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Unread 08-15-2008, 07:53 PM   #1
HeepToJeep
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Links for 14 Bolt rear end tech info or write-ups?

I tried the search function but it wasn't playing nicely with the short term "14" so I'm stuck pestering you folks for links to the tech info, swap write-ups and donor lists....ah hell, while we're at it, feel free to throw in your opinions of the pros and cons to using the 14 bolt over the D44, D60, 8.25, 8.8, Ford 9 and Isuzu 12 bolt (or others I failed to list, Dturdy5 absence intentional) if you feel so inclined.

Wm

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Unread 08-15-2008, 09:16 PM   #2
durango-bob
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I'm pretty sure that Pirate4x4 has a write up.
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Unread 08-15-2008, 10:56 PM   #3
HeepToJeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by durango-bob View Post
I'm pretty sure that Pirate4x4 has a write up.
I'm sure there is but the search function there seems to be built on a very similar platform as this one and NAXJA so the term "14" came back as too short or two common. I did make an inquiry for tech info on one of the threads I found regarding the 14 bolt, so, we'll see what happens. The downside to trying to find/get information on that site is that it's..umm....HIGHLY undermoderated.

Wm
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Unread 08-15-2008, 11:46 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeepToJeep View Post
I tried the search function but it wasn't playing nicely with the short term "14" so I'm stuck pestering you folks for links to the tech info, swap write-ups and donor lists....ah hell, while we're at it, feel free to throw in your opinions of the pros and cons to using the 14 bolt over the D44, D60, 8.25, 8.8, Ford 9 and Isuzu 12 bolt (or others I failed to list, Dturdy5 absence intentional) if you feel so inclined.

Wm
A lot of people really like the corporate 14 bolt rear axle. It is a very strong axle in stock trim and doesn't normally require after market parts to beef it up. They can be found very cheap and plentiful at wrecking yards, so building a 14 bolt is cheap. You can find them with stock low gear ratios, spool it and you have a very strong axle for just a couple hundred bucks.
However, they are very large and heavy and wide and 8 lug. Overkill if you plan on running tires under 40 inches. They don't have the variety of gear ratios and lockers that are available for the D60 and D44. The diff hangs pretty low so most people who use them will shave and plate the bottom. I have a friend who shaved nearly 4 inches from his 14 bolt. Most people the run the 14 bolt rear run a D60 front, and thats where it gets expensive.

I personally went with a D60 rear, bored the spindles, installed 1.5 inch alloy shafts and an ARB.
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Unread 08-16-2008, 12:07 AM   #5
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14 bolts are huge pigs....38's on a 14 bolt equal the same underaxle clearence that a dana 35 has with 33's.
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Unread 08-16-2008, 06:29 AM   #6
bmyohn
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what ive learned is that 14 bolts take a lot of work and are basically boat anchors for anything under 38s or so. the take some work to get in..what are your plans for it? there may be better options out there for you
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Unread 08-16-2008, 06:41 AM   #7
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Personally I think the 8.8 is the perfect swap for a XJ. It takes minimal fabrication, is the same bolt pattern, very easy to find, and is very strong. also easy to find with 4:10 gears.
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Unread 08-16-2008, 08:31 AM   #8
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The 14 bolt swap bible.
http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista...ble/index.html
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Unread 08-16-2008, 08:46 AM   #9
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A lot of people ***** about the 14bolt's clearance, but it's only 1 small factor. There are a couple ways to increase the clearance, but IMO it's not that big of deal. There are other factors that have lead me to use the 14b as my rearend (full floater, huge R/P, 1.5" shafts, cheap detroit, 5.38s gears now available, easy to rebuild).

Also, a lot of people take the weight factor as a bad thing when in reality the heavier axle will improve droop,
and lower the COG of the rig. You just have to make sure the chassis and suspension are up to the task of keeping it under control.
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Unread 08-16-2008, 09:57 AM   #10
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Truth be known I could probably get by just fine on D44s but prior to committing myself to that I want to research all of my options, leave no stone unturned as they say...currently I'm leaning towards the Isuzu 12 bolt or D44. My guidelines are very simple, daily driver and I'm not dumping a fortune into any of the componants when a little creativity and patience can yield great results through a 100% boneyard build. The fab work wont be an issue for me and I highly doubt tire size ever leaves the 32-35in range. Seeing as it's going to be a daily driver on 32-35s and offroaded mostly on trail rides I'm thinking 4.56 gearing.....input?

FoggyBottomBob, excellent link....exactly what I was looking for. Thank you sir!


Wm
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Unread 08-16-2008, 05:00 PM   #11
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A 14 bolt is about equivalent to a dana 70. Next step down is a dana 60. Then there are the ford 9" and the ford 8.8". So there are a lot of choices between a dana 44 and a 14 bolt.
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Unread 08-16-2008, 05:29 PM   #12
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don't forget you can buy 35 spline shafts and carrier for a rear dana 44 as well. I have to admit every time I see a 14bolt with 4.10 gears and a factory detroit I am very tempted to buy it for the XJ. Just the lack of clearance and the 35" tires I will eventual run make me look for something else.
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Unread 08-16-2008, 05:36 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryson View Post
....There are other factors that have lead me to use the 14b as my rearend (full floater, huge R/P, 1.5" shafts, cheap detroit, 5.38s gears now available, easy to rebuild).

Also, a lot of people take the weight factor as a bad thing when in reality the heavier axle will improve droop,
and lower the COG of the rig. You just have to make sure the chassis and suspension are up to the task of keeping it under control.
What you said is true, but you can't assume you will get 1.5" shafts in a 14 bolt. There are lots of different models, many have necked down shafts that are only 1.3x. The spindle OD, wheel bearings and seals are the same in the 14 bolt, D70, and D60. The real advantage of the 14 bolt (besides strength) is if you get it from a pick-and-pull type wrecking yard they usually have a cheap flat rate for any rear axle, $100 - $150. Then if you keep looking long enough you can find one with stock 4.56 gears, 1.5" shafts and 63 or 67 inch with. You can spool it by welding it, or buy a detroit for $350 or so. The detroit installs in the stock carrier that's why it is cheaper than one for a D60 or D44.

If you are not running tires > 38", and you are going to pay to regear to 5.38, and install a full locker like an ARB, then the 14 bolt doesn't really have any advantage over a D60, especially cost wise. And then you have a heavier axle and less ground clearance. While heavy axles do place the weight down low where you want it, it also means more unsprung weight wich results in a really rough riding vehicle on the pavement.

Also, your choices for a matching 8 lug front axle are limitted to a Ford 3/4 ton 8 lug D44, or a Ford D60.
If you are not planning on running a D60 front, then the 14 bolt rear makes even less sense. If you do plan on a D60 front then you will probably want a Ford high pinion D60 from a 1978-1979 F350. These are becoming rare and go for a premium price even for a rebuildable junk yard axle. They have the required driver's drop diff, open knuckles, king pins, 35/30 spline shafts, disc brakes, and enough space for coil spring perches.. There are other axles that can be adapted but they are less desireable and usually require more work. The cost of alloy shafts, u-joints, knuckles, high steer arms, gears, and lockers for a D60 is significantly more than for a D44 so plan ahead.

I think the best way to plan a build is to decide on tire size and build accordingly. 35's will require quite a bit of additional strengthening of steering components, and unibody stiffening. 38's and up will require more extensive mods to the body, especially in the rear to open up the wheel wells, as well as some form of hydro steering and probably hydro assist brakes, at that piont a cage or exo will probably be needed to keep the the unibody from tearing itself apart. All these things should be considered and budgeted for before you purchase anything.
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Axle swaps & build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=397243

Last edited by Sierra Drifter; 08-16-2008 at 06:20 PM..
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Unread 08-16-2008, 06:56 PM   #14
HeepToJeep
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Clearance for a 14 isn't really an issue if you have any fab skills, the link Bob posted has a good section by Bill Ansell on shaving two inches off the bottom of a 14 which leaves you with the same clearance as running 39in tires. Being a dirt cheap axle you can find in just about any scrap heap makes them very appealing as well as the fact that most of their componants are interchangeable, meaning if on the off chance you did scrap a gear or shaft a quick, cheap trip to the boneyard could have you back on the trail. Technically, with the high number of them floating around you could very well find one with a locker that someone had built and totalled but never bought back from the insurance company. I would probably look to pair one with a HPD60 as Sierra Drifter mentioned but they're probably even harder to find than the elusive rear XJ D44, but on the upside, at least in that scenario you have the decent stock D30 to wheel/ride on in the meantime...downside is you're back to an expensive build. I think the "which axles" question is the most agonizing part of any build because there just is no perfect answer...it seems that you wind up getting one perfect axle and having to settle on the other.

Wm
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Unread 08-16-2008, 07:31 PM   #15
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You say your tire size won't leave 32-35", so it's not worth it to swap out the front 30. If you're keeping the d30 than go with an 8.8 or xj 44 rear to match bolt patterns, about the same strength, and ease of install. Either combo will be good to 35s if you build them.
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