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Lucas Motor Oil has high ZDDP. Good for Flat Tappet Cams.

16K views 40 replies 17 participants last post by  wsar10 
#1 ·
I recently contacted the technical department of Lucas oil and inquired about the ZDDP content of the Lucas motor oils.

Here is what I was told
Standard 30W = 1265 parts per million
Standard 20W50 = 1265 parts per million
Standard 10W30 = 900 parts per million (has the seal oil industry seal and cannot exceed 900)
Racing synthetic 10W30 = 3031 parts per million
Racing synthetic 10W40 = 3031 parts per million
Racing synthetic 20W50 = 3031 parts per million

Here is a link to this oil http://www.lucasoiloffroad.com/lucaspdf/TDS_Syn-SAE_10W-30.pdf

I have been using 10W30 Kohler Universal Engine oil in my Jeep to protect the Flat Tappet cam as the Kohler oil has around 3200 parts per million ZDDP but I think I will switch to the Lucas Synthetic Racing Oil at my next change now that I know that it has so much ZDDP in it and due to the availability of the Lucas products. The person I spoke with at Lucas assured me that the Lucas Racing Oil would hold up for my normal oil change interval of about 5000 to 6000 miles. Actually even the standard Lucas oil at 1265 parts per million would be more than enough to protect a Jeep 4.0 flat tappet cam.
 
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#7 ·
x2. Yes the 4.0L has a flat tappet cam, but the weak valve springs don't insinuate the need for a high ZDDP oil. In fact, with a higher ZDDP oil you will ruin your cats before the engine shows increased wear.
 
#3 ·
the problem with using racing oils, or tractor oil for that matter is that you are only gaining in that particular mineral area I would think, what about the other additive package's ?

I run Rotella T5 in my 4.0,
it has the higher levels of ZDDP and moly, but it also has the detergents and seal conditioners.
 
#5 ·
Thought I read somewhere that elavated levels of ZDDP are highly corrosive to engine internals. Again, at 55lbs seat pressure, tappet wear should be a non-issue as long as there's some kind of oil in it.
 
#6 ·
Zinc and phosphorus do not cause corrosion, but exactly the opposite.
ZDDP was originally added to oil to prevent the corrosive characteristics of high sulfur fuels.
 
#8 ·
thats ok I'll sleep better at night knowing my engine has more heavy metal protection vs. replace a 200 dollar cat.
 
#17 ·
I'm talking about those who are running racing oils in the engine for the higher amounts of ZDDP the motor doesn't even need.
 
#10 ·
yeah :(

Ill do whatever I can to to avoid killing my 3 cats faster and have to replace them..
 
#14 ·
AMSOIL is great don't misunderstand my comment to follow;

For half the price of AMSOIL you could run Rotella T5 for the same results,
you can check out the UOA's for both over a BITOG,
Rotella can be had at your local WM for 16 bucks a gallon versus waiting a week and paying 40.
 
#20 ·
Me ?

hell no, I kinda steered the OP against it,
I'm a rotella guy.
 
#23 ·
Totally unnecessary for the 4.0 with its light spring pressures and low RPM. Shell Rotella T6 is available at Wal-Mart for less per quart than Lucas, and it has ~1000 PPM of zinc which is PLENTY even for a muscle car engine, let alone a mellow little Jeep 4.0

Even in my 1960s big-block V8s with twice the flat-tappet spring pressure of my 4.0s, I still run either Rotella 5w40 or Mobil 1 0w40 (which has about 900 PPM of ZDDP). For a street-driven car, you need an oil with a very good detergent/dispersant additive package to prevent sludge and varnish. Racing oils have very little of those additives because they're meant for short-life engines where sludge and varnish just aren't going to happen. There's no point in loosing sleep over high Zinc/Phosphorous content if you kill the engine with sludge instead.
 
#28 ·
Just trying to be extra safe.

OK, lets put an end to this discussion! There is no doubt that this problem exists as is stated here in this release by Rislone http://www.barsproducts.com/press10/4401_4.6.10.pdf

I am not trying to make up a problem that has not been documented; I am only trying to deal with the cold hard facts of reduced ZDDP in modern engine oil while I drive a flat tappet engine. You guys can choose to ignore the problem or address the problem, makes no difference to me. I am going to err on the side of caution and try to be proactive in protecting my valve train. I am going to use good oil and add this ZDDP protection http://www.barsproducts.com/press10/4401_4.6.10.pdf for as long as I own my XJ. If you guys think that it is not needed then by all means don't use it and I wish you good luck. I am going to use it and know that my 4.0 flat tappet engine is protected as well as it can be protected. I also had Lucas 10W30 synthetic engine oil installed today at the Lucas shop along with extra ZDDP added to my oil. Over kill? Maybe, but at the least I know that I have enough ZDDP to protect my engine in my crankcase.

How about you? Are you sure that your 4.0 is protected?
 
#30 ·
I would NEVER use a radiator additive........

But as far as your unproven statement that there ZDDP additive is junk.......well lets see the proof of that, lets see a VOA or something similar ???
cuz above may sound like a marketing statement...but your post, well just sounds like BS !

I also must disclose that I do not use these additives, but so far this thread has pretty much contained information with science to back it.
 
#32 ·
My springs in my AMC I4 were set at 68lbs at time of rebuild. I think they are down to 65-66lbs by now and holding steady though. So I tend to want to use higher ZDDP content oils. Been using 900ppm Castrol GTX 10w30 High Mileage though since the rebuild. Switching to 1300ppm Mobil 1 Full Synthetic High Mileage 10w30 since the GTX is moving to GL-5 standard which drops ppm to like 600 or something like that.
 
#33 ·
Even at 68lbs, the XJ has one of the lowest seat pressure valve trains out there. This whole mess got started when some goober thought he was an engine builder, installed 600lb triple springs in a small block chevy rebuild, fired it up, wiped the lobes off the cam and blamed it on the oil.:nono:
 
#34 ·
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

VERY good site on oil. Probably everything you never wanted to know and lots you do want to know about motor oil and lubricants.

I read a really good article on flat tappet engines and additives on here...somewhere. If I ever find it, I will post it.

:thumbsup:
 
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