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Unread 09-04-2012, 01:57 PM   #1
Xanatos
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1991 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Hendersonville, NC
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how bad is the rust damage?

Hey everyone, I've got a few rust spots under my floor pans and was what it is going to take to fix them. The main spots are under the drivers floor panel and next to the front of the rear leaf mounts. It appears the rust is not structural and should be able to cut the floor pans out and replace them with one of these http://c2cfabrication.com/store/adva...okee+floor+pan
Does the rust next to the leaf mounts look structural? or does it look just part of the floor panel? I really hope It's not something structural and I will just be able to cut it out and bolt new panels in. Let me know what you guys think.

This is the drivers side just before the rear wheel well.



This is the drivers side front leaf mount. It appears only surface rust on the mount itself, but I do not know if what is next to the mount is just floor pan or structural.


This is is the right side leaf mount.
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...41768092_n.jpg

This is the passengers side. It also appears to be starting some rust.
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...76041456_n.jpg

Here is my driver floor pan. The hole in the top left corner of the picture is actually where my right foot sits at the gas pedal.
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...87796284_n.jpg

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Unread 09-04-2012, 04:48 PM   #2
rugsucka
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You should really get to that rust in the shackle pockets very soon. If you hit the wrong bump you can push right through the floor. It's time to buy some metal and get welding. You can not repair this type of rust to be structurally sound with rivets and roofing tar. Bolt in doesn't really happen for floor boards. You need to cut out and weld in place. There is such a product as panel adhesive, but you would need to cut out, prep very well and only try to adhere to perfectly sound metal.

There are full floor pan kits available as patch panels.

The rockers are also looking pretty punky. You can also buy new rockers - once again weld in. Another option for the rockers is a 2x6 box tube replacement for off road durability. Once again.... you guessed it - weld in.
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Unread 09-04-2012, 06:12 PM   #3
Xanatos
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Is the metal next to the shackle very structural though? It doesn't seem like it would be with such a small bolt holding it in place. I really want to learn how to weld.. would come in handy.
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Unread 09-04-2012, 06:59 PM   #4
grainofsalt
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Quote:
Is the metal next to the shackle very structural though?
Yes it is. If you go to a thicker piece to replace it, If done right, will help stiffen the body.
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Unread 09-04-2012, 07:38 PM   #5
Xanatos
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Would it be best to go at it from underneath? or pull the floor pan out and tear brace it from the top?
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Unread 09-06-2012, 08:11 AM   #6
grainofsalt
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I would pull the carpet and go from the top, Unless you want a fire hazard...
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Unread 09-06-2012, 06:18 PM   #7
Xanatos
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Originally Posted by grainofsalt View Post
I would pull the carpet and go from the top, Unless you want a fire hazard...
Haha I'm hoping to pull the carpet out anyways. Will I have to replace part of the floor pan? Or is that a separate piece of metal that is attached to the leaf mount? When I look from the inside I do not see that bolt that is sticking upwards next to the leaf mount. I would think there is a piece of structural metal and then the floor pan is on top of that. So I would have to tear/cut out part of the floor pan to even get to the other piece.
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Unread 09-06-2012, 08:19 PM   #8
Back_In_Black
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boatsides!!!

its fixable.

keep us posted.
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Unread 09-08-2012, 06:35 AM   #9
raypla
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Get that carpet out asap. Hopefully it won't be as bad as mine was, yes thats my driveway behind the seat rail

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Unread 09-08-2012, 09:11 AM   #10
Xanatos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raypla View Post
Get that carpet out asap. Hopefully it won't be as bad as mine was, yes thats my driveway behind the seat rail

Thank fully its not that bad. I pulled part of the carpet up to look under there. It's only on the bottom in the pictures and next to the leaf mount. It hasn't come through the floor except where the gas peddle is. I'm just having a hard time finding someone who knows how to do this. I would rather not take it to a mechanic, but find someone who I can work with because I would love to help. And most mechanics don't want to work on this anyways.
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Unread 09-08-2012, 06:15 PM   #11
rugsucka
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You need to order a floor pan kit for the affected areas, or 16ga metal and a BFH to shape it.

This is an easy repair with a MIG welder. You do not want to pay a mechanic shop rate to do what a high school shop class apprentice welder could do.

Find a welding shop or autobody shop and start asking for leads. There is always somebody willing to make some cash or beer on the side.
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Unread 09-08-2012, 09:57 PM   #12
Xanatos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rugsucka View Post
You need to order a floor pan kit for the affected areas, or 16ga metal and a BFH to shape it.

This is an easy repair with a MIG welder. You do not want to pay a mechanic shop rate to do what a high school shop class apprentice welder could do.

Find a welding shop or autobody shop and start asking for leads. There is always somebody willing to make some cash or beer on the side.
Ok, so it is probably just the floorpan that adds to the structure of the vehicle and not a separate metal structural piece. I was also thinking if I had the tools, go to a junkyard with the owners permission and tear the junk Jeep up so I know what exactly I need to cut before I ruin mine.

I was actually thinking about stopping by the community college and seeing if they would take this on as a project, wouldn't cost but the parts and tips if they can do it. Especially considering most mechanics charge $70+ an hour

I don't think I'll be able to get beer for anyone though... still have to wait another year for that.
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Unread 09-08-2012, 11:00 PM   #13
rugsucka
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Use c channel stock or L bracket metal to recreate any rotten seat brackets.
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Unread 09-13-2012, 05:58 PM   #14
Xanatos
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Alright, I got someone that will look at it on tuesday! hopefully they will be willing to help me out. Turns out it was a little worse than I expected. It is rusted next to all four spring leaf perches. I will get a few pictures up later. I might just replace the whole rear floor pan and the drivers. Then patch up some of the other rusted spots with pieces of the old rear floor pan. The weird thing is that the majority of the rusting in the back is underneath the factory caulk. Very little rust is anywhere else, but pull up some of the caulk and it's rusted through in some places.

The biggest question is when I'm pulling up the floor pan, is it just spot-welded? I have yet to find video/pictures of people tearing the floor pan up. The videos are usually a before and after. Any thoughts on how to make pulling the floor pan up easier? I was thinking a puddy knife or chisel and a hammer.
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Unread 09-13-2012, 06:17 PM   #15
Xanatos
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I went ahead and scraped some of the caulk away, and turns out it was rusted straight through. I guess the caulk must have been holding some moisture or something. Got to get that fixed soon.



Here is my drivers floor pan. As I thought it would be.


The other part I didn't get a picture of is right above the front leaf spring mounts, pulled some caulk away... and it's almost rusted through. I think I'm going to try to pull most of the caulk on the floors just to try and eliminate the problem.
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