I read everything I could and followed all the great information on here. I put the gasket on the block with rtv and then mounted the pan. Once I filled it, not 30 secs in it stared leaking back by the transmission, never got to the point of starting it. :
I assumed it was the Oil pan gasket, based on everything I read. I just pulled everything off and the gasket stayed on the block, so I was able to see if it was in the correct place. I actually had to pull it out of that groove that it usually doesn't go into, so it looks like it was seated properly. I'm prepared to try again, but just curious if the immediate oil leak points to anything I could have screwed up with the bearing cap, RMS or if it definitely points to the gasket and I should just give it another shot.
1995 White XJ 2-Door Sport 145K miles
4.0 6L, 4.5" RC full leaf pack, coils, and fixed length LCAs, IRO Rear BPEs, Front YJ Brakelines, IRO HnT SYE with Front DS, Cragar Blk D-Window 15x8 4"bs, General Grabber AT2s 33x12.50, Rear Hitch with Warn D-Ring Shackle, Dynomax Super Turbo, HD Offroad Shackle Relocation brackets, IRO Front Hooks, Fenders Trimmed, Stock Flares relocated, floor pans replaced.
It helps to degrease an engine (and keep it degreased) so as to find oil leaks early before they become problematic.
I clean my engines on my vehicles with degreaser at least once per year for exactly that reason.
A side benefit is that, with the grease not all over everything, the grease does not accumulate grit, and the grit does not chew up your wrenches and sockets. Yeah, I have worked on enough cars over the past 35 years that I have actually worn out sockets with grit chewing them up.
WANTED--MJ Comanche to restore. Must be solid, (relatively) rust free chassis. Send me a PM if you have a line on one that is for sale.