you MUST use a torque wrench on the center nut.....Rob

[mmaverick88]

I think my jeep has developed this problem also. I thought my wheel was unbalanced so I put the spare in its place but it still seems to have the problem of it wobbling around. I thought it was the dreaded death wobble but it only seems to come from the right side. Replacing the hub should fix this.

[RockRodHooligan]

Originally Posted by robhollar

Dont cheep out on wheel bearings. I own a small shop and have seen bearing failure using the cheep ones. I stick with the timkin bearings and you MUST use a torque wrench on the center nut.....Rob

Sometimes cheaper is better....
Napa - Napa brand premium hub - $139.69
Autozone - timken hub - $128.99
Advance Auto Parts - National(Federal Mogul) hub - $120.99
O'reilly Auto Parts - National(Federal Mogul) hub(same part number as Advance) - $93.99
Partstrain.com - Timken hub - $78.10

[98CherokeeLTD]

dont mean to hi-jack the thread but I have a question.
a few weeks ago my driver side hub exploded on me while drivin down the highway at about 55mph. hit the brakes to pull over and the pedal went to the floor, no brakes. I got it home, took it all apart, replaced the hub, put everything back together and took it out for a test drive, and the brakes were fine.

any idea why I had NO brakes when the hub exploded but then worked fine after the new one was installed? (I didnt replace anything with the brake assembly) it has me kinda confused

[mcthnif]

Originally Posted by 98CherokeeLTD

dont mean to hi-jack the thread but I have a question.
a few weeks ago my driver side hub exploded on me while drivin down the highway at about 55mph. hit the brakes to pull over and the pedal went to the floor, no brakes. I got it home, took it all apart, replaced the hub, put everything back together and took it out for a test drive, and the brakes were fine.

any idea why I had NO brakes when the hub exploded but then worked fine after the new one was installed? (I didnt replace anything with the brake assembly) it has me kinda confused

That happens during a bearing failure, because the rotor is no longer vertical, so the brake piston gets pushed in, and therefore has to travel a longer distance to engage the pads. Some times that distance is more than the capability of the master cyl, so it runs out of travel. Seen it a lot over the years on frt wheel drive cars belonging to customers, that would just keep driving them. Eventually, the anchor on some vehicles(not XJs)can cut into the rotor, destroying them,

[98CherokeeLTD]

Originally Posted by mcthnif

That happens during a bearing failure, because the rotor is no longer vertical, so the brake piston gets pushed in, and therefore has to travel a longer distance to engage the pads. Some times that distance is more than the capability of the master cyl, so it runs out of travel. Seen it a lot over the years on frt wheel drive cars belonging to customers, that would just keep driving them. Eventually, the anchor on some vehicles(not XJs)can cut into the rotor, destroying them,

well like i said, I replaced the hub the next day, and the problem went away. I was just worried that something else may have caused this problem that I didn't catch onto. thanks for the help!

[robhollar]

Originally Posted by hotrod_hooligan

Sometimes cheaper is better....
Napa - Napa brand premium hub - $139.69
Autozone - timken hub - $128.99
Advance Auto Parts - National(Federal Mogul) hub - $120.99
O'reilly Auto Parts - National(Federal Mogul) hub(same part number as Advance) - $93.99
Partstrain.com - Timken hub - $78.10

I think you dont understand what Im getting at. First Im not sure what year you looked up but at partstrain I looked up a wheel hub for a 96 xj the hub cost 98.74. Now with that said for the same year xj they offer what Id call the cheep part. The are selling replacement brands for 64 bucks. Im not saying not to save money on parts. What i meant to say is not to sacrifice quality but not price.