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Unread 04-23-2007, 10:54 PM   #16
WMW0505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XJ99
Cut a small hole in the frame and weld another nut in place, or a stud..

That's why the square tubing is the way to go. You can leave the stud in..















If you use the jack on the transfer case, and remove the 4 bolts on the
cross member that attach to the t-case, you won't have to fight
to get the holes to line up. Simply tighten up the cross member to the frame
after you install the drop, then tight the t-case. (makes it easier)




that is ONE HELL OF AN IDEA...but the problem we ran into wasnt the stud...it was the bolt...but its just which ever one brakes...good thinking though.

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Unread 04-24-2007, 09:43 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WMW0505
that is ONE HELL OF AN IDEA...but the problem we ran into wasnt the stud...it was the bolt...but its just which ever one brakes...good thinking though.


Yeah, once you get the nuts and bolts off, it helps to use blue loctite. That way they won't rust on there..
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Unread 04-24-2007, 10:02 AM   #18
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i broke the welded nut off on the inside of the framerail. so we ended up taking a cloths hanger and pushing a new (longer) bolt inside the frame so it would drop in the hole. then we spot welded the bolt so the bottom of the framerail. it was a pain but we made it work. To bad it didnt do much, still have vibes and still need a SYE
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Unread 04-24-2007, 12:28 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XJ99
Yeah, once you get the nuts and bolts off, it helps to use blue loctite. That way they won't rust on there..

that and grade 8 zinc coated...shouldn't have to worry about it anymore. (well we used SS grade 5 on 3 of them and Grade 8 on the one we had to tap) Whats the difference in the colors of loctite? isnt the blue the strongest? ive used red before as well...but that was on a paint ball gun, on threads where CO2 ran.
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Unread 04-24-2007, 12:55 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WMW0505
that and grade 8 zinc coated...shouldn't have to worry about it anymore. (well we used SS grade 5 on 3 of them and Grade 8 on the one we had to tap) Whats the difference in the colors of loctite? isnt the blue the strongest? ive used red before as well...but that was on a paint ball gun, on threads where CO2 ran.


Blue is removable with hand tools for easy disassembly, Red you generally need heat to disassemble...


http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=48&plid=153
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Unread 04-24-2007, 01:00 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XJ99
Blue is removable with hand tools for easy disassembly, Red you generally need heat to disassemble...


http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=48&plid=153
well im glad we used blue on mine...so when i put in my SYE and raise the cross member back up we wont have to torch the bolts out
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Unread 04-24-2007, 01:17 PM   #22
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http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoTCdrop.htm

It was in The " Tech Links for FAQ. Most of the answers are here!" Section..

Also it would be nice to know what bolts you used on the install.. Length Pitch so on and so on..

Not bad but more detail would of been great..
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Unread 04-24-2007, 06:23 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrboom
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoTCdrop.htm

It was in The " Tech Links for FAQ. Most of the answers are here!" Section..

Also it would be nice to know what bolts you used on the install.. Length Pitch so on and so on..

Not bad but more detail would of been great..
Here's where I specify bolt length/diameter/pitch http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showp...56&postcount=4

"To fasten the spacers, get four 10mm x 1.5 bolts 50mm long."

Jeff

Last edited by Jeff in PA; 04-24-2007 at 08:58 PM..
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Unread 04-24-2007, 06:35 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff in PA
Here's where I specify bolt length/diameter/pitch http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showp...56&postcount=4

"To fasten the spacers, get four 10mm x 1.25 bolts 50mm long."

Jeff

I think the pitch is 1.50 though.
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Unread 04-24-2007, 09:00 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by balloo93
I think the pitch is 1.50 though.
You are correct

I'm making some flywheel pullers for the old Kawasaki two stroke triples that take the 10mm fine thread bolts.

I corrected the link too.
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Unread 04-24-2007, 11:16 PM   #26
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I'd like to add that a 1" drop is not the only option. I have no idea where the classic 1" drop came from but many of us can do with less. Why not reduce the motor mount stress and messed up front driveline angle if you can?

Several years ago and 160,000+ miles ago I expeiremented with different drop heights. I found that a 10mm (just under 1/2") drop got rid of my vibes. Along with a 1.5* shim under my leaf pack this setup has worked well for me. I originally intended to install an SYE but just never got around to it.

My point is that, while an SYE/CV DS is highly recommended, if you are going the t-case drop route put some thought into it and only drop it the amount you need to. Measure your driveline angles and make the best adjustments for your rig.

I used washers to find the best height for my application, then cut and drilled some scrap strap steel to replace the washers. Very simple mod.

My apologies to those who have previously read my rant.
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Unread 04-24-2007, 11:23 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montana xj
I'd like to add that a 1" drop is not the only option. I have no idea where the classic 1" drop came from but many of us can do with less. Why not reduce the motor mount stress and messed up front driveline angle if you can?

Several years ago and 160,000+ miles ago I expeiremented with different drop heights. I found that a 10mm (just under 1/2") drop got rid of my vibes. Along with a 1.5* shim under my leaf pack this setup has worked well for me. I originally intended to install an SYE but just never got around to it.

My point is that, while an SYE/CV DS is highly recommended, if you are going the t-case drop route put some thought into it and only drop it the amount you need to. Measure your driveline angles and make the best adjustments for your rig.

I used washers to find the best height for my application, then cut and drilled some scrap strap steel to replace the washers. Very simple mod.

My apologies to those who have previously read my rant.
that is very smart thinking, if this was going to be more long term for me i would have put more effort into the TC drop but it wont be under there for a very long time.
-kyle
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Unread 05-04-2007, 01:21 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle_99'XJ
that is very smart thinking, if this was going to be more long term for me i would have put more effort into the TC drop but it wont be under there for a very long time.
-kyle
So did it cure your vibes?
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Unread 06-12-2007, 10:04 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXjeep97
So did it cure your vibes?
sorry for such a delayed post, yes it did cure my vibes for the most part. right around 30-35mph i get very slight vibes but they are very minute.

-Kyle
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Unread 08-10-2007, 01:28 AM   #30
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Hey Kyle, nice write up.

I'm going to have to do a tcase drop myself because I'm some vibes from my 2" BB. I'm just having trouble understanding

Quote:
Step 3
Remove the stud . To do this you will need to put two nuts back to back on the stud. Make sure that the bottom nut is very tight against the top nut to avoid stripping the stud as i did. Once tight then put a wrench on the top nut and start unscrewing the stud. This picture is a little bad but it kindof gets the point across.

Could you clarify that for me please?
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