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Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: United States Posts: 155 | Looking in to buying a Cherokee, What to look for What to stay away from?
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| #2 | |
Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Location: Timonium MD Posts: 1,137 | First you have to decide what body styling you want Pre 96' or 97'+ __________________ 98 XJ SE 4.0 L White 70,xxx miles RE 3.5in Super Flex Lift, BFG AT 32x11.5x15; adj Control arm, RE gen2 disco's, T-case drop Factory Front Skid/ TC Skid/ Gas Skid; Cobra 18 WX ST II SoundTracker CB 3 FT firestick mounted on RoofRack; Set of BaJa lights top bumper mounted; Light bar/w 150watt KC DayLighters ;Rusty's Air intake; FM Delta 50 C 4X4 front tow hooks; Rear Hatch Speakers; Painted Fenders Flares; herculined floor; Back-Up lights inside bumper My car Domain Page |
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| #3 | |
Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: United States Posts: 155 | I am thinking that I will be aiming for 99 or newer. |
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| #4 | |
Registered User | Read through the stickies here and on JU/NAXJA. There are very minor differences in trim, so I wouldn't be concerned with "Sport vs Classic" decisions. '99 is considered by many to be the best year (myself included). 2 doors / 5-speeds seem particularly difficult to find - especially for '97+, but they are out there. If you're going to wheel 40% of the time, I'd look for the Command-Trac TC (NP231) which offers part-time 4wd. It'll be fine for slippery conditions on the road (up to 55 mph) and better off-road. 35s will probably require new axles. The 8.25, 29 spline can handle it but yer starting to push the envelope depending on your wheelin' (especially w/ the D30 up front). Gearing would be 4.88s minimum IMO. The 8.25 can only handle 4.56, and I think the D30 maxes out at 4.88. I'd stay away from the '00-'01 because of the LP D30 and distributor-less ignition system. Look for a '97 - '99. DR __________________ Everytime you kiss her you taste a little bit of me. |
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| #5 | |
Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: United States Posts: 155 | Well, I would like to weld in my own roll cage, change the bumpers out and run a winch up front. I would like to have front and rear tow points, and be able to carry a full size spare. I was thinking that I would upgrade the axles and DS before I went up to 35's. Auto or manual isn't important I can drive either (as long as I don't have a trailer) Thanks for your input! |
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| #6 | |
Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Location: Timonium MD Posts: 1,137 | An Auto is rated to tow 5000 Lbs and manual is around 2500 Lbs i think. You are also going to want to stay away from ABS if you are going to be wheeling it alot, also when you lift it you are going to need an SYE __________________ 98 XJ SE 4.0 L White 70,xxx miles RE 3.5in Super Flex Lift, BFG AT 32x11.5x15; adj Control arm, RE gen2 disco's, T-case drop Factory Front Skid/ TC Skid/ Gas Skid; Cobra 18 WX ST II SoundTracker CB 3 FT firestick mounted on RoofRack; Set of BaJa lights top bumper mounted; Light bar/w 150watt KC DayLighters ;Rusty's Air intake; FM Delta 50 C 4X4 front tow hooks; Rear Hatch Speakers; Painted Fenders Flares; herculined floor; Back-Up lights inside bumper My car Domain Page |
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