alright everyone, i finally received my replacement banks header and 99-01 intake manifold for my 98 XJ 4.0
heres some pics of how it came out....
here i swapped
everything over to the new intake. 100% bolt on.
here i begin the mockup for the new vacuum line routing. I had to cut and extend the pcv and 2 vacuum lines on the side of the intake. the brake vacuum booster line was the only one i didn't have to modify. I also had no problems with the electrical connections to the throttle body or ckp sensor.
here it is all bolted up gettin ready to start after a quick once over.
all back together and runs like a champ.
Basically, the wholee job took me a total of 2.5 hrs with the a test drive. I noticed a definate difference in throttle response and a little more power throughout the rpm range. i would rate this as a 4 beer job hahah :cheers2:
what do you guys think? mpg gains will come after i fill it up sometime this week.
i bought the intake manifold on craigslist for $75 and the banks header was a warranty free replacement cuz the old one cracked on me. I also replaced the fuel injector O-rings being that they were dry and cracked ($13 at checker auto)
as for the write up...
first thing i removed the serpentine belt and removed the (3) 13 mm p/s pump bolts and set the pump to the side. (no need to disconnect hoses) Disconnect all the electrical connectors from throttle body, ckp sensor connector, and fuel injector connectors. remove wiring harness from the 3 studs on the head and pull up out of the way to make your work easier (i used a bungee cord to hold the harness) remove the 10 mm fuel line mounting bolt from the intake and disconnect the fuel line to the fuel rail. (a/c disconnect tools are needed) I then removed 4 vacuum lines from the intake and set them to the side. Disconnect the throttle body cables (throttle, TV cable and cruise cable) and set them aside. Now, get down on the ground and remove your (2) 15 mm exhaust flange mounting bolts. Now you can start removing the 14 mm mounting bolts that hold your intake and header to the head. this is probably the hardest part... getting to the lower mounting bolts. Some you can get from the top and others from the bottom. whatever is more comfortable for you. Now you can remove your intake and exhaust header. remove the old gasket and clean the head (brake leen and gasket scraper works well)
Basically, now you can start swapping over the injectors, fuel rail, brass vacuum nipples (i used some teflon tape on the threads) throttle body and cable bracket. Like i said, everything was 100% bolt on for me. the vacuum lines i modified, i just cut and installed new vacuum line over the hard lines to extend them. Now just everything is backwards for the installation. sorry but i don't have any torque specs for you guys, someone on here probably knows it though. Just make sure you torque your manifold working from the center bolts and out. If i missed anything. let me know. i'll do my best to fill you guys in. thanks for the replys
I need to post a picture of my swap which I did last weekend, you needed to swap the temp sensor to the other side of the throttle body, then all of the electric lines will fit, and you only have to extend the booster hose. Made things a lot easier. Also reach between the header and block to get to the bottom bolts from the front of the engine. Do not try to use extensions to get to those bolts, it is real easy to get to with a gear wrench in 14mm. With the APN you cannot get a torque wrench on some of the bottom. I only ran into problems where I had to clearance the APN header and intake. It would be good for people to know which headers do fit. The APN does not without a good wacking as has been shown in many threads.
Best engine mod I have done so far and can usually be done for under $200. I also took the opportunity to do my water pump, thermostat, and lower radiator hose. It would also be a good time to change the engine mount on the drivers side.
Oh something else I have never seen anybody talk about on here, I took the opportunity to tighten the wear adjustment on my steering box to take out the slop. It was never noticeable until I lifted and put on the tires. You need a 16mm wrench I think and a 1/4" allen. On the top of the box you will see this, you loosen the lock nut and the turn the allen bolt in. This will mesh the gears back together for a closer fit. Do this at your own risk, you can lock up your box too tight to drive.
I need to post a picture of my swap which I did last weekend, you needed to swap the temp sensor to the other side of the throttle body, then all of the electric lines will fit, and you only have to extend the booster hose. Made things a lot easier. Also reach between the header and block to get to the bottom bolts from the front of the engine. Do not try to use extensions to get to those bolts, it is real easy to get to with a gear wrench in 14mm. With the APN you cannot get a torque wrench on some of the bottom. I only ran into problems where I had to clearance the APN header and intake. It would be good for people to know which headers do fit. The APN does not without a good wacking as has been shown in many threads.
Best engine mod I have done so far and can usually be done for under $200. I also took the opportunity to do my water pump, thermostat, and lower radiator hose. It would also be a good time to change the engine mount on the drivers side.
Oh something else I have never seen anybody talk about on here, I took the opportunity to tighten the wear adjustment on my steering box to take out the slop. It was never noticeable until I lifted and put on the tires. You need a 16mm wrench I think and a 1/4" allen. On the top of the box you will see this, you loosen the lock nut and the turn the allen bolt in. This will mesh the gears back together for a closer fit. Do this at your own risk, you can lock up your box too tight to drive.
Oh something else I have never seen anybody talk about on here, I took the opportunity to tighten the wear adjustment on my steering box to take out the slop. It was never noticeable until I lifted and put on the tires. You need a 16mm wrench I think and a 1/4" allen. On the top of the box you will see this, you loosen the lock nut and the turn the allen bolt in. This will mesh the gears back together for a closer fit. Do this at your own risk, you can lock up your box too tight to drive.
actually: yes, this is under sticky and I hope i never need to do this, but most gearboxes are tight. good find.
the original writeup is on the forum's sticky pages
So after 2 years of playing with the idea, I finally did this swap today. Was pretty straightforward and with my buddy's gracious help we got everything put on with minimal fuss....... except for the belt!!! How the hell do you route that thing??! Im using the gatorback belt recommended by the original poster...
No matter what we tried the belt keeps rubbing up on the timing mark indicator on the crank pulley!
Here's some pics... I had to push the ZJ into the garage and give up for the night.. Any ideas?
I want to bump this to the top because I have the same problem. Am I just going to have to take a cutoff wheel to this? Or is there a way to get around it?
So I just got my 99+ intake back from my friend that sand blasted it...looks newer then new. I was showing it to another Jeep owner that tells me "That thing won't give you any power...you just wasted time and money." He sites an article in a recent JP magazine, an article I cannot find. Reportedly they dyno tested common "power myths" and found this intake to be a non-gain. Anyone know what he is talking about? Anyone agree? Anyone who has done it have any comment?
the 99' intake was designed to add 10 hp since the 99 cylinder heads had smaller exhaust valves (quicker cat converter lightoff due to higher exhaust velocity from the same volume of exhaust being forced through smaller exhaust valves) to reduce start up emissions.
to make up the lost hp, mopar engineers designed the equal length runners on the intake manifold instead of the "log" style older manifold.
IF you've upgraded your stock airflow on your exhaust and cold air intake/bored TB, then this newer style manifold works well and adds dynoed' power to your pre 99' xj motor.
My air box is stock. I plan on installing a tractor air canister and a cowel induction in the future. I'm going to bore the TB here at home with a dremel and the exhaust is..."free flowing" in that certain items were missing from it when I got it...so I'm hoping for gains when I put the intake on tomorrow. Anyone else have input?
Article in JP magazine claims it actually lost 3-5hp on their test vehicle but they do nothing to explain their testing methodology or anything....real data on this is really scarce.
well for everyone wondering... i work at autozone and i did read that article.... it was very informative, and they did say that it isnt going to increase any amount of power. the difference is the way the runners are routed; stock well at least for my 96 the runners are square and the plenum is a whole lot smaller. this set up gives you a good bit of torque. the newer intake has a much larger plenum and alot more round runners. this set up gives you a good bit of high end power.. now i did the swap along with a set of pacesetter headers and i noticed a whole lot more power but more than likely it was due to the header more than the intake.
I actually have that article from JP sitting in front of me and they really do explain how they lost power. Not sure if they had a CAI or bored throttle body though. If not I can see their point valid. They claim it was on Trasborg's 98 XJ (Project Mileage Master). But i read through all parts of the mileage master segments and didn't see the new manifold anywhere, but did see an AEM CAI and edge throttle body and programmer. This is what it says:
"While a free-flow intake manifold can deliver more power, its only going to allow as much air to flow as the cylinder head and camshaft will call for. Upping the intake runner volume too much will cause the intake charge to loose velocity, killing low and mid speed power and torque. On a '98-earlier engine running a stock camshaft and unported cylinder head, its wasted effort."
I dunno, They also say in this article that ignition system upgrades dont give you any power or mileage, but in the mileage master articles they say they do....soooo........do we trust JP? I think not since they are being paid by the companies. Notice in the "True Lies" article that anything that says its true....you can see a brand name and brand new product in the corresponding picture. Everything that says false is vague and most are pictures of old and used items......
I still want to do the intake manifold swap regardless of what JP says.
I read that article and think its more of an opinion than anything else. They weren't too clear what they tested it with. We all know that the 4.0L puts out more power when you upgrade both the intake and exhaust to help it "breathe" better, and that upgrading only the intake or only the exhaust won't be as effective. Did they test each part individually or with other parts such as exhaust so that the parts could work together? The intake might have more noticeable power on the road when cold air is flowing in, instead of being on a dyno. I don't really get how they lost power if its a better flowing intake, i'm sure the manufacturer wouldn't put it on the '99-'01 4.0's if it caused power loss. I also saw the article about how a bored out throttle body wouldn't do anything. I can understand a throttle body spacer not doing much, but a bored throttle body affects the flow and people have seen gains from it.
I like JP magazine but I think they need to do more testing before throwing out info like that. So they tried it on one '98 XJ? For all we know that XJ might not be running 100%... If they tried it on say 2 or 3 different XJs and got similar results than they would have more data to base their argument off of. :thumbsup:
So i just finished my intake swap with an APN header. Everything went together pretty easy except for the intake/exhaust bolt by #5 cylinder on the bottom side, my hands are just alittle too big but finally got it using both index fingers and proper placement of my tongue. I'll do a write-up with pics of how i ran the belt and vacuum lines when i get a pic hosting account and some time. :cheers2:
Problem: :brickwall
I lose all power at 4k rpms and the jeep just bucks until i shift. I reused my fuel rail from the 95 intake and bought all new vacuum lines for the fuel pressure regulator. I put new o-rings on the injectors 2 months ago when i replaced my head.
Anyone else have this problem after their swap? I've been looking around but cant find an answer.
Hello, newbie here. I've been following this post and researched alot about this swap. I did it to my 95 ZJ, from my experiance I noticed a power surge around 2-3500 rpm's. Also my 0-60 time fell back a second. Then I changed my injectors over to Ford Racings 4-tip 21 pound injectors, it made it a little smoother and crisper, now I've lost 1-2 mpg's. After welding my cracked manifold and made a bigger crack. I ordered a new header and plan on changing it over. Not sure wether to change the manifold back to stock though.
After driving around with 00 intake and header for a while, I can say also there is a power surge around 2-3500 rpm's. Under 2k the power increase isn't as pronounced, the motor doenst get bogged down as easy from short shifting thru the gears, there's a better throttle response and it just feels "lighter on its feet". You can almost feel the motor rearing up as you climb to 2k rpms where it opens a can of woop-a** up until you shift and squawk the tires.
I may need to upgrade my injectors or other fuel delivery stuff but i lose almost all power above 4k rpms but doesn't bother me much since the 2-3500 rpm boost makes up for it when getting on the highway and i don't run it up that high usually. Still working out the bugs as it doesnt like to idle smoothly at cold start where it takes a few minutes to even out and hesitates alittle bit between shifts but once warmed up it runs fine.
Overall its night and day going from stock to newer intake, header, hi-flo cat and muffler.
After driving around with 00 intake and header for a while, I can say also there is a power surge around 2-3500 rpm's. Under 2k the power increase isn't as pronounced, the motor doenst get bogged down as easy from short shifting thru the gears, there's a better throttle response and it just feels "lighter on its feet". You can almost feel the motor rearing up as you climb to 2k rpms where it opens a can of woop-a** up until you shift and squawk the tires.
I may need to upgrade my injectors or other fuel delivery stuff but i lose almost all power above 4k rpms but doesn't bother me much since the 2-3500 rpm boost makes up for it when getting on the highway and i don't run it up that high usually. Still working out the bugs as it doesnt like to idle smoothly at cold start where it takes a few minutes to even out and hesitates alittle bit between shifts but once warmed up it runs fine.
Overall its night and day going from stock to newer intake, header, hi-flo cat and muffler.
I think what everybody needs to understand is that the manifold swap doesnt increase or decrease the horsepower/torque, its just shifting the powerband over. JP probably meant that the lost hp/tq at peak , not meaning that they didnt gain it somewheres else.
I had a simalar thing happen with the chevy engine in my bayliner. I put an Edelbrock RPM manifold on my stock block. The torque pretty much disappeard if you gunned it from a stop but it has Ferrari passing power at 3-4k rpms
^ i believe he already had a bunch of mods done to his GC before the intake swap. So dont take those numbers as a whole truth but it is a good article.
I wish i swapped one part at a time to see what gives the biggest improvement as a stand alone but time is something i dont have much of. I was hoping that i could get away with using the 95 injectors and regulator but it does fall completely on its face at 4k rpms, kinda like a rev limiter but a little rougher feeling.
Has anyone had problems with the flange thickness differences between the exhaust and intake manifold? Ive noticed the the APN header is thicker than the 00 intake and I'm afraid this might be a problem. I 1st saw this somewhere but none of my searches bought it up.
WOW! i started this thread over a year ago and it has resurfaced.
Right in the common area at the collector. I had befriended a banks salesman a couple weeks ago and he said that they do have problems with them cracking. Honestly if i knew that, i would either replaced my exhaust manifold with an OEM replacement or a cheaper aftermarket one. Oh well. Still a nice manifold though. :laugh:
No its brand new. I did the swap the weekend before thanksgiving so a week ago. Its not the banks header cause that costs 500+ or something crazy :shhh:. Its the APN header @ ineedparts.com that costs $130. Its comes with intake/exhaust gasket, header doughnut and flange hardware :2thumbsup:
I'm hoping someone else did this setup because it looks like the gap differences are in the neighborhood 40-50 thousandths with the intake being shorter/skinnier. I dont have a caliper to measure the difference. It kinda looks like the difference caused the I/E bolts to bend towards the intake alittle. This "could" cause there not to be enough pressure against the intake creating a vacuum leak, which I'm afraid of. Shims could work but would be a major PITA on the lower bolts
I will try to get pics posted up of my install and problems after work.
No worries... the header was on there for about a year before it had cracked. Banks did come through on there warranty and they gave me an all new kit to install for free. I did the purchase through 4wheelparts. :thumbsup:
I dont know what all this crap about aftermarket headers is about, the stock one has fairly large pipes considering. Its the DOWNPIPE that needs to be adressed! I took mine off and used a pipe expander to get that crimp out. now that was an improvement
I redid the entire exhaust system with an APN Header, mandrel bent aftermarket downpipe, new O2 sensor hi-flow cat and dynomax muffler with no tailpipe yet (all = rumble!). I think my mounts are fine, i hope since Ive had my engine compartment torn apart twice this summer/fall time.
Anyone running APN header with 97+ intake? The last thing i need are messed up I/E bolts
:brickwall I just realized that the APN header says at it works with 91-99 XJ's. I used a 2000 intake and pump which means they must of changed the intake and exhaust mounting flange dimensions in 00' to thinner flanges then the older XJ's out:
I'm going to try to shim the bolts and see what happens :crying:
The site actually says it will work with: 1991-1999 Jeep Cherokee 1991-1999 Jeep Wrangler 1991-1999 Jeep Wagoneer - ??? 1991-1992 Jeep Comanche 1993-1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee
I'm going once i get time after getting rid of my parts jeep. The problem is I need to grind down the exhaust flange which will be tricky since all my power tools are in MI and I'm moving back there in a few weeks so getting there is kinda important.
I think for the time being I'm going to put my 95 intake back on, redo the vacuum lines again and figure out where my hesitation is coming from. It started just before my intake/header swap. This was I'll at least know how much the whole new exhaust system improved the performance.
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