actually yes there is other ways to test the fuel pump, going deeper into pressure testing at the rail:
-test fuel pressure at idle with the fpr vacuum hose connected, then disconnect the vacuum hose and hold your finger over it to stop the vacuum leak (still idling) and look at the fuel pressure now. remember both numbers. the higher number (vacuum hose removed) is the one you use to compare to stock spec.
-now connect the vacuum hose again and find a way to mount the pressure guage somewhere it can be seen while driving. like remove the hood and stick it in the wiper if it's long enough, or something similar. the more throttle you give it, the higher the pressure should get, and vice versa. basically, you're looking for a drop in pressure as rpms climb. ie: cruise at like 15-20mpg, lock the tranny to 2nd gear, give it heavy throttle and watch the guage; fuel pressure should be near that high number from idle with vacuum removed, and should stay at that pressure all the way to redline. full throttle should be exactly the same pressure as that high pressure at idle, again, all the way to redline. if the pressure drops off at any point as rpms climb, especially if it's a considerable amount, fuel pump is shot.
and fyi, a fuel pump can be darn near 90% shot and still provide perfect test results doing the idling test, because idle uses near zero fuel volume, like 99.9% of the fuel the pump is pushing will be just going straight back to the tank.