[unabashedpraise]

I am looking to buy a Cherokee for the family but also want to get the most out of my money. With so many available to purchase I want to be picky about the year as well as everything else; if '94 is the best because the drive train is best then I'll be waiting for the right '94. If it's a '96...yada, yada. I want to know the best stock years and trim levels, I'm not asking for mod ideas, just the best platform for all round capabilities and reliability.

The reason for buying is not to traverse boulder strewn trails or mud bogs. I want a vehicle that is capable of carrying my family (3 + dog), all our gear, and pull a small trailer with a pintle hitch that weighs about 1000 # yet still able to get us down and up and over ditches and embankments.

I'm not a total goober, I'm thinking a 2-3" lift will be required along with 30" tires after we get used to the vehicle and of course some trails are in order!

I have my ideas from researching for hours....and hours....and hours...and- well you get the picture. Now I wanna pick the brains of those who own and drive 'em.

Requirements for the daily driver Cherokee: a/c, power windows, cruise, prefer tow package with auto tranny cooler.

[XJ2000]

Most say that '96 and '99 are the two best years. '00-'01 have their minor (stress on minor) quirks, and from the sounds of it they won't really bother you all that much since they're more intrusive during modification.

Honestly, my best advice is to find the newest XJ with the least miles, in the best condition. You'll hear about how the '00-'01 have "a head that cracks" - which quite honestly doesn't happen as often as the internet makes it seem.

If I were you I'd find the XJ in the best condition possible (both aethestically and mechanically) and settle on that one.

[justanotherjpr]

00 and 01 are distributorless igniton and will have the 8.25 axle which is much stouter than the D35. 97+ have the most creature comforts.

[badlands1]

Id agree with the previous guys.My dads is a 97 and mines the 2000.Both have rough country 4.5 lift.You couldnt tell a difference in offroading or playing in the feild.Mine has 100,000 less miles than his too.D30 LP is the only draw back for me.

[Jason, aka: Jeepin.com]

Originally Posted by Dassc612

Most say that '96 and '99 are the two best years. '00-'01 have their minor (stress on minor) quirks, and from the sounds of it they won't really bother you all that much since they're more intrusive during modification.

Honestly, my best advice is to find the newest XJ with the least miles, in the best condition. You'll hear about how the '00-'01 have "a head that cracks" - which quite honestly doesn't happen as often as the internet makes it seem.

If I were you I'd find the XJ in the best condition possible (both aethestically and mechanically) and settle on that one.

X2.

To get the options you're looking for, look for Limiteds mostly. Late model Classics and Sports will also often times be optioned with power accessories as well. The tow package will automatically come with a transmission cooler, but they're easy to add in if the vehicle you find doesn't have one already.

The UpCountry package (not the same as the Country trim model) will get you skid plates front to rear, front tow hooks, rear tow hook (if it doesn't have a hitch), and a Limited Slip rear diff. It'll also sit just a smidge taller than a non UC model. The UC package isn't extremely common (though I wouldn't call it "rare" either), and probably won't be listed in a sale info simply because most folks don't know what the package is. If you find an XJ with factory skid plates and tow hooks, chances are it's got the UC option package. Skid plates and tow hooks are easy to add though, so I wouldn't pass up a good deal on a rig you like simply because it doesn't have these parts.

The XJ got a face lift in 1997, and the interior is dramatically different on those vehicles vs 1996 and older, particularly the dash. First thing I'd do is try to decide if you want a new body style or old body style XJ. If you prefer the old body style, then IMHO 1996 is the best year to go with, mainly because you get the ODBII electrical system and if you find one with the Chrysler 8.25" rear axle it's likely to have the stronger 29-spline shafts. For the new body style XJs, 98/99 tend to be the favored years. Again, look for one with a Chrylser 8.25" rear axle.

I'd also shy away from vehicles with ABS, if only because having ABS guarantees that you get the weaker Dana35 rear axle. Not having ABS doesn't guarantee getting the stronger Chrysler 8.25" though.

[Jason, aka: Jeepin.com]

Originally Posted by justanotherjpr

00 and 01 are distributorless igniton and will have the 8.25 axle which is much stouter than the D35. 97+ have the most creature comforts.

Um, no, 2000 and 2001 still got the D35 along side the C8.25. My old 2001 had the D35 rear end.

The only creature comfort(s) that the 1997+ had that wasn't available on older models was that the overhead trip computer on 1997+ displayed stuff like instant and average mpg, whereas the OHC on 1996 and older just displayed temp and direction.

edit: you are a lot more likely to find a 1997+ with a factory CD player though.

[justanotherjpr]

Originally Posted by Jason, aka: Jeepin.com

Um, no, 2000 and 2001 still got the D35 along side the C8.25. My old 2001 had the D35 rear end.

The only creature comfort(s) that the 1997+ had that wasn't available on older models was that the overhead trip computer on 1997+ displayed stuff like instant and average mpg, whereas the OHC on 1996 and older just displayed temp and direction.

edit: you are a lot more likely to find a 1997+ with a factory CD player though.

I stand corrected.

[unabashedpraise]

Originally Posted by justanotherjpr

00 and 01 are distributorless igniton a

What makes this better or worse than the older models?

[danw77]

Originally Posted by unabashedpraise

What makes this better or worse than the older models?

good: generally less maintenance (no moving parts) and no distributor to worry about getting wet.

bad: parts are more expensive and sometimes harder to find.

IMO, it's a wash between the two.

[unabashedpraise]

Can anyone who owns a 00-01 comment about the maintenance on the distributor less system? As a shade tree mechanic I'm only familiar with the distributor system.

[justanotherjpr]

Had my 00 for 2 years, no problems to date with the distributorless ignition. Tune ups are a breeze with no cap, wires, rotator to replace. Love it.

[Jason, aka: Jeepin.com]

Originally Posted by unabashedpraise

Can anyone who owns a 00-01 comment about the maintenance on the distributor less system? As a shade tree mechanic I'm only familiar with the distributor system.

The TJ has had that system since 2000 as well, so all 2000-2006 Wranglers are that way. We've got it in our TJ. It's been maintenance-free for us so far. Since there's no moving parts to the system, there's really not much to maintain anyway. Most modern vehicles have a similar ignition system. Our 2001 WJ has it as well and to my knowledge it's never required any service. Changing the spark plugs isn't quite as easy as simply pulling off a plug boot, but it's not complicated by any means either.

[Gravesdiggerxj]

99 was the last year for the high pinion front axle. If modifying it is something you might do down the road. it is more friendly to lifts and has better ring and pinion strength.

I'll echo what Jason said. shy away from the d35 at all costs.

I'm a fan of distributors just because they are easier to work on for the shadetree mechanic like me. Reliability wise I'd say either is fine. they did introduce more emmisions equipment in 00' so you will have less power than earlier models and finding parts to improve performance will cost you more. i.e. exhaust manifold has a different design with 2 O2 sensors

I've had a pre 97 and now a post 97 and the interior is leaps and bounds above the earlier models. also the dash squeeks less. lol

[jjg214]

Originally Posted by unabashedpraise

Can anyone who owns a 00-01 comment about the maintenance on the distributor less system? As a shade tree mechanic I'm only familiar with the distributor system.

easier in my opinion, just spark wires and plugs, same as with a distributor... but its all computer controlled, so i guess if s**t hit the fan it would be expensive to have fixed...hasn't happened to mine yet though, 2001 with 120k miles.

[jjg214]

Originally Posted by Gravesdiggerxj

I've had a pre 97 and now a post 97 and the interior is leaps and bounds above the earlier models. also the dash squeeks less. lol

you like the pre 97 interior more? surprising, havent met many people that do, my dash doesnt squeak at at all