Lets try this again, nasty howl from the axle, wasnt there before it was "fixed" - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Cherokee & Comanche Forums > XJ Cherokee Technical Forum > Lets try this again, nasty howl from the axle, wasnt there before it was "fixed"

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Unread 04-08-2011, 12:03 PM   #31
Mighty Thor
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Sounds like he pulled the bearing caps (only c shaped thing with bolts I can think of) and when he pulled the axles the adjuster fell out. Not impossible with a well worn diff. You would get some serious gear and bearing noise with little or no pre load. He might still be ok if he has the preload properly set but he might also have buggered the gears and bearings enough to be FUBAR now.

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Unread 04-08-2011, 02:38 PM   #32
95JeepFactory
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Okay, i am keeping the Jeep and picking up a Grand Prix soon just to save money on gas.

Yes, i beleive the gears are okay and they all look good, the print out i received from the Ford/GM dealer (used to be a Dodge dealership) told me to remove the two 19mm bolts and THEN to pull the c clips and then the axle.

As for the bearings, they look good and are still moving the rightway, full of lube from what i can see and should still be okay, I built myself a tool from a 36mm knut and a long threaded rod, welded together at the end and ground clean to adjust the load on the bearings. I have a funky dial thing that looks nearly identical to the ones i have seen in other threads associated with dialing in the load. Rummage sales FTW.

So before i start can anyone second the .003 Bearing preload that i have been told over the phone that the axle should have or should i take my tool down to the dealership and kindly remove some unedumacated people?
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Unread 04-08-2011, 02:44 PM   #33
Crewdude007
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I can't say any more than what's already been said: Save yourself the time, money and trouble and just swap in a new rear axle already!
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Unread 04-08-2011, 02:51 PM   #34
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95JeepFactory View Post
the print out i received from the Ford/GM dealer (used to be a Dodge dealership) told me to remove the two 19mm bolts and THEN to pull the c clips and then the axle.
Uumh.. It's a Jeep/ Chrysler axle, why would you get a print-out from a Ford/ GM dealer

You definitely have removed the wrong items - the carrier bearing caps. I don't know if you looked at the pictures at all which I posted on the previous page, that shows exactly what you needed to remove:

The very small retaining bolt that is located on the "groove" in the carrier, where the center pin comes through the carrier. It is removed using something like 1/4" open-end wrench.

Like I wrote, the c-clips are inside the carrier, at the ends of the shafts.

Quote:
As for the bearings, they look good and are still moving the rightway, full of lube from what i can see and should still be okay, I built myself a tool from a 36mm knut and a long threaded rod, welded together at the end and ground clean to adjust the load on the bearings. I have a funky dial thing that looks nearly identical to the ones i have seen in other threads associated with dialing in the load. Rummage sales FTW.
Even if they look fine and are "full of oil" you cannot test them like that. You need to have the carrier pre-load and correct gear mesh set-up, and see if the bearings make a sound, and do they feel right or not.

After a treatment like that, I'm pretty damn sure they are NOT in good condition. And why would you cheap-out on something like that? The carrier bearings are something like 30$ a piece, even if you buy Timkens (which I suggest doing).

Same thing goes for the gears, if they look fine, they may very well be - or not. They can make a hell of a whine if they have worn out in some weird way due to the incorrect gear mesh. That being said, they may hold up like that for 100k, 200k miles, or only 500 miles. You never know.
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Unread 04-08-2011, 02:59 PM   #35
95JeepFactory
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
Uumh.. It's a Jeep/ Chrysler axle, why would you get a print-out from a Ford/ GM dealer

After a treatment like that, I'm pretty damn sure they are NOT in good condition. And why would you cheap-out on something like that? The carrier bearings are something like 30$ a piece, even if you buy Timkens (which I suggest doing).

Same thing goes for the gears, if they look fine, they may very well be - or not. They can make a hell of a whine if they have worn out in some weird way due to the incorrect gear mesh. That being said, they may hold up like that for 100k, 200k miles, or only 500 miles. You never know.
It WAS a Dodge dealer. Same people in the shop TMK and they still honor Chrysler warranties.

I will still go ahead and adjust them as i planned to. Why go through the trouble of a new axle when i hardly have time to wheel anymore anyways?
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Unread 04-08-2011, 03:11 PM   #36
Timo_90xj
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Well, they were wrong anyways. Was that a printout of a factory service manual? I doubt.. they propably printed you the info from a wrong axle?

Anyways, you can try setting up the gears and bearing if you like - and if you know what you're doing. The only thing you loose if it doesn't work is time.

The reason why many of us are suggesting you to replace the axle is simple: if the gears and bearings are shot, it will be way easier and cheaper to swap in a complete junkyard axle than it is to start replacing all the parts to make your current axle work.
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Unread 04-08-2011, 03:11 PM   #37
Mighty Thor
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I don't mean to sound harsh, but if you do not know the difference between the C clips and the bearing caps you should not try to adjust anything with a welded socket and a dial indicator. You are playing with fire here. You do not have to go four wheeling to encounter disaster. If you are driving down the highway at 50 MPH and lock up the rear gears because of improper set up you will possibly end up skidding out of control in traffic. Do yourself (and the rest of us motoring public) a favor and have an expert fix your rearend or replace it with a properly working one.
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Unread 04-08-2011, 03:16 PM   #38
95JeepFactory
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mighty Thor View Post
I don't mean to sound harsh, but if you do not know the difference between the C clips and the bearing caps you should not try to adjust anything with a welded socket and a dial indicator. You are playing with fire here. You do not have to go four wheeling to encounter disaster. If you are driving down the highway at 50 MPH and lock up the rear gears because of improper set up you will possibly end up skidding out of control in traffic. Do yourself (and the rest of us motoring public) a favor and have an expert fix your rearend or replace it with a properly working one.
While i am no expert i DID graduate from Fox Valley Technical College with a 3.88 GPA in the Automotive Program and on top of that i Ice race during the winter months, AND have taken 3 defensive/ offensive driving courses at Road America in the last 5 years. Plenty of time on the Skid pad with locked up brakes etc. Why you ask? I wanted to be a cop for the longest time until i saw no openings in my state and about 600 people inline ahead of me
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Unread 04-08-2011, 03:18 PM   #39
Mighty Thor
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Originally Posted by 95JeepFactory View Post
The axles themselves have some play, so taht is typical, the whole gearing unit in the pumpkin can move side to side aswell though. I can rebuild an engine, wire the truck and build a new computer for the truck but i just dont understand axle gearing
Hmmmm, I am starting to think that a certain amount of hoaxin is goin on round here. No way anyone can build an engine and not know what a bearing cap is. We are either being had or we are trying to educate the untrainable.
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Unread 04-08-2011, 03:21 PM   #40
95JeepFactory
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mighty Thor View Post
Hmmmm, I am starting to think that a certain amount of hoaxin is goin on round here. No way anyone can build an engine and not know what a bearing cap is. We are either being had or we are trying to educate the untrainable.
I am sure there are some things you dont understand but could write a library on others. ADHD makes up a BIG part of my learning curve and i just gets some things and dont get others. Kinda hard to explain to people that havent seen it first hand.

On a side note i cant properly shift gears on a moterbike but have no problem with a manual trans in a truck. Go figure
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Unread 04-08-2011, 03:24 PM   #41
Mighty Thor
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Originally Posted by 95JeepFactory View Post
While i am no expert i DID graduate from Fox Valley Technical College with a 3.88 GPA in the Automotive Program and on top of that i Ice race during the winter months, AND have taken 3 defensive/ offensive driving courses at Road America in the last 5 years. Plenty of time on the Skid pad with locked up brakes etc. Why you ask? I wanted to be a cop for the longest time until i saw no openings in my state and about 600 people inline ahead of me
All that will comfort me not at all when you get sideways next to me on the interstate. As a potential law enforcement officer I assume you would abhor someone playing Russian roulette so why would you think it would be okay to drive with a "loaded" rear end. Safety First! always.
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Unread 04-08-2011, 03:28 PM   #42
Mighty Thor
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Ok, fair enough, you need to learn about rearends, but right now you should fix this right by proper bearing replacement and set up or you should have it done for you.
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Unread 04-08-2011, 05:23 PM   #43
95JeepFactory
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Originally Posted by Mighty Thor View Post
Ok, fair enough, you need to learn about rearends, but right now you should fix this right by proper bearing replacement and set up or you should have it done for you.
I know this about rearends: Stay away from the big ones after a night of Binge drinking and a gracious amount of Toxic Hell.

But on a serious note, ill take a few pics of the gearing in the rear end and yall can see how nice the gears look. Even my friend who is a seasoned pro at a small shop nearby says he dosnt beleive there are 170,00 on the gears/internals etc. Matter of fact the engine itself looks good too, only a slight leak from the valve cover which i fixed recently and from what i think is the O ring in the oil filters housing as its leaking from the junction of the armature to the block, not the filter itself.
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8.25 , axle , cherokee , noise , whine

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