just will not start! - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 9 Old 11-12-2013, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
tboTERROR
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just will not start!

Ok. Soi drove my jeep with no issues and then the next day it would not start. I immediately thought battery... Must have left a light on or something. Nope. Jump box and jumper cables would not get it going. Ok. Possibly the alternator (though it still should have jumped) or parasitic drain. Nope. Tested the alternator, tested the fuses. All pass. I decided to go back to the battery. Even though I bought it a couple months ago; i had it tested. Passed. My next choice was ignition starter switch. Replaced it and still will not start. I am at my wits end with this thing.

Things it is doing: lights turn on when doors open, gages and dash turn on when the key is in on position, I can hear the fuel pump go when the key is turned, the starter (which is also new) clicks.

With the jump box attached I get the battery gage to read around 13-14.

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post #2 of 9 Old 11-12-2013, 03:35 PM
psychoteen101
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Try giving the starter a few whacks with a hammer. Just because its new, doesnt mean it couldnt have failed already. If the starter is clicking and not turning the motor over, its most likely going to be your problem. If its new, it should be under warranty.

1996 Jeep Cherokee- Project-- Rusty's 8in long arm, SYE kit, Teraflex driveshaft, Cragar soft 8's 15x10 with 33x12.5 Firestone Destination MT's, Eaton Tru Trac in the front
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post #3 of 9 Old 11-12-2013, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
tboTERROR
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How hard?
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post #4 of 9 Old 11-12-2013, 04:19 PM
psychoteen101
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not whaling on it, but a pretty decent hit. Usually its hard to get in there to give it a full on swing with the hammer, so you should be fine. Hit it a few times while someone tries to crank it over. If it starts to turn over after youve been hitting on it, thats a dead giveaway that the starter has failed.

1996 Jeep Cherokee- Project-- Rusty's 8in long arm, SYE kit, Teraflex driveshaft, Cragar soft 8's 15x10 with 33x12.5 Firestone Destination MT's, Eaton Tru Trac in the front
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post #5 of 9 Old 11-12-2013, 04:20 PM
psychoteen101
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Also, make sure your connections are clean and tight.

1996 Jeep Cherokee- Project-- Rusty's 8in long arm, SYE kit, Teraflex driveshaft, Cragar soft 8's 15x10 with 33x12.5 Firestone Destination MT's, Eaton Tru Trac in the front
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post #6 of 9 Old 11-12-2013, 07:43 PM
CJ7-Tim
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Clicking and not starting is usually a low voltage issue from:

• a failing battery
• a failing alternator
• dirty, corroded, or loose wire connections
• internally corroded battery wires
• leaving the lights on

Perform routine maintenance of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables or connectors and replace as needed. Copper wires should be copper color, not black or green. Do the same for the grounding wires from the starter to engine block, the ground wires at the coil, and the ground wires from the battery and engine to the Jeep's frame/body. You must remove, wire brush, and clean until shiny the cable/wire ends and whatever they bolt to.

Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage, bad connections, or poor grounds.

Place your DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Multi-Meter) on the 20 volt scale. First check battery voltage by placing your multi-meter's positive lead on the battery's positive post ( the actual post, not the clamp ) and the negative lead on the negative post. You need a minimum of 12 volts to continue testing. Next, leave your meter connected and take a reading while the engine is cranking. Record this voltage reading. Now connect your positive lead to the battery terminal stud on the starter and the negative lead to the starter housing. Again, crank the engine and record the voltage reading. If the voltage reading at the starter is not within 1 volt of battery voltage then you have excessive voltage drop in the starter circuit.

Typical voltage drop maximums:

• starter circuit (including starter solenoid) = 0.60 volt
• battery post to battery terminal end = zero volts
• battery main cable (measured end to end) 0.20 volt
• starter solenoid = 0.20 volt
• battery negative post to alternator metal frame = 0.20 volt
• negative main cable to engine block = 0.20 volt
• negative battery post to starter metal frame = 0.30
• battery positive post to alternator b+stud = 0.5 volt with maximum charging load applied (all accessories turned on)

Test the output at the alternator with your volts/ohms multi-meter. You should be measuring 13.8-14.4 volts. Load testing the alternator is still recommended.

Exchange the ASD relay with the Starter relay in the fuse box under the hood near the battery.

Have your helper turn the ignition key to START while you tap on the starter with a hammer. If the engine starts, you probably need a new starter.

Have the battery, starter, and the alternator Load Tested for proper function in a test machine that applies a simulated work load. Handheld testers are inaccurate and will often pass faulty parts.

.

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post #7 of 9 Old 11-13-2013, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
tboTERROR
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I had all of the stuff tested at auto zone
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post #8 of 9 Old 11-13-2013, 11:10 AM
CJ7-Tim
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Around here we call it IdiotZone, and we test our own stuff so we can be sure the testing was done right.

.

A recent Gallup public opinion poll shows the NRA, at 58% approval, has a higher approval rating than either Hillary Clinton or Barack Obama.

Progressive Liberalism: Bringing you new Healthcare ideas so wonderful, they have to include mandatory participation ...

Originally Posted by Ronald W. Reagan: Government is not the solution to our problems; Government is the problem.
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post #9 of 9 Old 11-13-2013, 01:48 PM
bluejunior
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X2 on idiot zone, especially for electronics. Have you looked into your cps? The sudden failure and crank no start are symptomatic of the sensor. Get one from nappa or oreilly's. I got stuck with an auto one (I was stranded) and it crapped out on me in 9 months. I've heard similar stories from others.

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