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post #1 of 38 Old 08-22-2005, 11:17 PM Thread Starter
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The last thread we will ever need.

Well, maybe not the last but this will answer a lot of commonly asked questions that are answered the same way every day. Now we can just link to this thread. I wrote a couple posts from personal experiance on subjects I notice to pop up every day. Maybe a mod can sticky this if it is worthy enough. And possibly keep an eye on it to keep it all cleaned up otherwise it will turn into a thread of misinformation and conflicting advice like the other threads tend to do.

And as info is posted that may add to or modify what I originally wrote, I'll try to edit the posts to reflect that so those looking for answers won't have to read through pages and pages of posts.



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post #2 of 38 Old 08-22-2005, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
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For starters, if you are going to ask if you need a SYE and CV shaft then you probably do. (someone has that in their sig and its so true its not funny)

How to use the front driveshaft in the rear

So a couple months ago I was getting ready to do a SYE and CV shaft in my XJ when a friend pointed out that the front shaft is a CV and may work. So after much research I found what it would take to do, did it, and seems that everyone wants to do this mod now and there is a lot of untrue info is spread.

For starters, I can only confirm that this will work if you have a 4.0, AW4, and 8.25 rear axle. From what Iíve learned if you have the D35 the shaft will be too short in which case you could have it lengthened. I have never tried this on a D35 so maybe someday someone will and let us know how it worked or didnít.

On my XJ I have the RE 4.5Ē Superflex kit with full packs in the rear. It sits at about 6Ē in the rear and the shaft has about an inch left of compression. So that leads me to believe that this wouldnít be a good idea with any less lift as the shaft will be too long.

Picking a front shaft: All you need to find is that it is a 4.0 and AW4 and any year will work. There is a lot of misinformation about what years of XJ you need to find the shaft out of. Some people say that the newer years are stronger; some say older shafts are too weak. Only thing I can confirm is that I pulled mine from a 89 XJ and have no problems. In fact I compared the shaft to my 97 front shaft, a friends 2000 front shaft, and the front shaft from a 94 Grand Cherokee and guess what, identical in every way on each application. Even had the same part numbers stamped on them and same factory weights. To back up that they are all the same I had a friend pull them up in the computer at the parts store he works at and the computer shows that all XJís with the 4.0 and AW4 take the same shaft and parts.

Picking a SYE: If you have a 95 or older you need a full SYE kit. If you have a 96+ you can choose between the full replacement SYE or the so popular RE hack and tap. It is debated back and forth whether the HnT is a good idea so Iíll make it simple. If you want the strongest possible way to go or plan on doing much low range rock crawling, get the full replacement shaft. If you arenít running a 4:1 low range, 35Ē or smaller tires, and donít plan on jumping your XJ or abusing to the point it is a trail only rig, then you are probably ok with the HnT. I use the HnT in my XJ with 33ís and have no problems. I donít push my XJ super hard and donít care to rock crawl so I donít foresee ever having any problems. Either way, its up to you. Iíve never seen a HnT fail so Iím not concerned.

If you plan on using the HnT you are going to need Spicer part #211229x. This is the part that attaches to the driveshaft via U-joint and bolts to the RE HnT. You can get the part at most parts stores. It is still in production so there is no shortage of it. The parts store may not have it in stock but Iím sure they can get it. I got mine at Napa for about $50. I also found it at Six States for a few dollars more.

If you want to really make it a budget project you can find that spicer part #211229x in the junkyard on the following cars:

80-83 T-birds
82-83 continentals
80-82 Cougar XR-7

Those are the cars that use that part stock and is why the part is still in production.

If youíre gonna do the mod you should take some of the money you saved and buy new U-joints. You can run on the old ones if you want but they are a wear part and can be worn out. I opted to replace mine when I did the mod so that I have the peace of mind of knowing they are all new.

Here is a pic of my XJ with RE HnT and front shaft in the rear.


The spicer part


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post #3 of 38 Old 08-22-2005, 11:19 PM Thread Starter
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Picking a 4.5Ē lift (the RE vs. Rustyís discussion)

Alright, this seems to pop up every day at least and every day the same things get posted. So Iím gonna put it all right here so we can just link to it. For starters, this isnít gonna be a discussion on which one is better quality wise. In fact I hear the same complaints from both kits and believe them to be nearly identical when looking at quality.

Most people get excited over the Rustyís kit because they see that it is about $300 cheaper and yields the same amount of lift. I myself got excited about it also when I was shopping for a lift as Rustyís is known to have quality parts and that would be $300 to spend elsewhere.

But here are the facts about the two kits. Even though the RE kit is $300 more, you get well over $300 more in parts that you are going to want/need anyways. The Rusyís kit doesnít come with upper control arms, sway bar quick disconnects, or shipping. All things that are included in the RE kit. When you consider that quick discoís are about $100, upper control arms are $150, and shipping is well over $100 (usually closer to $150), then youíll see why the RE kit is a better value. If you feel that you donít need discos or UCAís then by all means get the Rustyís kit and save some cash, Iím sure youíll be more than please with it. But Iíve never run into someone who didnít have either who didnít wish that they did.

Just for the record I run the RE 4.5Ē Superflex kit which has been a great setup and very very complete. I purchased it for $950 shipped to my door through www.jeepinoutfitters.com. RE is very good about backing their product and if they do make a mistake they do everything they can to correct it. Iíve also heard the same about Rustyís but I have no personal experience with them.


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post #4 of 38 Old 08-22-2005, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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Improving XJ gas mileage

First off, no matter what anyone tells you there is no magic in a bottle that will get you great gas mileage in your XJ. Even bone stock running in tip top shape and being easy on the gas will rarely get you better than 21-23mpg. But there are some things you can do to make the best of what you have.

1) The best thing you can do to improve your mileage is stay off the gas. Pretend there is an egg between your foot and the pedal. Its no secret that being easy on the throttle will get you the best mileage yet no one ever wants to believe it. keep your foot out of the throttle!!!

2) Basic maintenance can help. Keep your air filter clean, change your oil regularly, make sure your plugs are in good shape, etc. etc. Basic maintenance can help but if you are in tip top running shape to start you wonít see a big increase. But it canít hurt.

3) Sea Foam can help. If your injectors are clogged it can help greatly. Basically just like running injector cleaner or techron but Sea Foam seems to work almost instantly and more effectively than other chemicals. Again, if your XJ is in tip top running shape with non clogged injectors you probably wonít see much improvement but it defiantly canít hurt.

4) Tire pressure. Check your tire pressure regularly to make sure your tires are correctly inflated for street use. Just being a few pounds under can really affect your mileage. Some people actually run a higher pressure which usually gains some mileage but can have adverse effects on your tire wear pattern. I personally run a couple pounds extra and have never noticed a problem.

5) Adjusting your TPS can help make your engine run more efficiently There are several write ups available on how to do this. Here is one for those who are having problems searching a short term: http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl232i.htm

6) Synthetic gear oil in differentials can help but Iíve never heard of a noticeable gain but again, it canít hurt.

Whatever you do, donít fall for the gimmicks like the Tornado or electic turbos or anything. If it sounds too good to be true then it probably is. Also keep in mind that adding a roof rack, roof lights, or even a spare tire up there can greatly reduce mileage. Those items add a lot of drag and make a big difference.


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Last edited by Twisted; 08-24-2005 at 12:28 PM.
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post #5 of 38 Old 08-22-2005, 11:28 PM Thread Starter
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Synthetic vs. conventional oil

Everyone has an opinion about this and most are correct. To make it simple, you can run conventional oil and more than likely never ever ever have a problem. If you want to run a little nicer quality oil that takes heat better, doesn't break down easily, and improves wear and tear then run synthetic.

One of my opinions about the subject is that choose one or the other. Stay away from synthetic blends as I think they are a crock.

You will get a lot of people telling you that synthetic oil in a high mileage vehicle will cause leaks. This is not necessarily true. What happens is that running conventional oil over time builds up sludge inside the motor. As time goes on the seals in your motor tend to go bad, its just an automotive fact. The sludge that has built up will sometimes be so thick that it self seals the areas that the factory seal has started to age and go bad.

Synthetic oil has very strong cleaning properties. It cleans your motor of sludge and such which is healthy for the motor but can remove the sludge that is helping keep it sealed up. So sometimes a "hidden" leak can become visable because the synthetic oil cleaned it up. Usually it is at a seal that can be easily replaced so in a sense synthetic oil just uncovers hidden leaks you didn't know you had.


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post #6 of 38 Old 08-23-2005, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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TC Drop kit, removing the stud

It seems a lot of people have trouble removing the stud to install their TC drop kit. This is understandable as that stud can be a PITA to get out. I'm gonna list a couple methods to start off with and more than likely will get it out.

1) Its been said many times so I'll say it again. Spray it with penetrating oil before you try to remove it. PB Blaster is a very recomended oil by many people and I've also had great luck with it. I've seen it at WalMart, Bimart, Napa, and a few other places so it is easy to find and is less then $5 a can. The best way to make this effective is to spray the stud every day a week in advance. This will give the oil plenty of time to work on those real stubborn studs.

2) Several people have been successful threading a couple nuts onto the stud, tack welding them, and then using a wrench to back the stud out. This should be work on most applications except for the real stuck ones.

3) Heat. This is the method I used on mine. Used a small torch like a plumbers torch and heat the stud up. (This will work on nearly all stuck bolts/studs) The high heat makes the metal expand and contract which can loosen it up. Be carefull not to burn yourself, remember the stud and area around it will remain hot for a little while. After heating it up I was able to remove mine with a pair of vise grips. You could also do step #2 as well as heat.

4) If none of these options work remember, constant pressure will eventually loosen anything. Just keep working at it.


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post #7 of 38 Old 08-23-2005, 10:20 PM
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i'm impressed... I got another question for you to address. Will "X" size tires fit on "X" amount of lift?
the answer... yes

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post #8 of 38 Old 08-23-2005, 10:38 PM
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Good write-up on the front driveshaft swap to rear.

But... Are you aware of this thread?:

Tech links for FAQ. Most of the answers are here!

Eric
2000 XJ "PROJECT RUBICON" 3-link front / 4-link rear / coilovers / running 37's on Dana 60s
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post #9 of 38 Old 08-23-2005, 10:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricsXJ
Good write-up on the front driveshaft swap to rear.

But... Are you aware of this thread?:

Tech links for FAQ. Most of the answers are here!
Yeah, I've gotten a lot of useful info from that thread. But seems that the things I mentioned in this post aren't covered really. This is just kind of my personal experience on things and hopefully it helps some who aren't helped in that other thread.

This way the things I find myself typing over and over again can just be linked to this thread. Saves me the typing time and hopefully helps someone.


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post #10 of 38 Old 08-24-2005, 12:16 PM
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Could you link to a thread about adjusting the TPS? "TPS" is too short of a term to search on and the link in the FAQ only has instructions on how to do it to an older model.

Or is it the same through all the years?

Ron Paul 2008
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post #11 of 38 Old 08-24-2005, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djzero
Could you link to a thread about adjusting the TPS? "TPS" is too short of a term to search on and the link in the FAQ only has instructions on how to do it to an older model.

Or is it the same through all the years?
Edited the original post to include this link: http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl232i.htm


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post #12 of 38 Old 08-24-2005, 03:18 PM
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when you want to search for a word that is less than 4 letters, as in OME, OEM, TPS, SYE, etc. add a * at the end to make it 4 letters and it throws in a random letter so it allows you to search for stuff like that. just a little search pointer

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post #13 of 38 Old 08-24-2005, 06:53 PM
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ahh I knew there must be a way to search three letter words. Thanks Cherokee xj

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All too stock for now.
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post #14 of 38 Old 10-05-2005, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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The "How to upgrade my headlights" discussion"

1) A lot of people run the SilverStars with no problems. They are probably the least expensive option for headlight upgrades that actually improve some over stock lighting. Most noticeable is the whiter color you get out of them. They have a slight hint of blue but not enough to be "ricer" or anything.

2) Your next best bet (which of course cost more) is to do an H4 conversion. This is a real popular conversion with a couple options. First you have to decide on which H4 housings you want. Here is a breakdown of the 3 based on my personal opinion. A lot will agree, some will disagree, so just remember its just my personal opinion.

- Ebay housings (anything that is less than $20 each, often called "diamond cut" or some other sly disguise of a name: Avoid them at all costs. Plastic housings that can melt, non researched beam patterns, just blobs of light, basically cheap overseas made crap.

- Hella Housings: In my opinion they are the best. I run them on my personal XJ and have ran them in a couple prior vehicles. They give a sharp cutoff so you don't blind on coming traffic. The project light decently to the sides as very well straight ahead. They have a small beam towards the right that aims up a little to light up the right side a little more. They are roughly $80/pair online. I've found them for about $95/pair locally.

- Cibie Housings: I personally have never used these nor seen one in person but I have read tons and tons of personal reviews of these headlights. After filtering out the reviews that are obviously so good because the owner is so proud of their purchase, I've learned that these housings are an equal to the Hella's. The tend to shine to the sides a little better but not as far straight out. Their high beam is a little more precisely aimed. But you also pay more for them. Best prices I was finding was about $120/pair online, I've never found them locally.

- IPF Housings: are very popular. I've seen them in person and they appear to work well untill put side by side with a Hella or Cibie where it is obvious they are not as effecient or precise. While IPF tends to make quality parts and are popular in the off road market it is understandable why many people still use them and swear by them. They are still a definate upgrade over stock sealed beams but are a decent 3rd compared to the Hella or Cibie options.

3) Once you choose a housing you need to choose a bulb. Aftermarket bulbs are an area I've had a ton of personal experience as I've ran just about every high dollar bulb out there. (remember that last sentence). I'm gonna not necessarily name brands here but give you some basics about headlight bulbs...

- A 55 watt bulb can only make 55 watts of light. Several companies advertise and promote their bulbs as 55/60w ---> 100/110w. What they are trying to say is that for whatever special reason their bulb that is only 55w will produce the equivelent of 100 watts. Not true, it is a carefully worded marketing scheme that isn't technically false advertising but is definatly misleading.

- The only way to get 80w of light output is from an 80w bulb. Don't fall into the marketing schemes.

- All those really neat blue, superwhite, hyperwhite, crystal ion, etc. coatings don't really help. If your goal is to produce a certain color light or want to imitate HID by getting a "HID" type bulb then there are many quality brands and models to choose from. But if your goal is to produce as much safe useable light as you can, these are not for you. All those "special" coatings they put on to create those colors and advertise as producing higher wattage actually lower your light output. At first glance in dry conditions it may appear that these bulbs are brighter and thats because the whiter light is a lot more noticeable in dry conditions to the naked eye. It tends to appear to reflect more and tricks the eye a little. But once into stormy wet weather this super white color will be nearly useless at moisture tends to absorb it more than reflect it.

- You can run any 55w bulb safely with your stock wiring doing no upgrades. Even if they advertise it as "projected" 100w, as long as it is a 55w bulb at heart. If you want to run higher wattage bulbs you will need an upgraded harness to do so safely. More to come about the harness next.

4) Upgraded Harness: is a must if you want to safely run higher wattage bulbs. Many people will tell you that they have run xx watt bulbs on stock wiring with no problems and while this may be true, its asking for trouble. A stock headlight wiring harness in many vehicles is made of thin wire which is routed poorly through many plugs and a switch. They tend to not deliver a full 12volts to the headlights, let alone the 12.5-14 volts that most alternators/batteries actually run at. The upgraded harness essentially uses 30amp relays to pull power directly from the battery/alternator using thicker wire to the headlights themselves. There are very few connections in between and no switch as the relays act as the switch. Delivering slightly higher voltage at a greater amperage capacity makes a large improvement in how your headlights perform. There are several manufacturers of these harnesses and tend to range $90-$150. I also make these harnesses and sell them at a more affordable price. If you are interested in one PM me and we can talk.

With all that said let me tell you about my personal setup right now. I run Hella housings along with one of my upgraded harnesses. I ran with high dollar PIAA bulbs untill a week ago when I swapped them out for some $10 no name 80/100w made in Germany bulbs. Let me tell you this, these are the cheapest bulbs I've ever bought and they are the biggest upgrade I've made over any of my past bulbs. I don't have the bling hyper white color or anything but I tell you what, they throw down some light and in stormy wet weather, I can still see where I'm going.


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post #15 of 38 Old 10-05-2005, 09:51 AM
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how aboot RE SuperRide vs SuperFlex. Seems like that topic comes up once a week!

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'95 XJ, RE 5.5", 35" MT/Rs, D30 w/hubs & ARB, D44 w/Detroit, 4.56s, C4x4 bumpers, etc, etc.
'00 TJ, SOLD, wife's, RE 4.5" long-arm, 35" MT/Rs, D30+OX, D44+ARB, 4.88s, full cage, winch, C4x4 & Jeeperman bumpers, etc, etc.



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