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Unread 05-30-2012, 10:53 AM   #1
Logan88
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Messed with AC now jeep randomly Seizures and backfires

I dont know why but decided to recharge my AC. Then went for a 2hr drive. When I stop it randomly will sputter and idle low. Even if I press the peddle to the floor it will barely go. The engine never dies just barely runs. Can the AC compressor be freezing up? Or A sensor? Or fuel pressure regulator? I've never had a problem with a compressor do they lock up and halt the serpentine belt?

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Unread 05-30-2012, 12:13 PM   #2
CJ7-Tim
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Details required: what kinda Jeep ? What year, engine, transmission ? What exactly did you do ? Remove, unplug, fiddle with any wire plugs, wires, or other parts ?

Is the problem directly related to the A/C and it operations, or does it happen with the A/C off ? What other parts have you tested, inspected, or replaced ?
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Unread 05-30-2012, 12:51 PM   #3
Logan88
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2000 xj with 4.0. Car does it with AC unplugged, not turned on, and vice versa. Recharged it Monday night but the air never worked then Tuesday afternoon it started the problem. I haven't touched anything besides unplugging and replugging the compressor as that worked on a friends jimmy that did the same thing
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Unread 05-30-2012, 01:02 PM   #4
AZ Jeff
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If your problem exists with the AC unplugged, it's totally coincidental the issue started after the recharge.

Have you attempted to run an OBD code scan on it?
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Unread 05-30-2012, 01:05 PM   #5
Logan88
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I rode my bike to work I'm going to try and make it to autozone to see if they can scan it. From what research I've seen it's going to be trial and error with sensors and fuel system. I have new plugs to put in it. I was going to check crank shaft sensors fuel pressure just didn't know if this was a common jeep problem
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Unread 05-30-2012, 01:11 PM   #6
Logan88
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Although last night on the way home whenever I would excelerate it made a new noise coming from the belt. It wasn't squealing it was just like there was an extra load on the pulley system. That's why I thought maybe the compressor was locking up causing the motor to stall
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Unread 05-30-2012, 02:21 PM   #7
buildin1XJ
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How did you tension the belt? use a guage?
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Unread 05-30-2012, 03:43 PM   #8
Logan88
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I Didnt use a gauge to tension the belt but it's been on there over a year and haven't had any trouble with it. I just remember yesterday I put a half bottle of Lucas fuel injection cleaner when I filled up. I wonder if I put too much or if it clogged an o2 sensor or catalytic converter?
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Unread 05-30-2012, 03:51 PM   #9
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Start with the free and easy solutions, then test and diagnose your way, in a logical manner, to the true cause. There are a number of common Cherokee issues that you need to include or exclude as a possible cause of the symptoms. Randomly installing new parts or sensors in the hopes that you accidentally fix the problem is a waste of time and money.


Are all your tune-parts fresh ? Clean all the battery/starter/alternator wires and ground wires. Clean the Throttle Body and Idle Air Controller.

Perform routine maintenance of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables or connectors and replace as needed. Do the same for the grounding wires from the starter to engine block, and from the battery and engine to the Jeep's frame/body. You must remove, scrape, and clean until shiny, the cable/wire ends, and whatever they bolt to. Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage, bad connections, or poor grounds.

Then test your Throttle Position Sensor


Cleaning the Idle Air Controller (IAC) :

Purchase sensor safe Throttle Body cleaner spray.

1. Remove the Throttle body from the intake manifold.
2. Remove the IAC with a TORX 15 driver (2 bolts)
3. Gently wiggle out the IAC from the throttle body
4. Clean the IAC with Throttle Body Cleaner (not carburetor cleaner). Use cleaner, a rag, and a toothbrush. Be gentle; don’t twist or pull on the pintle as it is fragile and can be damaged easily
5. Also clean where the IAC seats in the throttle body with the same throttle body cleaner
6. While you have the Throttle Body off, give it a good cleaning also.
7. Reinstall IAC, the Throttle body, and check idle quality.

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TPS

You may have one or more of these Physical Symptoms:

1) The engine loses power and is stalling.
2) The engine will idle, but may die as soon as you press the gas pedal. When driving, it seems as if all power is gone.
3) Sometimes it feels as if the transmission is failed or isn't shifting properly, if at all. If you quickly jump on the gas you might be able to get the transmission to shift, but it won’t shift properly by itself. Shifting manually, the transmission goes through all the gears.

NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics. The TPS function should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected.

TPS TEST

You should have 5 volts going into the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). It is best to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. At idle, TPS output voltage should be greater than .26 volts but less than .95 volts. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT. The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage.

Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.


The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture, and vibration, leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following:

-Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".

- High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.


-Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.


-Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted accordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.


- Engine Misfire: A faulty TPS can report values outside the acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticeable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessive misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage.

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Unread 05-30-2012, 04:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Logan88 View Post
I Didnt use a gauge to tension the belt but it's been on there over a year and haven't had any trouble with it. I just remember yesterday I put a half bottle of Lucas fuel injection cleaner when I filled up. I wonder if I put too much or if it clogged an o2 sensor or catalytic converter?
Your new squeel might be something else that is giving from an over tightened belt, or not moving right from an under-tightened belt. XJ likes its belt snug, and the tool to set it costs about $12.
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