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Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Cherokee & Comanche Forums > Cherokee Technical Forum > Lifting my 2000 Sport (apologies in advance)

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Old 11-17-2009, 07:40 PM   #16
gist901
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AA I believe stands for Advance Adapters.

Not to hijack this post, but I too am contemplating doing the same exact setup to my Cherokee and this is exactly what I had q's about.

Also from what I have read, if you get the 3.5 lift w/ rear spring replacements, u should actually expect a lift initially of around 4.5 to even 5 before the lift actually settlesdown, making it necessary to get the sye.

If you do the lift w/ new rear leafs, is it neccessary to replace the rear shocks as well??

thanks

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Old 11-17-2009, 09:11 PM   #17
the_weirdo
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If you are going from stock to 4.5" (or even 3.5") then yes you need new rear shocks (and front ones for that matter).

Quote:
Originally Posted by gist901 View Post
AA I believe stands for Advance Adapters.

Not to hijack this post, but I too am contemplating doing the same exact setup to my Cherokee and this is exactly what I had q's about.

Also from what I have read, if you get the 3.5 lift w/ rear spring replacements, u should actually expect a lift initially of around 4.5 to even 5 before the lift actually settlesdown, making it necessary to get the sye.

If you do the lift w/ new rear leafs, is it neccessary to replace the rear shocks as well??

thanks
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Old 11-17-2009, 11:22 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_weirdo View Post
If you are going from stock to 4.5" (or even 3.5") then yes you need new rear shocks (and front ones for that matter).
great to know weirdo.

my last q would be does it make sense on a 3.5/4.5 lift to also do an TC drop?? Would it make the vehicle ride better? Would u also need to do anything to the drive shaft to the front wheels??
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Old 11-18-2009, 06:06 PM   #19
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I think I can answer this one... Putting in a SYE is a better solution to a TC drop - keeps the clearance and smooth ride. You need a new rear driveshaft in conjunction, though. That does raise a good question, though - will the stock front driveshaft be okay with the lift?

Alright, I think I'm sold on the HD SYE. I downloaded all the "Trucks!" episodes on the "Cheep Cherokee" project (they're all on XBox/Zune Marketplace - teh awxome!), and they put one in when they did their long arm conversion. Minus the getting the TC out from underneath the Jeep, it seemed pretty simple.

They also installed a "new" (was actually off an Explorer) rear axle and diff. I'll be doing some trail making, but probably only very minor (if any) rock crawling - should I be thinking about a new rear axle/diff in the near future, or will the stock stuff hold up for the next several years? What about the front for that matter? As far as what I'll be rolling on, I think I'm going to trim the fenders, install new flares, and put on 33x10's...

Let's see... Still on the topic of axles - I believe I've got a Dana 30 in front and a Dana 35 in back. Can anybody confirm this?

I think that's all for now. Again, THANKS for all the help!
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Old 11-18-2009, 06:23 PM   #20
GunnerT23
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a 2000 should have a d30 up front and a chrysler 8.25 rear.



the ford axel swap is ideal for getting rid of rear drum and going to the disk



you dont needt pull the Transfer case to do a sye, its very easy to do it under the jeep, I didnt even use jackstands! (I have a 4.5" list with 32" tires)



the front shaft is sill good for the lift, you just need to have theproper pinion angle on the front axel. anything over 4" you will need upper and lower controll arms, unless your gonna skip right to the longarm kit, then you wont hae to worrie about it (I wish i would have done the long arm)
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Old 11-18-2009, 06:26 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GunnerT23 View Post
a 2000 should have a d30 up front and a chrysler 8.25 rear.



the ford axel swap is ideal for getting rid of rear drum and going to the disk



you dont needt pull the Transfer case to do a sye, its very easy to do it under the jeep, I didnt even use jackstands! (I have a 4.5" list with 32" tires)



the front shaft is sill good for the lift, you just need to have theproper pinion angle on the front axel. anything over 4" you will need upper and lower controll arms, unless your gonna skip right to the longarm kit, then you wont hae to worrie about it (I wish i would have done the long arm)
Year has no bearing on what axle you have (other than the d44 with was only used a few years).Dana 30 is the front axle no matter what, and both the d35 and the Chrysler 8.25 were available for the rear till the end. If you have ABS you have a d35, if not then it could be either, and you need to look at the axle to find out.
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perfect depends on how far away you are when you look at it:D
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It's a 4.0 ... as long as there's something in the crank case that isn't coolant I'm sure it will still run forever.
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Old 11-18-2009, 06:31 PM   #22
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yeah.. he is right. I forgot abs exists (i dont have it)
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Old 11-18-2009, 06:36 PM   #23
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I do have ABS, hence Dana 35.
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Old 11-18-2009, 06:45 PM   #24
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Fancy!

Love the signatiure btw

oohh, AA stands for Advance Adapters. they make the standard size sye. I think its not proven to be as strong as a HDsye, but mine is really built for snow drifting and not that hard of offroading.
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Old 11-18-2009, 06:56 PM   #25
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Fancy!

Love the signatiure btw

oohh, AA stands for Advance Adapters. they make the standard size sye. I think its not proven to be as strong as a HDsye, but mine is really built for snow drifting and not that hard of offroading.
AA makes the 32 spline HD kit. I dont think there are standard non HD non Hack and Tap style sye's..
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"Dee", a Patriot Blue 2001 Cherokee Sport 4.0L High-Output Pictures Build Thread

"Live Free Or Die; Death Is Not The Worst of Evils."
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedbucket View Post
perfect depends on how far away you are when you look at it:D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Millermagic View Post
It's a 4.0 ... as long as there's something in the crank case that isn't coolant I'm sure it will still run forever.
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Old 11-18-2009, 07:14 PM   #26
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..... ok, not gonna lie here, i was neavous about doing a sye, and being that I have no other vehicle. I went to tom woods site, got confused, called, the guy walked me threw every thing in under 10 minuets, arrived at my house in 4 days and went in the next...

now that Ive done it, I would have just gotten the sye, then gotten a front DS out of rthe jy. but like I said. its my DD
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:49 PM   #27
gist901
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i must say I have learned alot in the past couple of days

those cheep cherokee videos are great, but man they make it look soooo easy!!
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Old 11-18-2009, 09:02 PM   #28
00XJ49
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If the rest of us had that garage and all those tools, I bet it would be easy.

So I've been drooling over Pro Comp tires and rims all evening... [/tangent]
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Old 11-19-2009, 09:09 PM   #29
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Alright guys, new question on the topic of wheels/tires.

I'm going with the RE 3.5" SF kit with rear springs, which states it'll fit 31"x10.5"s without trimming. However, I AM going to trim, and put on Bushwacker flares which supposedly add another 5" of clearance. I plan on putting on 33"x10.5"s, though I'd love to go wider. What do I have to worry about in terms of backspacing and rubbing?

THANKS THANKS THANKS!!
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Old 11-19-2009, 09:19 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GunnerT23 View Post
..... ok, not gonna lie here, i was neavous about doing a sye, and being that I have no other vehicle. I went to tom woods site, got confused, called, the guy walked me threw every thing in under 10 minuets, arrived at my house in 4 days and went in the next...

now that Ive done it, I would have just gotten the sye, then gotten a front DS out of rthe jy. but like I said. its my DD
LOL I was also really nervous about doing the SYE. Its really not that bad excepting the lock rings. Do your self a favor and get the best lock ring pliers you can find. I got mine from sears and wish I would have gone with a heavier duty pair from snap on.
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