Injector Swap Writeup for the 4.0L - Page 9 - JeepForum.com

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post #121 of 180 Old 05-08-2013, 06:39 PM
nysm1
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Now that I wouldn't be able to help with that, but it shouldn't differ to much... Just search on the forums more, something HAS to be here

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post #122 of 180 Old 05-08-2013, 07:33 PM
billybooster2
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There are only 4 thongs inportant;

1. Disconnect battery
2. Relieve fuel pressure at rail. Looks like a tire valve. Press it in and fuel spurts for a second.
3. Remove fuel lines from rail. There are two. One in. One out.
4.unscrew rail from manifold.
5. Rock rail with attached injectors out of manifold
6. Remove injectors. Follow previous procedures regarding caseline, silicone or other lubricant
7 reverse, reattach.
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post #123 of 180 Old 05-08-2013, 08:01 PM
Jeepuzzled
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billybooster2 View Post
There are only 4 thongs inportant;

1. Disconnect battery
2. Relieve fuel pressure at rail. Looks like a tire valve. Press it in and fuel spurts for a second.
3. Remove fuel lines from rail. There are two. One in. One out.
4.unscrew rail from manifold.
5. Rock rail with attached injectors out of manifold
6. Remove injectors. Follow previous procedures regarding caseline, silicone or other lubricant
7 reverse, reattach.
My concern is the fuel regulator that is attached to the front end of the rail. Do I pull it off the rail, or leave it in place connected to the rail and instead disconnect all the other tubes connected to it.
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post #124 of 180 Old 05-08-2013, 08:45 PM
billybooster2
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Leave it on. It only does something when pump is on.
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post #125 of 180 Old 05-09-2013, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
dukie564
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you do not have to remove the pressure regulator, just pull off the vacuum line. For the fuel lines squeeze the white tabs in and pull on the hose to remove them from the rail. If the injectors are rebuilt they should already have new orings on them. Rest of the procedure is the same.

1995 XJ Cherokee Sport
4.5" Homebrew Lift, 4.0L HO I-6, AX-15, NP231, D30(Open)/C8.25(Locked)
33x12.5 Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ Tires, 309,000 mi and runnin' strong
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/p...rt-xj-1297118/
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post #126 of 180 Old 05-10-2013, 01:54 AM
Jeepuzzled
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Originally Posted by dukie564 View Post
you do not have to remove the pressure regulator, just pull off the vacuum line. For the fuel lines squeeze the white tabs in and pull on the hose to remove them from the rail. If the injectors are rebuilt they should already have new orings on them. Rest of the procedure is the same.
Thanks for your reply. The 89 Comanche is a little bit different than the 95 Sport. I left the regulator on the rail, but I had to disconnect the fuel lines at the rear of the rail ( fuel input), and at the (front) regulator as well ( fuel return). The fuel lines use a 'quick connect' technology that requires replacing the clip, O rings ( 2) and spacer whenever you pull a fuel line apart. There is supposedly a Quick Connect repair kit that has the parts and plug tool for reinstallation, but just try locating one of those kits! That kit has a disposable plug that acts as a mounting tool to reinstall the O rings, spacer and clip on each fuel line connection. I tracked down the separate clips and O rings ( made by Dorman and available on Amazon), but nada on the installation plug.

UPDATE: Morris 4x4 supposedly has this kit. Their Part # 83502745 fuel line repair kit 5/16' fuel line $8.99 . I have ordered a couple of them and will give a future update on how well they work. It does come with the installation mounting tool.
UPDATEII: I received the kits and they worked like a charm to connect my fuel lines in less than 5 minutes. Plus, I now have the two plastic mounting tools to use for O-rings, spacers, and clips if I ever need to disconnect fuel lines in the future. Thanks for your help, folks!
Attached Thumbnails
FuelRegOutlet1.JPG   FuelRegOutlet2.JPG  

Last edited by Jeepuzzled; 05-18-2013 at 07:06 PM. Reason: Update
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post #127 of 180 Old 06-30-2013, 01:33 PM
hocgreen
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Originally Posted by jakecarder View Post
Subscribed page saved. great write uo. used it today to diagnose cylinder one missfire. switched injectors between one and two
I've been looking EVERYWHERE! Can you (or anyone) tell me which injector is injector #1? That injector is bad and I need to swap her out quickly. I am planning on doing this when I have the scratch to drop but right now spit and glue.

Anyone?
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post #128 of 180 Old 06-30-2013, 03:00 PM
billybooster2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hocgreen

I've been looking EVERYWHERE! Can you (or anyone) tell me which injector is injector #1? That injector is bad and I need to swap her out quickly. I am planning on doing this when I have the scratch to drop but right now spit and glue.

Anyone?
#1 is front of engine
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post #129 of 180 Old 09-03-2013, 10:20 AM
Terry777
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Spark plug gap

Hey, nice thread thanks for all the detail.

I already posted this question in the engine section but everyone is going to see it so worth a shot here, will a spark plug gap other than the specified plug gap in the Haynes manual (0.035 SAE or 0.89 MM) give any better combustion with the new misting gas?
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post #130 of 180 Old 09-03-2013, 06:37 PM
billybooster2
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I doubt it!

Stick to 35
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post #131 of 180 Old 12-01-2013, 09:24 AM
TJ Frank
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Subscribed page saved. great write up

1998 TJ 4L - 5.5" long arm - 35"BF mud and a bunch of other mods
2004 WJ 4.7L (wife) stock
2011 JK daily driver stock,... was told by the wife -> no mods allowed... end of the story
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post #132 of 180 Old 12-01-2013, 09:36 AM
brokeagin
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In my opinion you will need to upgrade the ignition system in order to increase plug gap...

1998 Wrangler Sahara in a constant state of repair or modification...
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post #133 of 180 Old 12-02-2013, 09:14 AM
Mattmax
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injector swap writeup for 4.0 L-Jeepforum.com

Have been replacing the injectors on my 87 4.0 L Cherokee, and chipped the bases off some of the electrical connectors. Do I need new connectors if the old are electrically intact?
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post #134 of 180 Old 12-02-2013, 09:48 AM
Mattmax
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great writeup!
Have been replacing the injectors on my 87 4.0 L Cherokee-Laredo, and chipped the bases off some of the electrical connectors. Do I need new connectors if the original are electrically intact?
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post #135 of 180 Old 12-02-2013, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
dukie564
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what do you mean by "bases" of the connectors?

If they stay connected and have good terminal contact, i don't see the need to replace them

1995 XJ Cherokee Sport
4.5" Homebrew Lift, 4.0L HO I-6, AX-15, NP231, D30(Open)/C8.25(Locked)
33x12.5 Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ Tires, 309,000 mi and runnin' strong
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/p...rt-xj-1297118/
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