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Unread 05-22-2013, 04:12 PM   #1
SpecialK2000
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More lift questions....

Hi All, I'm planning lifting my 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport. 4.0 liter. I got some great help regarding which type of axle I have on my jeep. (Chrysler 8.25 Thanks!)

And I've been doing a lot of research on this forum and elsewhere. My research has brought up some more questions:

Looks like I'm going with the Zone 3 inch lift. I like that it comes with new leaf springs and I've read some nice reviews. Regardless......I'm thinking I also want to change my control arms, lower and upper suspension arms, track bar, links....just re do the whole suspension.

1. Is all of this necessary? (it's not in bad shape but is it necessary for the lift?) Like, won't some of the old parts be too short etc.?

2. If I do go with new control arms and links, do they have to be longer because of the lift?

Thank you very much for your help. I appreciate it!

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Unread 05-22-2013, 08:28 PM   #2
SpecialK2000
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I have to be brutally honest. I just went out under my Grass Guzzler (XJ) and realized that the answers to all of my questions were right there in front of me all along. I don't need control arms. I don't need new links. All I need is to get my arse out under that jeep and get to work. Just remove some bolts, move some stuff around, and put her back together. Tune in next time. Thanks for your help.
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Unread 05-23-2013, 05:53 AM   #3
tyvanwie
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You don't need new arms if yours are in good shape. And if you mean swaybar links, yes you do need new, longer ones.

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Unread 05-23-2013, 10:59 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by tyvanwie View Post
You don't need new arms if yours are in good shape. And if you mean swaybar links, yes you do need new, longer ones.

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When I had 3.07s I would draft behind birds as an attempt to do the speed limit.
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Unread 05-23-2013, 11:01 AM   #5
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I put the Zone 4.5" lift on my 2000' XJ and the ride is very good.The kit came with everything needed.I wouldn't replace the CA's with a 3" lift.I redrilled the front track bar hole instead of buying an adjustable one.

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When I had 3.07s I would draft behind birds as an attempt to do the speed limit.
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Unread 05-23-2013, 11:17 AM   #6
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Unread 05-23-2013, 09:30 PM   #7
SpecialK2000
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Very nice. Thanks for the feedback! Just when I thought this would be easy I found a pro comp lift with everything included....but, the instructions look insane.....after all of the posts I've read it sounds easy thought? What do you think?
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Unread 05-23-2013, 09:33 PM   #8
tyvanwie
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Zone>procomp

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Unread 05-24-2013, 03:06 AM   #9
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpecialK2000 View Post
I have to be brutally honest. ...

I don't need control arms. I don't need new links.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBoogieman View Post
I put the Zone 4.5" lift on my 2000' XJ and the ride is very good.The kit came with everything needed.I wouldn't replace the CA's with a 3" lift.I redrilled the front track bar hole instead of buying an adjustable one.
I have to be brutally honest as well, based on my personal experience with a couple of XJs and ZJ that I've owned/ wheeled:

* You do need at least new lower CAs, but preferrably adjustable uppers and lowers. This way you can adjust the front WB to whatever you desire, and you get stronger arms - the POS stock stamped steel (sheetmetal) arms will get destroyed on any decently challenging trail within a few wheeling trips.

* The stock trackbar design is pretty crappy. If you plan on wheeling fairly often, I would convert to a HD trackbar system that uses either a rubber or PU bushing at one end and a flex joint on the other & a double shear trackbar bracket @ the frame end. That way you get rid of the not-so-strong stock single shear setup with the crappy stock bracket that is known to crack.

..and as mentioned, you do need longer swaybar links with 3" lift. I'd buy JKS quick disconnects, or some other similar ones.
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Unread 05-24-2013, 04:45 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpecialK2000 View Post
Very nice. Thanks for the feedback! Just when I thought this would be easy I found a pro comp lift with everything included....but, the instructions look insane.....after all of the posts I've read it sounds easy thought? What do you think?
It's pretty easy if you don't have rust problems.I spray all the bolts with PB blaster a few days in advance.Pro Comp shocks suck and ride very stiff.
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Unread 05-24-2013, 08:47 AM   #11
SpecialK2000
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Thanks! You guys are great. Taking all the advice. Now let's see what I can do with it.
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Unread 05-24-2013, 03:41 PM   #12
SpecialK2000
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I just ordered the 3 inch Zone lift with full leaf springs and the transfer case drop kit, nitro shock option. I already have some stabilizer bar links and I held off on some of the other parts like control arms. I will get those next. Thanks again for all your help. Once I get her up in the air I'm sure I'll have some more questions.
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Unread 05-25-2013, 09:04 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by SpecialK2000 View Post
I just ordered the 3 inch Zone lift with full leaf springs and the transfer case drop kit, nitro shock option. I already have some stabilizer bar links and I held off on some of the other parts like control arms. I will get those next. Thanks again for all your help. Once I get her up in the air I'm sure I'll have some more questions.
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Unread 06-03-2013, 11:51 AM   #14
SpecialK2000
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So guys and gals, completed the rear 3 inch lift this past weekend with a lot of help from my father. About 8 hours on Saturday and 5 hours on Sunday. Let me tell you.....it was one of the most difficult things I've ever done IN MY LIFE. Please keep in mind that I'm doing this in my parents back yard and I have most of the tools but not all. Just a hydraulic lift, jack stands etc.

So, first bolt I try to remove...rear shock absorber upper bolt, snaps right off. Yes, I used PB blaster for days if not weeks before. And the bolt felt like it was turning. Nope, she just snapped right off. If I were you....HEAT EVERY BOLT. We heated the next three and one came out so smooth but the other two broke off. We bought the extractor tool....that broke off inside the broken bolt. You see where this is going right? We ended up drilling the crap out of the bolts, ripping out the interior carpet and drilling holes into the back floor to reach the other sides of the bolts.

Then the leaf springs....OMG. The front bolt on the passenger side WOULD NOT COME OUT. We got it most of the way out but then it got stuck in the sleave with about a 1/4 inch to go and we ended up taking a saws all to both sides of it. Once I got the leaf springs out.....the new ones would not reach to the original holes and brackets from the old leaf springs. I had to use a pump jack to move the spring around and a crowbar to force the thing into place.

Then trying to line up the u-bolts with the leaf spring brackets was insane. Oh and the air wrench that I bought did not take one single bolt out. If you are going to lift your jeep do yourself two favors:

1. Heat the bolts.
2. Buy a real air wrench, spend the money and get a real one.

Thanks to everyone for your advice etc. I appreciate it. I do feel a sense of accomplishment even though I wanted to torch my jeep on Saturday. I look forward to helping anyone else who is working on lifting their jeep. :-)
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Unread 06-03-2013, 01:01 PM   #15
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Sounds pretty similar to my first lift install. Did you ditch the rear sway bar? I used the mounts where it connected to my u-bolts as rear upper shock mounts. Definately go with some longer lower control arms. I put some non adjustable 16.25 inch ones on mine after driving with stock arms for a rear and i immediately noticed an improvement in the ride and handling. Also as others have said go with an adjustable double shear trackbar setup. Itll save you headaches down the road.
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