[Redneckbuckeye]

Re: Cherokee stock specs
Common Design

All XJs were built as a "Unibody" design with the body and frame rails tied together as one piece as opposed to a body on frame design. All XJs have solid axles front and rear. The suspension is coils/leaf springs. All XJs came with disc/drums brakes.

Dimensions

(small differences may occur depending on optional equipment or trim level)

wheelbase = 101.4"
overall length = 165.3" - 168.8"
overall width = 67.9" - 70.5"
track = 58"
height = 64"
height with roof rack = 66.8"
ground clearance (from differentials) = 7.3" - 8.3"
approach angle = 37.6* - 38*
departure angle = 31* - 32.1*
breakover angle = 21* - 21.9*
curb weight 2wd = 2,891 lbs - 2,993 lbs
curb weight 4wd = 3,057 lbs - 3,386 lbs
cargo capacity = 71.0 cu ft.

Body

The body comes in both 2-door and 4-door styles with a rear hatch (liftgate).

In 94 side-impact beams were added in the doors and roof was strengthened. The 3rd brakelight was added to the top of the liftgate.

In 96 the body structure was strengthened some although it was not noticeable in appearance.

In 97 the body (and interior) was redesigned to freshen it up a bit. Most noticeably it gave the body smoother lines by changing the bumpers, flares, and moldings. The front fender was trimmed just below the headlights and replaced with plastic bumper endcaps that wrap around to the wheel well. The liftgate was also changed from fiberglass to sheet metal in this year. The windshield washer bottle was also moved to the inside of the drivers side front fender.

Engines

2.5L I4 carburated - 105 hp @ 5000 rpm, 132 ft lb torque @ 2800 rpm - used in 84-85 models
2.5L I4 TBI (fuel injected) - 117 hp @ 5000 rpm, 135 ftlb @ 3500 rpm - used in 86 and updated in 87-90 to 121hp
2.5L I4 MPI (multi-port injection) - 130 hp @ 5250 rpm, 139 ft lb @ 3250 rpm - used in 91-00

GM 2.8L V6 - 115 hp @ 4800 rpm, 145 ft lb @ 2400 rpm - used in 84-86

Renault 2.1L 4cyl. Turbo Diesel - 85 hp @ 3750 rpm, 132 ft lb @ 2750 rpm - used in 85-87

Italian VM 2.5L Turbo Diesel - 140 hp, 236 ft lb torque - used in overseas XJs

4.0L I6 EFI "Power Tech" - 177 hp @ 4750 rpm, 220 ft lb @ 4000 rpm - used 87-90
4.0L I6 MPI "Power Tech HO" (High Output) - 190 hp @ 4750 rpm, 220 ft lb @ 4,000 rpm - used in 91-95 and updated in 96-01 to 225 ft lb torque @ 3000 rpm (00-01 models use a distributorless ignition system)

Transmissions

Manual Transmissions
T4 & T5 - 4 & 5 speed manual - manufactured by Borg Warner - used 84-86 with 2.5L I4 and 2.8L V6 engines
BA10/5 - 5 speed manual - manufactured by Peugot - used only up to 89
AX5 - 5 speed manual - manufactured by Aisin - used with 2.8L V6 and 87+ with 2.5L I4
AX15 - 5 speed manual - manufactured by Aisin - used with 4.0L I6 engines
NV3550 - 5 speed manual - manufactured by New Venture - used in 00-01 in SE models with 4.0L I6 engines

Automatic Transmissions
Torqueflight 904 - 3 speed automatic - used 84-86 with 2.8L V6 and 2.5L I4 engines
30RH - 3 speed automatic - used with 2.5L I4 engine 94?-00
AW4 - 4 speed automatic, electronically controlled - manufactured by Aisin - used from 87-01 (87-91 models include a Power/Comfort button that adjusts the shift points)

Transfer Cases

The transfer cases used are all chain driven with aluminum housings. NP stands for "New Process" which is the brand, if you will. The newer ones are NV instead which stands for "New Venture". It is the same transfer case just a different name.

NP207 - "Command-Trac" part-time only - 2.61:1 ratio low range - used 84-87
NP231 - "Command-Trac" part-time only - 2.72:1 ratio low range - shift pattern 2H - 4H - N - 4L - used 87-01

NP228/NP229 - "Selec-Trac" - 4Hi(full-time) - N - 4Lo (part-time) - used 84-87
NP242 - "Selec-Trac" part-time OR full-time - 2.72:1 ratio low range - shift pattern 2wd - 4part-time - 4full-time - N - 4LO - used 87-01

Driveshafts

Front Driveshaft - On 84-87 XJs (NP207 t-case) the front shaft is a "GKN" style shaft. On 87-01 XJs (NP231/242 t-case) the front is a "double cardan" two-piece driveshaft with a CV joint at the transfer case end.

Rear Driveshaft - The rear is a one-piece shaft with standard u-joints at both ends. The slip yoke is located on the output shaft of the transfer case. On 84-95 models, the yoke slides in and out of the transfer case and is lubricated by the ATF fluid internally. On 96-01 due to a design change, the slip yoke is external (does not slide in and out of the transfer case). This slip yoke is covered with a rubber boot.

Axles

Front Axles
Dana 30 high pinion - reverse cut - 27 spline, 1.16" diameter shafts, 7.13" ring gear - used 84-99 (some axles through 91 are vacuum disconnect, 92+ are non-disconnect, 89-95 with ABS have 5-297x u-joints, all 95+ have 5-297x u-joints, all others have 5-260x u-joints)

Dana 30 low pinion - standard cut - 27 spline, 1.16" diameter shafts, 7.13" ring gear, 5-297x u-joints - used 00-01

Rear Axles
Rear Axle pics including non stock ford 8.8 and 9" and D60- http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/325000-325999/325707_182_full.jpg
(Note on Dana 35 axles sometimes referred to as Dana 35C - The "C" does not stand for c-clip. It stands for "custom" meaning it came from Dana unfinished.)
(Note on 8.25 axles - none of these axles were used on XJs with ABS brakes. If you have ABS, you have the Dana 35. Without ABS you could have either axle. 8.25 axles are c-clip)

Dana 35 non c-clip - 27 spline, 1.18" diameter shafts, 7.58" ring gear, 2.62" axle tube - used 84-89
Dana 35 c-clip - 27 spline, 1.18" diameter shafts, 7.58" ring gear, 2.62" axle tube - used 90-01
Chrysler 8.25 - 27 spline, 1.17" diameter shafts, 8.25" ring gear, 3" axle tube - used 91-96
Chrysler 8.25 - 29 spline, 1.21" diameter shafts, 8.25" ring gear, 3" axle tube - used 97-01
Dana 44 non c-clip - 30 spline, 1.31" diameter shafts, 8.5" ring gear, 2.75" axle tube - used 87-89 on some(not all) XJs equipped with towing package.


Gearing

3.07 - used with 4.0L engine / manual transmission
3.31 - only available on older (pre87?) 2 door XJs with "Fuel Economy" package
3.55 - used with 4.0L engine / automatic transmission
3.73 - found in some XJs with the towing package
4.10 - used with 2.5L engine usually, and older XJs with the "Off-Highway Vehicle" package.
4.56 - rare but can be found on some older (~ 89 ~) models with 2.5L engine and auto transmission

Cooling Systems

Open style - any normal cooling system used today. Opposite of closed style described below.

Closed style - has no radiator cap and utilizes a pressure bottle. This style cooling system was used in 87-90 XJs.

Airbags

Drivers side airbag (mechanical) was added in 95.
Passenger side airbag was added in 97. Airbags changed from mechanical to electronic in this year also.


Production Numbers

# of XJs built in given year:

84 - 93,326
85 - 120,328
86 - 107,225
87 - 139,295
88 - 187,136
89 - 207,216
90 - 151,230
91 - 151,578
92 - 137,826
93 - 144,961
94 - 123,391
95 - 120,234
96 - 286,463
97 - 258,958
98 - 182,845
99 - 186,116
00 - 165,590 (Freedom Edition - 2,821)
01 - 120,454

Total = 2,884,172

Trim Levels

84 - Base, Wagoneer, Pioneer, Chief
85 - Base, Wagoneer, Pioneer, Chief, Laredo
86 - Base, Wagoneer, Pioneer, Chief, Laredo
87 - Base, Wagoneer, Pioneer, Chief, Laredo, Limited
88 - Base, Wagoneer, Pioneer, Chief, Laredo, Limited, Sport
89 - Base, Wagoneer, Pioneer, Chief, Laredo, Limited, Sport
90 - Base, Wagoneer, Pioneer, Chief, Laredo, Limited, Sport
91 - Base, Briarwood, Chief, Laredo, Limited, Sport
92 - Base, Briarwood, Chief, Laredo, Limited, Sport
93 - Base, Sport, Country
94 - SE, Sport, Country
95 - SE, Sport, Country
96 - SE, Sport, Country, Classic
97 - SE, Sport, Country
98 - SE, Sport, Classic, Limited
99 - SE, Sport, Classic, Limited
00 - SE, Sport, Classic, Limited, Freedom
01 - Sport, Limited, 60th Anniversary Edition

Other resources:

Factory Service Manuals https://techauthority.gltghosting.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CustomerHome?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10051 or by calling:
1-800-890-4038 (US)
1-800-387-1143 (Canada)


I am wanting to order the rusty's 3" lift but am not sure which axle I have in the rear, as I see there are 2 given for the year I have( the dana 35 c-clip and the chrysler 8.25) how is the best way to deferentiate. Second question would you go ahead and order the spring packs for the rear or just the add leafs?

Thanks
Nate

[Taylorb]

Go with full spring packs and here is a link to ID your rear end, it was under the FAQ at the top:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/rear-axles-how-can-i-tell-88078/

Taylor

[Redneckbuckeye]

Thanks for the info

[sprintagogo]

You have a mighty fine base vehicle with the most powerful stock 4ltr fitted to the XJ in the 00 & 01 years (they changed the design of the manifolds and head for those years which boosted HP by approx 3-5hp?).

Unfortunately the changes incorporated into the 00 &01 models are not all beneficial. The modified head increases power and the distributorless ignition reduces servicing cost, simplifies plug changes and increases reliability in damp/wet situations. The two negative points of the 00-01 models are the front axle is low pinion and the head has a reputation for cracking.

The front axle issue might not actually be an issue for you, lift your Jeep and see how you get on. Just keep in mind that should you ever get the opportunity or if you bust your front axle and need a replacement just make sure you get a replacement from a 95-99 model. This will get you a high pinion axle with the stronger late model shafts. Your shafts and hubs will swap into an earlier axle as long as you keep the rotors with the correct hubs, callipers are identical in both axles.

The head has, in my opinion, an exaggerated reputation for cracking. I have this head and have overheated it a couple of times but all still seems well. All you can do is make sure the cooling system is working well. Fresh coolant and a good thermostat are important and if the rad is original it is due to be changed and is probably well furred up inside and just about holding together.

I still think the 00-01 models are the best as the head probably won't bother you and the axle can be rectified in a half a day for $100-200.

[Redneckbuckeye]

Woould you recomend flushing the cooling system and a new t-stat?

[sprintagogo]

Originally Posted by Redneckbuckeye

Woould you recomend flushing the cooling system and a new t-stat?

When I bought my 00 XJ 2-3 years ago the coolant looked like a muddy brown sludge coktail. The temp was fine so I left the thermostat alone and it is still in there doing a good job and may well be original? I did a thorough job of flushing the coolant and I felt really good deep down inside when I was rewarded with sparkling blue coolant as a result. However, within a couple of weeks the rad began leaking like a sieve so obviously whatever the previous owner had put in there is all that was holding it together (probably a few bottles of radweld).

One new rad and another gallon of antifreeze later and I was again feeling good with nice sparkly coolant and engine temps consistantly a couple of degrees cooler (not that it was running hot before).

I have had an overheating episode recently but that was entirely my fault for allowing the electric fan and rad to become clogged with mud. The rad has now been cleaned and the fan resurected and all is well again.

To answer your question, If the engine temps are currently good, I think fresh coolant and, unless the rad looks very good, a new rad is cheap insurance against wrecking the head needlessly.

[mainfr4me]

If you're going through all that work, a lower temp thermostat is fairly inexpensive and easy to install. I believe gasket and stat at the store was under $30 IIRC.

[sprintagogo]

Originally Posted by mainfr4me

If you're going through all that work, a lower temp thermostat is fairly inexpensive and easy to install. I believe gasket and stat at the store was under $30 IIRC.

This comment is going to spark the usual debate!

Personally I believe Jeep knew what they were doing so the stock t-stat is the right temp to allow the oil to work best, the heaters to work best and the engine to run efficiently. If cooler was beneficial then Jeep would have fitted a cooler t-stat.

I also don't believe in changing the t-stat on a whim, if it is working well now then why risk fitting a potentially faulty item (even new parts can be faulty). If you do decide to change it then buy either a genuine or top-quality aftermarket t-stat. I am sure someone will come along soon to recommend a good brand of t-stat.

[Redneckbuckeye]

Looks like I have the chryl 8.25, it was stated I have the highpinion axle up front and it is inferior to the 1997-1999, could some one explain this this? Sorry for the seemingly stupid questions, I am all new to modding a jeep.

[RedZeppelinXJ]

here is the easy way to identify your axles.....

go with the full leaf packs when you get the lift it will keep you happier longer

also i would recommend a coolant flush and that you get all of your fluids (oil, tranny, t-case, maybe diffs etc.) changed as soon as you can, you never know how good the p/o was at regular maintenance like that

good luck an happy jeepin.....welcome to the dark side

[RedZeppelinXJ]

Originally Posted by Redneckbuckeye

Looks like I have the chryl 8.25, it was stated I have the highpinion axle up front and it is inferior to the 1997-1999, could some one explain this this? Sorry for the seemingly stupid questions, I am all new to modding a jeep.

you actually have a low pinion dana 30 if you have a 2000. They have the pinion mounted lower on the pumpkin than the high pinion dana 30's which means they are a little weaker and arent as good for driveline angles, if you plan on lifting much over 3" swap in a '91-'99 HP30 (it is a direct bolt in swap) because it will work better with the lift.....just make sure it has the same gear ratio as your rear end....for 4.0L automatics they are pretty standard at 3.55 gears tho

[mainfr4me]

Originally Posted by sprintagogo

This comment is going to spark the usual debate!

True - not meaning to incite a riot or anything

I did this on mine because I do use my Cherokee when I photograph weddings, and idling for long periods in the popular wedding months of June and July in Wisconsin might not be as hot as other states, but it still can send the temps rising pretty easily. For me, it was a preventative measure - along with the e-fan override switch.

Did both for the same reasons I bought the Jeep - I can't tell a bride that I can't shoot her wedding because I can't get there, now can I?

EDIT: sorry for jumping off topic - carry on!

[Redneckbuckeye]

here are some pics of the new toy/dayily driver. They are from another forum since I could not figure out how to post them over here.


http://dieseltowingresource.com/showthread.php?p=175068#post175068

[RedZeppelinXJ]

you have to have 50 posts before you can put in pics here....and that link didnt work for me