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Improve XJ ride

6K views 67 replies 7 participants last post by  S8NNG8 
#1 ·
I have researched and been dreaming about making Improvements to my XJ for a long time now. Well, sometimes it all just gets too much and I go around and around and never settle on something. With that said, I need your input on a few things regarding improving my on-road ride quality.

I have a custom 3.5" lift, with an S10 bastard pack, Moog ZJ upcountry coils with 1" spacer, JK black takeoff shocks, and RC fixed LCAs. My handling in corners and such is awesome, but my jeep will jump over certain big bumps at speeds and it is all just a bit rougher than I'd like. I have a few questions and need some solid advice.

1. Besides control arm drop brackets and an HD off-road shackle relocation, what else could I do to improve my suspension geometry?

2. For a smoother ride that absorbs bumps better, would it be worth it to buy a set of red JK monotube shocks, Monroe Sensatrac shocks or something else that isn't Bilstein price?

3. Would ride quality improve if I got proper ride height coil springs, like from Metalcloak?
 
#2 ·
You first gotta realize that no 1 thing is gonna fix it all.
Yes, full coils would be better than spacers.
New shocks of any kind would probably be an improvement.
Bushings for the control arms, including the 2 on the axleside top mounts
Swaybar bushings
Motor mounts, it could be your motor getting jarred that making you dislike the feeling.
If the motor mounts are shot, chances are the trans mount is shot too.
Bit by bit it all makes it better. You could check prices and bundle a few at a time to get it all done.
 
#4 ·
New shocks would be an improvement over the once new JK takeoffs I have on now? Is upgrading to the red monotone shocks worth the money?

My shackle angle is very close to verticle. Is a relocation kit the only way to restore the shackle angle to around 45 degrees again?

I know it'll take time to dial it in, but I don't want to waste time and money on stuff that I don't need. So, I am trying to get the best advice that I can.
 
#5 ·
#6 ·
Yep, that's the kit I have been considering. I'm 23 and not in my career field yet, so I am not making much at the moment, so money is always an issue. Trying to sell some stuff.

My question about the shocks is just how much of an improvement on ride they provide over what I have.
 
#7 ·
Yep, that's the kit I have been considering. I'm 23 and not in my career field yet, so I am not making much at the moment, so money is always an issue. Trying to sell some stuff.

My question about the shocks is just how much of an improvement on ride they provide over what I have.
I have the same HD kit, I wouldn't recommend it. It's solid but it "bolt on" is misleading. It bolts on after you cut out your factory shackle boxes, drill holes in your floor and get nutstrips if you don't have them. Then it competes for space in the stack on your rear rails with hitches, skids, exhaust hangers, bumpers, etc...etc...etc.... They're also a pain to adjust compared to the other style in my opinion.

I would MUCH rather tweak the bastard pack down to ~1.5-2" of lift and use one of the RC-style bolt-in relocation kits that doesn't require modifying your vehicle to lift the other 1.5-2".
 
#12 ·
OK, I am getting two different stories here. I have also heard that the no lift one requires some pretty serious cutting and such. I'd be OK with that, but I'm not sure I want more lift right now, as that'll change my driveline angles, which are great right now. I just see more work being involved than I want right now. We'll see.
 
#13 ·
The HD no lift requires you to remove your factory shackle boxes entirely. If you go to the link Cruiser54 gave they actually have a little link at the bottom to a NAXJA thread showing the install.

The HD Offroad lift shackle relocation lifts 3/4-1" according to HD, which is less than any other bolt-in kit I'm aware of. It also doesn't include any irreversible cutting. I think you have to drill a couple of holes but you could go back to the stock arrangement if you wanted.

The HD kits are RIDICULOUSLY tough, the unibody around them will come apart before you damage those things, they're formed from 1/4" plate. Both versions also tie in not only to the factory shackle bolt, but also to the "frame" rails on three of the bolts the trailer hitch uses per side.

Other versions, RC comes to mind but there are 3-4 that are pretty much exactly the same, lift more like 1.5-2" but don't eat up space on the hitch bolt holes. They're not as beefy but frankly they're still tougher than the unibody they attach to. The extra lift these provide is why I advised both using one and tweaking your bastard pack, so that the relocation lifts but the bastard pack tweak puts you back down to your current height afterwards. A slightly longer shackle set to the proper angle will greatly improve flex and ride, especially when combined with the greater range of movement the shackle is allowed with any of the mentioned kits. It will also give you more adaptability to leaf spring changes in the future.
 
#14 ·
So far I've only read the OP. Based on the OP:

I think the best solution would be an entire 3.5" lift kit from Metalcloak, IMO. Except don't get the OME Sport shocks with it because they ride rough. Get Bilstein 5100 shocks for a 4" lift.

If you can't afford all that, then start with just getting some Bilstein 5100 shocks for a 4" lift.

If you can't afford any of that, then I have to tell you I don't think there are any cheap fixes.

Maybe you should sell it and buy another XJ that is stock height and leave it stock, or put in cushy OME TJ coils in front (like I have) for either 1.25" to 1.5" lift or 1.75" to 2" lift (depending on which length front springs you buy and how many skidplates). Those have a softer spring rate (140 lbs/in than stock XJ coils (147 lbs/in). My OME lift with Bilstein 5100 shocks rides pretty nice. Much softer than stock and it corners good too.
 
#15 ·
Well there might be one cheap fix (if it works) that might help some. You could try some Skyjacker Hydro shocks. They're allegedly soft (I've never tried them), but your handling would suffer.

The Bilsteins 5100s ride OK for my comfort and they handle very well, but they cost me $300 from Amazon.
 
#16 ·
I appreciate all of the advice, guys! A few days ago I finally got to pull my Jeep into the shop and look some things over. My track bar is tight, LCAs are solid, but when the wheel was turned back and forth I could tell that the axle was moving. It looks like the UCAs need replacing and probably the axle bushings too. I'm sure that'll stiffen things up some.

Oh, and believe me, if I had the money I would so be buying a quality lift kit, but I am poor right now. I am just trying to plan out what I will do.
 
#17 ·
I appreciate all of the advice, guys! A few days ago I finally got to pull my Jeep into the shop and look some things over. My track bar is tight, LCAs are solid, but when the wheel was turned back and forth I could tell that the axle was moving. It looks like the UCAs need replacing and probably the axle bushings too. I'm sure that'll stiffen things up some.

Oh, and believe me, if I had the money I would so be buying a quality lift kit, but I am poor right now. I am just trying to plan out what I will do.
When you say "the axle was moving" do you mean side to side separately from the body? That would be the track bar, not the UCA's. Though the UCA bushings likely want replacing anyway. Unless you need to change the length there's not much reason to replace the whole UCA, bushings will be sufficient. The LCA's are a little different since the flimsy factory ones are in danger from obstacles.
 
#19 ·
You'll get a little movement no matter what, but the track bar is there to keep the axle and body in line, that'd be my suspect if the axle is moving significantly without the body moving the same. The big giveaway for bad UCA bushings other than a visual inspection would be if the UCA's are rolling too easily or too much while you do that turn test or a flex test (jacking one wheel way up). If they're original or I didn't know I'd just replace them as a matter of course.

Side note: For both the axle side and the upper bushings, a ball joint press makes the job way, WAY easier. They can be readily rented from an O'Reilly if you don't have one. The only caveat is that weak passenger side mount on the axle side. I always stick a 2x4 in the open side of it to keep the press from just crushing that stupidly weak mount instead of pressing in the bushing and that's worked well for me. If you can weld, boxing that mount in with a little scrap plate is a great strength upgrade. A similar technique (the wood block or boxing them in) can be used when you do the upper ones to keep the arms themselves from collapsing if you use the press there as well.
 
#21 ·
Hey guys, I found a great deal on an almost new set of Rusty's UCAs and adjustable track bar, however I am hesitant on Rusty's stuff from so many horror stories! I've heard their "clevite" bushings aren't worth a crap! I upgraded my tie rod just a few days ago to a V8 ZJ tie rod, which is super nice! I know I still need to check all of my tie rod ends, bushings and ball joints nor thoroughly, but when I go over and off a specific very harsh bridge at highway speeds, the front end shimmies way too much! One tire hits the bridge first, which doesn't help. I've researched products and improvements like crazy and have come up with some solid advice bit also a lot of mixed reviews and such. I want to make my front end as stable as possible! With that said, would Rusty's UCAs be a solid buy over a new set of Moog problem solver UCAs? How about the track bar? From the last time I measured, my axle only shifted like 3mm, so I'm not sure I really need it. Thanks guys!
 
#22 ·
I've got 50k+ on my Rusty's arms and they're doing fine. I installed them in 2012 and just had them out this last summer when I did my axle swap. I think alot of the reviews are location dependant, along with how the rig has been used. Being in Montana with the deadly cold and then the 100+° summers, I think they've been put to the test on that parameter. I do get it offroad too, even though most here don't think I do.
 
#27 ·
Regarding the title of the thread:
My suggestions for ride quality is properly placed weight. I've kept my rig light in the respect that I've used aluminum vs steel for armor, and only in the crucial places I need. But I've got my subwoofer enclosure pushing down on my rear tires for traction. I've also done dual batteries, yes for voltage, but also to have equal weight on each front tire.
Along with adding traction, it has also given me a smoother ride cuz it has alleviated some of the "throw you around" effect caused by the body being almost too light for its own good.
 
#28 ·
That makes a lot of sense. Another battery or subwoofer is more money, which I have very little of right now. Haha!

Now, when I check everything I will really look more closely at the track bar. Has anyone redrilled the mount hole and burning sleeve to accept a 9/16" bolt? I have the two piece Moog bushing.
 
#36 ·
I would do it for the sake of space for an extra battery and some extra height before the intake is at risk of sucking up water without having to have a snorkel, in theory the induction effect is very real at highway speed, low speed stuff or offroad it really shouldn't make much difference.
 
#42 ·
My supplier has assured me that the Synergy, AlloyUSA & G2 all come out of the same factory. I have not independently confirmed this, so not going to argue with anyone who believes otherwise. >:)

That said, my G2s were obviously oversized and went in hard the whole damn way!!

Still & all, eighteen months for OE joints is unacceptable. And, who in their right mind would put a plastic socket in a ball joint? (yes, I have worked with many of the high-end bushing-grade plastics, Nylatron, etc. I still wouldn't put plastic components in this application, the loads are too focused, no matter how good the plastic is, it's not going to handle the stresses found in the joint as well as a sintered-metal socket) IMHO
 
#40 ·
Well, today was very productive! I thoroughly checked a ton of stuff and rotated my tires. Here is what I discovered.

1. My driver's side ball joints need replacing, so I'll probably do both sides.

2. The passenger's side LCA frame bolt was way too loose, so I torqued that down.

3. All the TREe look to be in good shape.

4. My track bar will need replacing, as the TRE frame side was moving up and down when the wheels were turned back and forth.

5. My steering dampener was loose on the axle mount, so I tightened that up.

6. My rear lower shock bushings are not seated in the shock great, so one side doesn't have the bushing covering to metal rim of the loop. So, I made two rubber bushings and installed them then the washer and nut.

7. My tires look to be wearing faster in the center at around 34psi, so I dropped them all down to 28psi.

8. My brakes need replacing pretty badly.
 
#44 ·
Alright, I need some advice on parts before I commit to buying.

Ball Joints: I have always been happy with Moog parts and know that they have a good reputation. On Rock Auto, Moog problem solver bushings are listed under premium and will cost around $20 more for a set of 4 over Dana Holding Corp Spicer, which is listed under daily driver. Which would you go for? The new designed lower ball joint from Moog looks pretty awesome.

Brakes: I have done enough research on rotors and I think I am solid on buying either the Centric premium rotors or the cryogenic treated rotors. I want them to last a very long time!! On pads, there are so many options! I have heard some awesome things about Hawk HPS pads. Other options would be the Centric posi-quiet, extended life, and Powerstop Z17 or Z16. From what I listed, what would you chose and why? I want long life but still good brakes. I am very gentle on brakes!


Also, I really enjoy rebuilding things instead of buying new stuff. With that said, can the ball stud on the track bar be removed and replaced with a ball joint? I've heard that it is not serviceable. If I cannot, I guess I'll buy a Moog.
 
#46 ·
I used moog PS ball joints and steering on mine a few years ago (2.5-3) and have had no problems with them yet, even though I've let them get too dry a few times. I honestly don't remember what I"m running for pads, which is unfortunate because they have 20 or 30k on them at this point and don't need replacing so they're probably something I should buy again....
 
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