Son gave a jump, may have hooked up backwards. ( we don't know) Now his car wont start. Replaced distributer, coil pack, distributer cap. Swapped relays, checked fuses. Its not getting power to the plug in on the coil pack. Tested with volt meter, When tested the output side, it jumps to 12-14 volts for a sec, then drops to 0. Any suggestions? Could it be all relays be affected?
The most likely cause of it cranks and cranks but won't start up is the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) located on the transmission bell housing. Often this part is also referred to as the CranKshaft Position Sensor (CKP). CPS/CKP failure is very common. The CPS/CKP can stop working with no warning or symptoms and the engine will not run or the engine may randomly stall for no apparent reason. Crank Position Sensors can have intermittent “thermal failure”. This means that the CPS/CKP fails when engine gets hot, but works again when it cools back down.
- Starter cranks and cranks but engine won't start up
- Fuel gauge and voltage gauges may not work or display properly.
- You sometimes will have No Bus on the odometer after 30-60 seconds.
- A failed CPS/CKP may or may not throw a CEL trouble code.
- No spark at the spark plugs.
- Fuel pump should run and prime for 3-5 seconds.
If the CPS/CKP is failed sometimes the OBD-II code reader cannot make a connection to the computer or cannot read Check Engine Light/MIL codes because the CPS/CKP has failed.
Diagnostic steps to confirm the CPS is the cause of your no-start
-You should be able to verify a bad cps, by unplugging it, and turning the ignition key to on. If the voltage gauge and/or the fuel gauge now displays correctly, replace the CPS.
-Unplugging and reconnecting the CPS sensor where it connect to the main harness near the back of the intake manifold usually resets the ECU and if the jeep fires right up after doing this you can bet that the CPS is faulty and needs to be replaced.
-Exchange the fuel pump relay and the ASD relay with one of the other similar ones in the PDC to eliminate the relays as the cause of the no-start Confirm that the fuel pump to runs for 3-5 seconds when you turn the ignition key to ON.
-Eliminate the NSS as a cause of no start. Wiggle the shift lever at the same time you try to start. Put the transmission in Neutral and do the same. Do the reverse lights come on when the shifter is in Reverse?
-Inspect the wires and wire connectors at the O2 sensors on the exhausts pipe. A short circuit from melted insulation or from broken O2 sensor wires can blow a fuse and the ECU/ECM will lose communication.
If you buy a new CPS, get a genuine Jeep CPS, or the premium one from NAPA. Cheap crappy “Lifetime Warranty” parts are often out of specification or even failed right out of the box. They usually also have a shorter service life than better quality parts. Buy good quality repair parts and genuine Jeep sensors for best results.
Begin with basic trouble shooting of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables and replace as needed. Do the same for the grounding wires from the battery and engine to the Cherokee's frame/body. Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage or poor grounds and the ECM/ECU will behave oddly until you remedy this.
Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector (CPS/CKP)
TESTING PROCEDURE 1991 – 2001 4.0L H.O. engines
1. Near the rear of intake manifold, disconnect sensor pigtail harness connector from main wiring harness.
2. Place an ohmmeter across terminals B and C (See Image). Ohmmeter should be set to the 10K-or-2OK scale for this test.
3. The meter reading should be open (infinite resistance). Replace sensor if a low resistance is indicated.
TESTING PROCEDURE for 1987 – 1990 4.0 L engines
Test # 1 - Get a volt/ohm meter and set it to read 0 - 500 ohms. Unplug the CPS and measure across the CPS connector's A & B leads. Your meter should show a CPS resistance of between 125 - 275 ohms. If the CPS is out of that range by much, replace it.
Test # 2 - You'll need a helper for this one. Set the volt/ohm meter to read 0 - 5 AC volts or the closest AC Volts scale your meter has to this range. Measure across the CPS leads for voltage generated as your helper cranks the engine. (The engine can't fire up without the CPS connected but watch for moving parts just the same!) The meter should show .5 - .8 VAC when cranking. (That's between 1/2 and 1 volt AC.) If it's below .5vac, replace it.
The 2000 and 2001 will have the CPS in the same location on the bell housing, but the wire connector is on the passenger side, near or
on top of the Transfer case, not as shown in the diagram below. Simply follow the wire from the sensor to the connector.
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Thanks! Leaving girlfriend's early this morning and same symptoms, noticed the "no bus" on the dash, search on the forum and you have the answer.
Will be testing after work today. Darn, have to take my girl's car...
Wrenching isn't the problem, it's the brains attached to the hands...unfortunately, I'm lacking some of the former so that's why I'm asking you guys!!
This happened to me after being boosted, not giving a boost. I don't know if it had anything to do with it but I had at the time connected the jumper cables to chassis and +, instead of directly clamping Neg. to the battery. I replaced the ASD relay after much testing. If the input voltages aren't within parameters for the Crank sensor this will be what is causing it. Wrong voltages will convince your computer the crank sensor has failed and it will not fire the plugs.
Key on the ignition and plug the voltmeter into the sensor's ground and to the 5V sensor input lead. You should read 5v for about 30 seconds until the ECM shuts down the ignition system to save power. If you don't get something very close, replace the ASD relay. Located in Fuse/Relay panel under the hood.
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