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Unread 04-21-2009, 11:58 AM   #1
bhicks
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How do you burp a cooling system?

I recently replaced my engine and went ahead and replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat and all hoses at the same time. I oredered my radiator from radiatorbarn.com and it is the 3 layer kind. Since I replaced so many things at once, I am not sure exactly what is causing the high temps. My engine actually runs hotter now then before. I assume I probably have all types of air bubbles. A few guys on here have mentioned burping/purging the cooling system to remove air bubbles. How is that done? I asked this question on someone elses thread and then realized I was hijacking their thread. I hate it when people do it to me so I figured I should make my own thread. Details are very helpful since I have never heard of this.


Last edited by bhicks; 04-21-2009 at 01:09 PM..
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Unread 04-21-2009, 02:46 PM   #2
Donerstude
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try this article http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...BurpAirMod.htm
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Unread 04-21-2009, 02:49 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by BDurna89xj View Post
corrected link - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...BurpAirMod.htm
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Unread 04-21-2009, 04:00 PM   #4
bhicks
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Thanks for the link. When I get home, I will check and see if I have that coolant sensor. I do not remember seeing it when I swapped my engine, but I also wasn't looking for it.

To everyone else out there: If there is any other methods of burping the cooling system, I would greatly appreciate those as well.
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Unread 04-21-2009, 05:08 PM   #5
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You don't have that sensor on the 00 model it was changed in 97. You shouldn't have to burp the open system, just fill the radiator completely, run engine to operating temp, let it cool then refill. You may have to do this a couple of times to completely fill the system and remove all the air. Don't try to fill it with the overflow bottle, fill it straight into the radiator.
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Unread 04-21-2009, 05:50 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by xjfever View Post
You don't have that sensor on the 00 model it was changed in 97. You shouldn't have to burp the open system, just fill the radiator completely, run engine to operating temp, let it cool then refill. You may have to do this a couple of times to completely fill the system and remove all the air. Don't try to fill it with the overflow bottle, fill it straight into the radiator.
Thanks. I just got home from work and poped the hood to realize what you just stated; No sensor. I will continue to top it off over the next few days. As of right now its normal operating temp it between 215-220. I know that is too high and with all new components it just makes no sense why it is doing that. Hopefully it is as simple as air bubbles.
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Unread 04-21-2009, 05:53 PM   #7
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Is it a possibility that I put in the wrong thermostat? I ran the factory 195 and it seemed a little hot so I went down to Kragen and picked up there 180. That made zero difference. Should I have gone with the higher quality brand or different temp setting?
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Unread 04-21-2009, 06:38 PM   #8
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does it run at that temp consistently, or is it while at idle, at road speed, or in traffic?
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Unread 04-21-2009, 07:03 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by xjfever View Post
does it run at that temp consistently, or is it while at idle, at road speed, or in traffic?
While I am at idle it will crawl up to about 215-220. If I am driving around town or on the freeway it will stay between 210-215. On my way home from work I have to go up in elevation about 5,000 feet which means up hill all the way. It will consistently stay at 220 the entire way. Before I replaced the engine and entire cooling system, it would stay at 210 at all times. It makes no sense to my why a brand new engine and cooling system would run hotter than an old engine and system.
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Unread 04-21-2009, 07:23 PM   #10
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Did you use the same coolant temp sensor in the new engine that was in the old engine? That's only five to ten degrees difference, I know it sucks for no more than it is but it could be the difference in the sensor. If it's the same sensor, then what about the fan clutch? is it the same one that was on the other engine?
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  2. Sold'99 WJ limited, 4.7L, 3" IRO lift. Bilstein shocks, JK rubicon wheels, 255/70/17's, carolina driveshaft, IRO adjustable control arms, IRO adjustable A-arm
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Unread 04-21-2009, 10:35 PM   #11
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sorry I have an 89 I did not know they changed to an open system! My bad.
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Unread 04-22-2009, 08:58 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by xjfever View Post
Did you use the same coolant temp sensor in the new engine that was in the old engine? That's only five to ten degrees difference, I know it sucks for no more than it is but it could be the difference in the sensor. If it's the same sensor, then what about the fan clutch? is it the same one that was on the other engine?
The temp sensor is the same. The fan and cluth are also the same. How can you tell if the clutch is going out? Also, the auxilary fan doesn't come on until the vehicle is between 215 and 220. Shouldn't it come on sooner? Is there a way to make it come on at a lower temp?

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Unread 04-22-2009, 01:43 PM   #13
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Hope you overheating issues are solved. But if not, I just flushed my 2001 for the first time myself. I have flushed my MG a number of times. The way I "burb" is fill with coolant, shut down and let it cool down. Then I take off the radiator cap and prime the upper hose. You will see the coolant bubble up and then drain down. I add water(since I already put in 6 qts of antifreeze) and then prime again, add water, prime again and keep doing that until I cannot get any more water in. For safe keeping I will try it again the next day when the Jeep is cold, but then I will only be able to get one pour in and then it's full. Clean radiator, engine block and no overheating. Oh yeah--changed the rad cap as well. My two cents.
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Unread 04-22-2009, 04:14 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Vi-Queens View Post
Hope you overheating issues are solved. But if not, I just flushed my 2001 for the first time myself. I have flushed my MG a number of times. The way I "burb" is fill with coolant, shut down and let it cool down. Then I take off the radiator cap and prime the upper hose. You will see the coolant bubble up and then drain down. I add water(since I already put in 6 qts of antifreeze) and then prime again, add water, prime again and keep doing that until I cannot get any more water in. For safe keeping I will try it again the next day when the Jeep is cold, but then I will only be able to get one pour in and then it's full. Clean radiator, engine block and no overheating. Oh yeah--changed the rad cap as well. My two cents.
What do you mean by "Prime the upper hose"?
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Unread 04-22-2009, 05:18 PM   #15
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The electric fan wont come on till at least 212*, some seem to come on around 218-220*. The fan clutch should make a good roaring sound at idle with the engine up to temp. A new one will sound like a hurricane compared to a weak/ wornout one. Temp creeping at idle is usually linked to a weak fan clutch.
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  1. '95 XJ country edition, 4" coils/3/4" spacers, HD leafs with extra main added in, Ironman adjustable control arms, rough country shackles, aussie locker, JK rubicon shocks, 35" mudder's, soft 8's, cobra cb
  2. Sold'99 WJ limited, 4.7L, 3" IRO lift. Bilstein shocks, JK rubicon wheels, 255/70/17's, carolina driveshaft, IRO adjustable control arms, IRO adjustable A-arm
  3. Sold '00 TJ, 4" lift, rusty's adjustable control arms, skyjacker shocks, rock krawler adj. trac-bar,rugged ridge SYE and RE driveshaft, soft 8's, 35" mud king xt's,XJ HP D30 w/aussie locker, 4:88 yukon gears, hella 500's, rock crusher diff covers
4. 04 Dodge ram 1500 quadcab, yes, it has a hemi.
5. '08 BMW X3, Mods in progress.
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