My ACTUAL Evaporator/Heater Core Removal/Installation Thread..... - Page 3

ottomobile1 · 12-12-2008, 12:20 AM

also, when taking out the bolts along the top of the firewall that hold that dash in- be very careful- they have a very shallow head and the ratchet might slip off and smack your windshield. and put not one but two cracks in it, in a perfect crosshair fashion.

dameono4 · 01-13-2009, 09:17 PM

just did the heater core exploration/deconstruction/reconstruction process and this thread was used during the whole process. Thank you for making this for everyone and thanks again from me. And I did not pull the steering column, but kinda wish i did as it probably would have been easier putting the hvac box back in.

thanks, chris.

R. Potts · 01-25-2009, 03:07 AM

my buddy and i just replaced the heater core in my jeep, and we ran into the same problem. put everything back together, and then it leaked, so we took it all apart again and had to get a new core. the first time we took everything apart, but the second go around, we left the steering column and just unscrew the dash and were still able to get the hvac unit out. it was a lot easier the second time

but i hope to never do it again.

jeep98KY · 02-21-2009, 02:05 PM

I am replacing the heater core and the evap on my 98 wrangler sahara. I contacted a local dealership about the foam seals around the evap/heater tube. They told me they could not find them, I was wondering if anyone had part numbers or could send me a link to purchase them online. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

jjou812 · 05-18-2009, 11:43 PM

I just did it and with your instructions and pics it was easier than i thought.
Thanx!

I didn't remove the steering wheel from the column. I removed the whole column. The 2 shafts just slip together near the steering box. That avoids removing the airbag and using a puller on the steering wheel.

AutoZone has that spring lock tool for disconnecting the refrig lines for $10. When you reassemble the lines, make sure you push them together so they lock, then put the clip on. Napa has a seal kit which includes new springs.

All from Napa in Mechanicsburg, PA:
Evaporator- $125.
Heater core- $70.
Refrig line seal kit- $10.
Accumulator- $40.

BretIron · 05-21-2009, 06:03 PM

I'm getting everything to replace my evap and heater core on my '01 XJ. Having trouble finding suppliers for the foam and seals you replaced... any direction would be greatly appreciated.

colt933 · 05-22-2009, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BretIron

I'm getting everything to replace my evap and heater core on my '01 XJ. Having trouble finding suppliers for the foam and seals you replaced... any direction would be greatly appreciated.

The dealer has a foam/seal/insulation kit for the heater core.

Auto parts stores have the o-rings for the AC lines.

wyojeep92 · 06-17-2009, 06:53 PM

geez.....i got upset today when i found out how much it was going to cost to fix, and now that i know what all has to be done to fix it, i almost want to pay 900 dollars to have it done

j_dynomite · 06-23-2009, 06:17 PM

Awesome Write-Up...I'm getting ready to tackle this beast with Manual in Hand.

lathan888 · 06-24-2009, 04:51 PM

Excellent write up, but seeing this just makes me think paying for this repair to be done at a shop would be worthwhile...what a job!

dmm219 · 06-25-2009, 02:55 PM

Where were you about a year ago?

This brings back memories of labor day last year...I had to do this TWICE last year...once on a 98 XJ and then on a 96 ZJ.

All I'll add, you don't really need to remove the seats, steering column or dash completely. I was able to easily get the box out by just dropping the column. You can pull the dash far enough away from the fire wall to get the box out.

Its always a good idea to totally clean out the box while you are in there...replace EVERYHING, and add some extra screening to your fresh air intake to keep crap from getting down there and causing future havoc with your evap core.

With the massive heat wave we have right now, I am SO happy I did these jobs last year...they are a lot of work, but in DC, I saved over $3000 doing it myself. $3000 for 2 weekends worth of work is totally worth it in my book...

kwsommer · 06-27-2009, 07:52 PM

First, you really saved me here. This information was invaluable in getting my heater core replaced. I just finished and am putting the dash back on. There appears to be a spare connector in the area of the radio, climate control, power center. The wires leading to it are lt blu (w/wht), red (w/wht), and black. There are no connectors like that in the area and nothing that seems to cross to the passenger side. Do you know if it's spare or do you have a wiring diagram for that area?

Bryce99XJ · 07-05-2009, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xjguy98

When replacing either or both of these, all the foam rubber seals need to be transferred over to the new part. Be careful when taking them off because I don't know of any part numbers for them.

Mine was the heater core that was leaking and destroyed the foam strip around the heater core. Can I just use some kind of weatherstripping or like the sticky back foam that is used between camper shells and truck bed rails??

bret4 · 07-06-2009, 03:18 PM

I'm working on mine right now. I didn't want to remove the whole dash so I am doing what another guy did. I removed the glove box and cut the plastic around the evaporator. Then I cut the lower part of the dash in about the center where the glove box mounted. Now there is clearance to get the core out. The core hung up on the flared tubes on the engine side where the tubes go through the rubber in the firewall. I crushed the tubes with vise grips to make it easier to pull the core out. To get the new one in I am going to cut the holes a little bigger to make it easy to push them through the firewall. After that I'll just seal them with some RTV. Being a cheap way out I am going to just use foam rubber weather strip on the new core in the same places the old core had a foam seal on it. There was Styrofoam on the bottom of the old core that fell apart when it was removed. I think I will just use more foam weather strip in the bottom where the foam was.

It's still a bit of work but there is less chance of forgetting to plug a wire in. Also less chance of breaking some plastic dash parts pulling them apart. Jeep really screwed up making this thing. It wouldn't have taken much to make an access panel to get this thing out. Someone should make a cover to seal the hole after you cut the air box to remove the core. Bet they would sell a bunch of them.

I'm sure doing it the way I am doing it isn't for everyone. It's the hack job way. I just couldn't see taking the whole dash out of my jeep. It's old enough that it didn't hurt that much to take a saw to it. It also beats the $900 the shop wanted to do the job. And you know they would have found more things to replace in the A/C system to get that price up even more.

Jeep Cherokee · 07-06-2009, 05:44 PM

Best write up ever! I'll be printing this one out!

05-18-2009, 11:43 PM	#35
jjou812 Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Central PA Posts: 1 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	I just did it and with your instructions and pics it was easier than i thought. Thanx! I didn't remove the steering wheel from the column. I removed the whole column. The 2 shafts just slip together near the steering box. That avoids removing the airbag and using a puller on the steering wheel. AutoZone has that spring lock tool for disconnecting the refrig lines for $10. When you reassemble the lines, make sure you push them together so they lock, then put the clip on. Napa has a seal kit which includes new springs. All from Napa in Mechanicsburg, PA: Evaporator- $125. Heater core- $70. Refrig line seal kit- $10. Accumulator- $40. Last edited by jjou812; 05-23-2009 at 07:21 AM..

06-25-2009, 02:55 PM	#41
dmm219 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: NOVA Posts: 62 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	Where were you about a year ago? This brings back memories of labor day last year...I had to do this TWICE last year...once on a 98 XJ and then on a 96 ZJ. All I'll add, you don't really need to remove the seats, steering column or dash completely. I was able to easily get the box out by just dropping the column. You can pull the dash far enough away from the fire wall to get the box out. Its always a good idea to totally clean out the box while you are in there...replace EVERYHING, and add some extra screening to your fresh air intake to keep crap from getting down there and causing future havoc with your evap core. With the massive heat wave we have right now, I am SO happy I did these jobs last year...they are a lot of work, but in DC, I saved over $3000 doing it myself. $3000 for 2 weekends worth of work is totally worth it in my book...

06-27-2009, 07:52 PM	#42
kwsommer Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Oregon Posts: 1 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	First, you really saved me here. This information was invaluable in getting my heater core replaced. I just finished and am putting the dash back on. There appears to be a spare connector in the area of the radio, climate control, power center. The wires leading to it are lt blu (w/wht), red (w/wht), and black. There are no connectors like that in the area and nothing that seems to cross to the passenger side. Do you know if it's spare or do you have a wiring diagram for that area?