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Unread 05-01-2009, 10:10 AM   #1
Magus2727
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JB Weld and its use for axle tube welding?

So I am working on a C8.25 build during the summer (have a 29 spline from a JY jeep). I have already cleaned up the axle (took off the inch of rust and used a wire wheel to take it down to metal in most places), and I will be replacing the seals soon. While I am awaiting the funds for shafts, gears, and locker I am doing little things.

I wanted to make the 8.25 as strong as possible, so from hearing and seeing people weld the Ford 8.8 and the D35 and even on the D44, I thought it would be a good idea to also do it on the 8.25. I got a small acetylene welder/torch to try and weld and needless to say by the time I get it hot enough to start welding the oxygen tank goes out.

So, I thought hey I have some large tubes of JB weld. I have sanded/ground down to metal on the tube and the pumpkin where the JB weld will be applied and have put a few layers on with grinding/sanding down of layers between application. Will this do anything? or was it a waste of time? I know there has only been a hand full of documented cases of the tubes ever actually spinning.

Would this "extra strength" add anything?

I also will be using a full gas mig welder for a truss later in the month... Would it be advised to get some truss's to add into the main truss and tie the truss into the pumpkin?

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Unread 05-01-2009, 10:21 AM   #2
chainerx
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I would think it isn't worth the effort. If you're really concerned about spinning a tube, pay to have it professionally welded. If not, wait until you have the equipment to do it yourself later on.
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Unread 05-01-2009, 10:57 AM   #3
JRW7072009
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If its going to spin JB weld will not hold it, from what I hear it not very common and pretty hard to spin them. You should be very careful heating up any part of your axle real hot you can warp it or even make it weak, even when you weld on it it should be done carefully and allow time to cool between welds. Just FYI

Last edited by JRW7072009; 05-01-2009 at 12:31 PM..
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Unread 05-01-2009, 11:11 AM   #4
justanotherjpr
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x2 if you're going to spin a tube, JB isn't going to stop it.
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Unread 05-01-2009, 12:50 PM   #5
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Unread 05-01-2009, 12:53 PM   #6
b1gkyl3
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I think you should be fine using a glue gun instead of JB weld
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Unread 05-01-2009, 01:16 PM   #7
chainerx
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I just got a funny picture in my head of an axle truss jb-welded on.
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Unread 05-01-2009, 01:39 PM   #8
Magus2727
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I knew I was going to get flamed for asking and I am worried about actually spinning my axle tubes


Properties of JB Weld:
Properties (psi)
Tensile Strength: 3960
Adhesion: 1800
Flex Strength: 7320
Tensile Lap Shear: 1040
Shrinkage: 0.0%
Resistant to: 500 F

Well I knew that it would not be any were close to as strong as an actual weld (although I have seen JB weld do amazing things). It would seam like it would do something more then nothing at all... and with the 8.25 tube being very unlikely to spin in the first place...

If any thing It makes for a better looking transition between the tube and the differential. And keeps it from further rusting in that part.

O well it was only 16 bucks for the JB weld (and I still have half of the tube's left)
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1995 Jeep Sport Cherokee 4x4 with an Auto and 4.0L
B&M Transmission Cooler and Autometer Tranny Temp Gauge, Ruff Stuff Diff Cover on D30.
Taraflex 1.5" BB (rear shackle only), HD Quadratec leaf springs, RE 3.5" front springs, OME Long shocks, JKS Adjustable Track Bar from K.O.R.
Daystar Control Arm Bushings, Bushwhacker Flairs, Rhino lining along bottom trim, AGR PS pump with Cooler & Filter.
Bored TB, APN Manifold, New Downpipe, Magnaflow High Flow Cat, Flowmaster Super 44.
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Unread 05-01-2009, 04:21 PM   #9
JRW7072009
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JB weld is pretty good stuff, I lived in SLC, UT for 26 years and if you are anywhere near SLC JB weld wont last through one winter there. Besides JB welding wont do anything for support on your axle. Take it to Teraflex, or Rollover Motor Sports, Rock Logic, or even 4 Wheel Parts in the SLC area or Mount Logan up north they wont charge a whole lot to do it. I would guess around $75 dollars or so if you have the truss already.
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Unread 05-01-2009, 05:11 PM   #10
Magus2727
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The JB weld was just on the axle tubes....

I am using a Mig Welder for the Truss... I am using a cousins full wire fed with Gas Mig Welder to fully weld the truss.

I did the axle tubes just more because I was board and though hey what the heck. I doubt that I will ever be wheeling any where any time soon where I would ever come close to twisting the tubes.
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1995 Jeep Sport Cherokee 4x4 with an Auto and 4.0L
B&M Transmission Cooler and Autometer Tranny Temp Gauge, Ruff Stuff Diff Cover on D30.
Taraflex 1.5" BB (rear shackle only), HD Quadratec leaf springs, RE 3.5" front springs, OME Long shocks, JKS Adjustable Track Bar from K.O.R.
Daystar Control Arm Bushings, Bushwhacker Flairs, Rhino lining along bottom trim, AGR PS pump with Cooler & Filter.
Bored TB, APN Manifold, New Downpipe, Magnaflow High Flow Cat, Flowmaster Super 44.
Dual Oil Relocation Kit running two K&N301 size filters, Autometer Digital Cobalt Oil Temp and Oil Pressure Gauge.
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Unread 05-01-2009, 05:35 PM   #11
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JB-Weld is essentially a specialised form of glue (it's basically a metal-bearing two-part epoxy.) However, a fusion process it ain't. Just like soldering, the "weldment" created using JB-weld doesn't do much more than stick two pieces together.

Welding is different - welding is a fusion process. The filler metal is usually the same as - or chemically close to - the base metals being fused. The weldment is a fill making up for where the two bits were melted together. And, two bits end up fused into a single bit - soldering and brazing can be eheated and pulled apart. JB-Weld, listed as 'resistant to 500*F,' looks like it can be heated and pulled apart as well

While the axle housing probably doesn't get that hot, you're not actually fusing anything together, and that's why you won't want to use it. Considering the brute force usually used to press the tubes in place from the off, you'll probably shear the JB about the time the axle tube would spin anyhow.

Weld it, or don't bother. JB won't hold up - you may as well just braze the thing in (Hell, the brazing will probably hold up better anyhow.)
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Unread 05-01-2009, 09:25 PM   #12
the_weirdo
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As others have said - using JB weld on your axle will be the same as using duct tape and string; in other words - no good.
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Unread 05-01-2009, 11:16 PM   #13
winkosmosis
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Just an aside... you know what's weird about JB Weld? They claim it's non toxic, but if you look at the MSDS that's obviously not true about each of the two parts before curing.
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Unread 05-03-2009, 03:45 PM   #14
b1gkyl3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magus2727 View Post
The JB weld was just on the axle tubes....

I am using a Mig Welder for the Truss... I am using a cousins full wire fed with Gas Mig Welder to fully weld the truss.
Why not MIG weld the tubes if your worried, or have someone who knows how to weld do it.
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Unread 05-05-2009, 11:05 PM   #15
ryan22ddd
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actually JB weld WOULD work better than chewing gum. I however am quite partial to chewing gum, especially double bubble. You have a delicious piece of gum for 3 seconds then it'll actually "cure" partially in your mouth, then you can apply it to a broken frame mount, drive shaft or tow hook...good as new!!! If you have no luck with those, i've even heard MIGHTY PUTTY will work wonders on the axle tubes.
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