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Unread 09-27-2013, 06:20 PM   #931
RacerX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RacerX View Post
MotoRad® Fail Safe® - Thermostat
Part # 7200-195
Line: MCS

UPC: 799304700951

that's the info @ O'reilles page (nominal 195F)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Charley3 View Post
Hmm. Thanks for trying, but I would NOT run a Fail Safe 195F because it might lock open at 210F or 215F. My partial grill cover might get me up to 210F, even with a 195F stat, and 210F is where I want to run. It will have occasional Summer visits to 215F or 216F crawling up hills on hottest Summer days.

===

However, I did find a Motorad series 383 that is 205F rated. Part number 383-205. I suspect it fits Jeep 4L engines. I need to verify fit.

Carves PM'd me that the Motorad 2000-205 stat would probably fit 4L Jeeps. It's a 205F. I need to verify fit.

Dino's website says there is a Robert Shaw series 330 high flow 205F stat that fits 4L Jeep engines. The RS 330 high flow series includes temp choices of: 160F, 180F, 195F, and 205F.

I like the "high flow" designation because if it gets above 210F to 215F wheeling on a Summer day, the stat has the flow capability to catch up fast and keep it always under 220F, probably always under 216F, even crawling on hottest Summer days. It'd let me run near 210F most of time, and never above 216F (my electric fan kicks on at 215F).

Dino's website said a 220F is OK and normal (even with a 180F or 195F stat)

do you know anything about Murray® brand 'stats??? (they are about 1/2 price & I'm poor)

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Unread 09-30-2013, 04:01 PM   #932
Mike934
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Originally Posted by Newtons3 View Post
The .043 head gasket is sort of useless by itself. The factory cams are lazy and bleed off compression. If a compression bump is what you are looking for, you can double down with a really good cam swap. I have stock deck height, .043 head gasket, and a shaved head ( but lots of chamber porting so that about equals out). With that many changes, it's hard to quantify the contribution of each. We are about to do a gasket on a friend's Cherokee, not because it needs it, but because the motor is out and we are taking the opportunity to "freshen it up"; bearings, gaskets, oil pump, valve springs, and seals. Since I owned this Cherokee up until three days ago, I know what it was like. I'll try to follow and see if there are any changes afterwards.

Edit: I am also trying to convince him that if we have to pull pistons, we should deck the block. I am shooting for .003 out of the hole for .040 quench and the resulting compression bump.

I run the old 232 cran . 3.500" stroke. .060 over to unshroud the valves. Sbc valvs, ported head, stock 96 cam advanced 4*. Gonna do 1.7 rollers screams, runs of 87, Better on 91. Better mileage.d
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Unread 09-30-2013, 06:34 PM   #933
Newtons3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike934 View Post
I run the old 232 cran . 3.500" stroke. .060 over to unshroud the valves. Sbc valvs, ported head, stock 96 cam advanced 4*. Gonna do 1.7 rollers screams, runs of 87, Better on 91. Better mileage.d
Sounds like a good mini-stroker. There is a lot to be gained in the head and cam still, though. I'm trying to build a 5.0 long rod right now. Hoping to achieve similar results in my heavier vehicle.
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Unread 10-01-2013, 12:23 AM   #934
Charley3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RacerX View Post
do you know anything about Murray® brand 'stats??? (they are about 1/2 price & I'm poor)
No. Sorry I don't know about Murray. But a 205F Gates 33010 is good. That's what I have. There might be better, but it's pretty good, and I think it cost me $3.67 + shipping from RockAuto.com.

The ACDelco 205F part 12T1F cost $3.47 + shipping from RockAuto.com

Those ^ are both premium stats for very low cost.

An ultra premium stat is the 205F Motorad 2000-205 High Flow Thermostat. It only costs $3.41 + shipping from Davesdiscountautoparts.com

P.S. - don't run a Motorad Fail Safe stat.

So you can easily afford a good stat.

However, can you afford a two (or more) core radiator to go with it? My Jeep came with a 2 core tow package radiator. So I never had to worry about it.
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Unread 10-01-2013, 11:53 AM   #935
ninjakid
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Finally filled it up and I'm getting a whopping 15.8 mpg.
I think I know the reason, I just don't know what to do to fix the issues.
That aside, it handles very well on the highway now and will glide forever with some momentum.

I used to think my odometer was off but I'm starting to think otherwise now.
I've tested on various highways using the mile markers and I get rather differentk results each time.
I timed the jeep on the highway with cruise control on a totally straight and flat highway going 60.3 (closest I could get to 60) according to my ultra-gauge and using a timer it took between 59-61 seconds at that speed to go a mile.

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Unread 10-01-2013, 12:47 PM   #936
longtro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newtons3 View Post
I'll try to follow and see if there are any changes afterwards.

Edit: I am also trying to convince him that if we have to pull pistons, we should deck the block. I am shooting for .003 out of the hole for .040 quench and the resulting compression bump.
I like this!!

: )

curious about increaded compression if I ever need to get my head off..
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Unread 10-01-2013, 12:57 PM   #937
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I feel liek the tstat discussion could be it's own thread!!! : ) I have not even had one in my jeep for the first couple of months. I know i know stupid but it was getting up to a reasonable temp most of the time.. I have the tstat now and hope to put it in tomorrow...

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaSupercharger View Post
However, that only means that its time to start throwing on some aero-mods and a S-ton of ghetto plexi-glass to see what works for highway mpg
photo's?? sorry if you already posted them I am way behind on the thread.

RE: ravs's pics.

AWesome!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by mschi772 View Post
How about attaching it in some way as to make it quick to remove/install so that you can pop it on and off as needed?
I want an air dam but would need it to be removeable I have already smashed the stock one a couple of times.

I would like to check out the posts of the areo modling but need to read up more. the one youtube posted of the under carriage and skid plate did no take into consideration any + or - effect from the engine bay. which could be dramatice with or with out the hood vents : ) (which is some thing I plan to add for summer wheeling.
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Unread 10-01-2013, 02:30 PM   #938
Charley3
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Originally Posted by longtro View Post
I want an air dam but would need it to be removeable I have already smashed the stock one a couple of times.
I bought the Chevy S10 plastic air dam to extend my air dam lower, but I think it'd get ripped on on my next wheeling adventure.

So I've been thinking of air dam solutions that I think would work for wheeling.

Idea 1) A flexible rubber air dam that is just stiff enough to resist wind pressure, but flexible enough to bend out of the way off road. My Buick has a 1" lowered front end and its air dam rubs every parking stop and curb I pull up to, and often gets folded/bent out of the way by parking stops, but it held up to that for 17 years without damage, until one day I parked at local UPS country billy store with home made parking stops made of rail road ties with spikes holding them in place. One spike was sticking up a couple inches above the railroad tie, and it snagged my rubber air dam and tore it a little, but even that didn't ruin it.

So why not put a flexible rubber air dam on front of XJ? Why use stiff plastic?

Idea 2) Add a factory front skidplate. That's a great air dam and skid plate in one.

Idea 3) I have a factory front skidplate, and am now thinking of adding a 2" or 3" rubber extension to bottom edge. The extension would be flexible rubber and follow the angle of the skid plate as a flexible extension. Then all air would be directed under front diff. When off road, the rubber can bend out of the way as needed.
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Unread 10-01-2013, 04:35 PM   #939
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Considering any dam you make out of rubber will probably only be a few inches tall at most (I assume), I think it would be plenty strong to redirect wind while still being flexible enough to take a hit. Plus, it's just a strip of rubber; if it does get chewed-up eventually, you just replace it with some new stuff someday. I like the idea. A little flex as air speed increases could be extra beneficial. The thing you'll have to watch-out for is if that rubber starts to flap in the wind. Flapping/shaking/shuddering in the wind = turbulence = drag = bad (thicker and/or stiffer material would probably be the simple solution for this). As long as it remains solid/stiff, it's doing its job.
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Unread 10-01-2013, 05:40 PM   #940
Charley3
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Originally Posted by mschi772 View Post
Considering any dam you make out of rubber will probably only be a few inches tall at most (I assume), I think it would be plenty strong to redirect wind while still being flexible enough to take a hit. Plus, it's just a strip of rubber; if it does get chewed-up eventually, you just replace it with some new stuff someday. I like the idea. A little flex as air speed increases could be extra beneficial. The thing you'll have to watch-out for is if that rubber starts to flap in the wind. Flapping/shaking/shuddering in the wind = turbulence = drag = bad (thicker and/or stiffer material would probably be the simple solution for this). As long as it remains solid/stiff, it's doing its job.
Agreed.

It works great on my lowered Buick that's dragged its flexible rubber air dam over thousands of curbs and parking stops over last 17 years.

So I think would also work on my XJ on & off road.
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Unread 10-01-2013, 11:31 PM   #941
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Originally Posted by Newtons3 View Post
Sounds like a good mini-stroker. There is a lot to be gained in the head and cam still, though. I'm trying to build a 5.0 long rod right now. Hoping to achieve similar results in my heavier vehicle.
I was shooting for 100% oem reliability + a bit. Quiet as all get out & it runs on the stock cam still. I was going to run it with a mopar 229 but decided not to after all.
Little things inside like Johnson lifters & a rollmaster billet dual roller timing set. The lifters I chose because the lifter comparison thread on the stroker site. Lunati are the same just cost more....Johnson's were 60 bucks. The cloyes dual roller still runs cast gears and cost 12 bucks more than the rollmaster which is fully billet. Coated pistons, 3 angle back cut on the valves.
Head flows 223.8cfm intake at .500 & 178.2cfm exhaust @ 28inh20 & lost no flow anywhere, only gained. With small 1.94 & 1.55 sized valves. To date I believe its the highest flow numbers I've seen or found. About 80 hrs in to it. Wasnt cheap but it's a screamer.

I thnink I could gain more with a bigger cam, but that entails higher spring pressure ect. I built my motor towards mileage, more power for a daily ring in every condition. A huge cam wasn't what it needed. Online dyno sims which seem to be pretty accurate...LSx guys love it and use it for comparing cams.
It should 250/315 while stock was 191/218. I'd guess I'm close to 230ish/290ish. It rips & Hangs with my buddies golen 4.6 setup!
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Unread 10-02-2013, 05:46 AM   #942
DPH1LLY
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So I've done all my basic maintenance routine (cap, wires, plugs, oil, etc.) and my jeep is in great mechanical shape I'd like to think anyways. However I'm only getting 12-13 mpg and I'm STOCK. Any big things you guys recommend to check that could make a big difference? Thanks in advance guys

94 xj 2-door auto
image-421458182.jpg

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Unread 10-02-2013, 06:02 AM   #943
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Originally Posted by DPH1LLY View Post
So I've done all my basic maintenance routine (cap, wires, plugs, oil, etc.) and my jeep is in great mechanical shape I'd like to think anyways. However I'm only getting 12-13 mpg and I'm STOCK. Any big things you guys recommend to check that could make a big difference? Thanks in advance guys

94 xj 2-door auto
No offense, but peruse the thread or search the web. It's all there and more; you'll likely learn a lot of good stuff along the way. And I regret to inform you that while sometimes big MPG losses can be attributed to one or two big things, more often than not, it's a lot of little things all adding-up. How you drive can have a big impact especially with our 4.0/AW4 combo; if you have a lead foot, that 4.0 won't hesitate to guzzle a ton of gas. As I tell everyone as well: make sure your calculation is actually accurate--many people don't calculate MPG the way they should or don't realize that they're basing it on bad numbers because their speedo/odo/trip is not accurate.

Things this thread may not have covered:
At 140k, if you haven't replaced any sensors (IAC, TPS, O2, etc) it may be worthwhile to check them and/or replace them. Resetting the computer may also be helpful especially if sensors get changed (make sure you make sure there aren't any current codes; don't always assume the Check Engine light hasn't burnt-out). Fresh grounds and maybe even as far as fresh battery cables as well depending on your current cables' condition.
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Unread 10-02-2013, 06:11 AM   #944
ninjakid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPH1LLY View Post
So I've done all my basic maintenance routine (cap, wires, plugs, oil, etc.) and my jeep is in great mechanical shape I'd like to think anyways. However I'm only getting 12-13 mpg and I'm STOCK. Any big things you guys recommend to check that could make a big difference? Thanks in advance guys

94 xj 2-door auto
Have you pulled codes or cleaned up all your grounds?
If you had some free time you could use a multimeter and test all your sensors to make sure they are in good shape.
I can tell you from experience you can have a mechanically sound jeep and do stuff to modify aerodynamics but electrical issues will mess with everything.

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Unread 10-02-2013, 06:30 AM   #945
DPH1LLY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mschi772
No offense, but peruse the thread or search the web. It's all there and more; you'll likely learn a lot of good stuff along the way. And I regret to inform you that while sometimes big MPG losses can be attributed to one or two big things, more often than not, it's a lot of little things all adding-up. How you drive can have a big impact especially with our 4.0/AW4 combo; if you have a lead foot, that 4.0 won't hesitate to guzzle a ton of gas. As I tell everyone as well: make sure your calculation is actually accurate--many people don't calculate MPG the way they should or don't realize that they're basing it on bad numbers because their speedo/odo/trip is not accurate. Things this thread may not have covered: At 140k, if you haven't replaced any sensors (IAC, TPS, O2, etc) it may be worthwhile to check them and/or replace them. Resetting the computer may also be helpful especially if sensors get changed (make sure you make sure there aren't any current codes; don't always assume the Check Engine light hasn't burnt-out). Fresh grounds and maybe even as far as fresh battery cables as well depending on your current cables' condition.
Yeah man I have been searching around, and I've done my sensors which is funny you said 140k because that's what I rolled this week, haha. I'm aware that it's a multiple of little things 9/10 times but I was curious if anyone had anything big that was flying by my head, didn't mean to come off as lazy. But I've even claculating my MPG for months now averaging at a constant 13 that's why I thought I'd ask. I think I'm gonna try resetting the computer though, that's a good idea. Because I don't have a lead foot for the reason that I'm getting 13 mpg, haha!
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