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#1 | |
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Registered User
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How to fit 33's with 3" lift
I tried searching but I could not get the search function to work like I wanted it to. Anyway. I have an 85 with a 3" rough country lift and I am running 31x10.5's currently but I would like to run 33's. I still have the stock fender flares and I would like to keep those if possible. What triming/other mods will I need to do to be able to run these tires with out rubbing. I do not do a ton of off roading so my suspenson rarely sees full flex, but I would like them to not rub in normal driving and mild off roading (i.e. the beach). Thanks for any advice.
Also will I be fine with a stock gear ratio in the rear running 33's.
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#2 |
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Registered User
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Bodywork by the Dewalt Brothers.
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[B][COLOR="Navy"][ ] lllllllllll [ ][/COLOR][/B] The Trail Never Ends..... |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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This man has his head on straight. I'd reckon he has many degrees from various universities all over the world.
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#4 |
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Registered User
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I run 33s on 2.25" of lift. I trimmed up front, out back, cut and folded the pinch seam inside the front fender. The only spot I rub for now is on the inside of the fender. This is only when I am turned at full lock and going over a decent sized bump while the sway bar is still connected. A BFH will take care of that.
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#5 |
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www.midcoastjeep.com
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33x10.5s on ~3" of OME/JKS lift:
![]() Trim and bumpstop the bejabbers out of your Jeep and there's no problems. You can reattache your flares, leave it flareless, or do the TJ flare thing.
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'94 Cherokee Country Engine: 4.0 HO, Sealed canister filter, 3 core CSF steel radiator, CatCo cat, Dynomax Turbo Flow muffler. Electronics: Remote start/locks, Pioneer DEH-P7800MP w/XM, Polk Audio speakers, Garmin Nuvi 660 GPS, Cobra 148 GTL P&T w/Wilson 1000. Suspension: Old Man Emu 3" lift+OME AAL, JKS adjustable trackbar, QDs, LCAs UCAs, A.C.O.S., DPG Offroad adjustable bumpstop plate, Daystar poly bumpstops. Steering: Currie HD steering, C-ROK steering box reinforcement, OME stabilizer. Armor/Recovery: T&T Custom belly skid, Mopar gas tank skid, JKS LCA mini skids, Rock Lizard Super Skink Sliders, Mopar 2" receiver, ARB Bull Bar/Ramsey REP 8.5 winch. Drive train: D30 front axle w/Superior Chromo D30 axles & outter seals, D/S 4.56 R&P, ARB locker, Ruff Stuff cover. Ford 8.8 rear axle w/Superior Super 88 kit, Ford Motor Sports 4.56 R&P, ARB locker, SOLID cover, Russell stainless lines. Front and rear Tom Woods HD drive shafts, 242 x-fer case w/Tom Woods SYE. Tires/Wheels: 33x10.5x15 BFG Mud Terrains on Alcoas. Misc: Garvin Wilderness rack, Safari Snorkel, Redline Tuning hood lifts. Awaiting installation: Autometer A pillar gauge pod, oil, water, & tranny temp guages, PIAA driving lights, Goferit tie-rod flip bushing, '95 Brake booster and M/C, M.O.R.E. Motor mounts, TnT Custom 1.5" Shackle. Stroker Project: HO Block, '99 intake manifold, bored TB, 1" TB spacer, Dynomax Blackjack Header, Permacool electric fan. |
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#6 |
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Registered User
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Dewalt is a good option but I have found a good grinder with a cutting disc works best . I prefer no flares, it"s easier to cut more off when I mangle it. Finally a BFH can fix most all clearance problems.
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#7 |
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Registered User
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that's the look I am going for but I would like to put my flares back on. I would really like avoid any more lift but I would like bigger tires. I am guessing 33x10.5's would be less likely to rub, and I like the look of a skinnier tire better anyway. I have been looking at the 33x10.5's that super swamper makes.
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