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LeBarons are going in next
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#1 | |
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Registered User
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LeBarons are going in next
As soon as I've installed the Tranny Temp gauge this weekend, the next little job in the XJ is to install the LeBarons vents that have been hanging around my workshop for a couple of years!!.
There are loads of writeups on here so I know what I'm doing but a couple of questions that I haven't found the answers to:-1. Vent preparation - Whats the best stuff to use to clean the vents up, and the best stuff to paint them with. My vents are currently browny/red and I want them black to match the bushwackers. I want them to look GOOOOD! ![]() 2. Cutting tool - I've seen a number of people use a number of different tools but whats the best. I was going to use a small angle grinder with a very fine disc and then finish off with a dremmel. Thoughts? I'm starting to sweat already at the thought of placing that first cut!!! ![]()
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1998 XJ RE 4.5 inch superflex lift, RE GEN2 disconnects, 15x8 Crager 352's, 33x12.5x15 BFG MT, ARB Lockers Front and Rear, 4.56 Diffs, Cut & Tap Short Shaft Conversion, CV Rear Prop, B&M Transmission Cooler and Gauge, Bushwackers Cut-Outs, Skid Row Armor, AJ's SuperRails, LeBaron Hood Vents, KargoMaster Rack, Safari Snorkel, KC Daylighters, Midland CB, Brantz Navigation Loads a mud!! |
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#2 |
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Registered User
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A jig saw will give you the cleanest cut and the most control, you'll need to drill a large enough hole to get it started but after that it's smooth sailing, works great for cutting out fenders too.
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#3 |
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Registered User
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#4 |
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I like a die grinder with a 2.5" cut off wheel. Its more precise and easier to control than an angle grinder.
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#5 |
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Come out and play.
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x3. Use a bit with a higher tooth count (24 or so). Tape everything off surrounding the cuts, 6 inches or so if you use the jig saw(to account for turning the saw).
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#6 | |
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Web Wheeler
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Looking forward to this Mod, have some plans for a custom drip pan setup too. Anyone ever see an early 80's Chrysler Daytona scoop?? Thought about one of those too... sturdier too with a built in drip pan. Looking forward to your photo's.
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2000 Jeep Cherokee Classic 1992 M101 CDN2 1/4 Ton Off-road Trailer. 90% Daily Driver 100% Fun! ____=__= l l ,[_____], l---- L -[]lllllll[]- ()_) ()_)--o-)_) |
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#7 |
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Web Wheeler
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Check that... forgot about the body line down the middle of the XJ hood. Wouldn't really work with the Daytona scoop anyhow... not cleanly anyways.
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2000 Jeep Cherokee Classic 1992 M101 CDN2 1/4 Ton Off-road Trailer. 90% Daily Driver 100% Fun! ____=__= l l ,[_____], l---- L -[]lllllll[]- ()_) ()_)--o-)_) |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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Thanks for the ideas guys
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1998 XJ RE 4.5 inch superflex lift, RE GEN2 disconnects, 15x8 Crager 352's, 33x12.5x15 BFG MT, ARB Lockers Front and Rear, 4.56 Diffs, Cut & Tap Short Shaft Conversion, CV Rear Prop, B&M Transmission Cooler and Gauge, Bushwackers Cut-Outs, Skid Row Armor, AJ's SuperRails, LeBaron Hood Vents, KargoMaster Rack, Safari Snorkel, KC Daylighters, Midland CB, Brantz Navigation Loads a mud!! |
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#9 | |
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Registered User
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If you do use a jigsaw I would think the fine tooth advice is good and I would also say to keep the blade speed at max and cutting rate slow, and obviously plenty of masking tape. Perhaps grinder cutting disc for the straight edges and jigsaw the corners? Watch out for heat build up with the cutting disc, shouldn't really be a big problem in such thin metal but you dont want scorching and blistering along the edges of the cut. |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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How are you mounting the vents?? If your using rivets one thing I found with my hood vents is I wish I had drilled the rivet holes before I cut the slots out. Doing so after the cuts made the surrounding edges a little weaker and flexed quite a bit when drilling the holes leaving some a little off center.
As for Cutting I went with a die grinder for the sole reason that my buddy used a jig saw with a fine tooth blade and when he got to the bracing under the hook it kicked back and made a pretty noticeable crease looking dent on his hood. If you do use a die grinder or a grinder just cover your windshield with wet towels so the sparks don't damage the glass. |
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#11 | |
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Registered User
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I actually used a rough sand paper, steel brush and some steel wool. Then used alcohol to clean them, rubbing alcohol that is. And I painted them with Duplicolor Truck Bed Liner spray cans. I like the texture it has plus I wanted the black as well. |
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#12 | ||
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Registered User
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I'm going to use small pieces of angled aluminium
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Probably won't get round to doing this till Easter weekend but I'll post some pics up as I do it!!
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1998 XJ RE 4.5 inch superflex lift, RE GEN2 disconnects, 15x8 Crager 352's, 33x12.5x15 BFG MT, ARB Lockers Front and Rear, 4.56 Diffs, Cut & Tap Short Shaft Conversion, CV Rear Prop, B&M Transmission Cooler and Gauge, Bushwackers Cut-Outs, Skid Row Armor, AJ's SuperRails, LeBaron Hood Vents, KargoMaster Rack, Safari Snorkel, KC Daylighters, Midland CB, Brantz Navigation Loads a mud!! |
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#13 |
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Registered User
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I also have a set going in soon and I was told to use a scotchbrite pad to "rough them up" and then I got some grease/wax remover from Autozone and used that to clean them. Can't remember what it was called, but it was in an aerosol type can. I also used it to clean a skidplate prior to paint and it works well.
Painted them and they looks pretty good imo. I'm probably going to go with an angle grinder on mine, just because I've been warned about the jigsaw blade catching. |
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#14 |
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Come out and play.
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When I installed mine I painted with a basic primer, color matched the paint and clearcoated with an automotive clear.
I removed the hood and put it on sawhorses with the top facing downward. I made all my markings on the underside of the hood to make sure I had the vents between the hood braces. I drilled a starter hole for the jig saw and made the cuts with a 24(?) tooth blade. I didn't use the cutting wheel because it can make the hood metal too hot and cook the paint off. Keep the speed up but the cut slow, it didn't catch at all. I cleaned up the holes with a dremel. I used the angled aluminum with the LeBarron vents because of how they are made. The mounting holes end up being inboard of the holes cut in the hood so there's nothing to bolt the vent to without the aluminum. I used long bolts to clamp the hood between the vent and aluminum. I cut off the excess bolt. I guess you could use rivets but I'd bet they'd loosen easily, the bolts were just simple if I wanted to remove to repaint. |
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#15 |
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Registered User
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An update on my thread from last month but I finally got the LeBaron hood vents installed today.
I'd prepped them a couple of weeks ago in a matt black finish (thanks guys) and spent the last couple of days telling myself that a could cut two big holes in my clean hood and there would be no problem ![]() ![]() In the end I used a 4 1/2" angle grinder, a jig saw with a 25 tooth blade and a dremmel Here's the clean and shiny hood this morning:- ![]() All measured up, I must have rechecked this 10 times!! ![]() ![]() Settled the nerves and started to drill some reference holes at the corners of where the vents would go ![]() And then just went for it!!!! Here's the hood with the two holes cut ![]() And with the vents installed ![]() The whole job took me about 4 hours (I was taking my time with the cutting) and I'm really pleased with the way it's turned out. LeBaron hood vents are pretty rare in the UK so thanks to everybody that gave me advice and onto the next job now which will be to re-route my ARB Snorkel tube into the side of the airbox rather than entering the airbox from below.
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1998 XJ RE 4.5 inch superflex lift, RE GEN2 disconnects, 15x8 Crager 352's, 33x12.5x15 BFG MT, ARB Lockers Front and Rear, 4.56 Diffs, Cut & Tap Short Shaft Conversion, CV Rear Prop, B&M Transmission Cooler and Gauge, Bushwackers Cut-Outs, Skid Row Armor, AJ's SuperRails, LeBaron Hood Vents, KargoMaster Rack, Safari Snorkel, KC Daylighters, Midland CB, Brantz Navigation Loads a mud!! |
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