This job is easy as pie. Im going to make it sweet and simple because there are a couple other threads out there that are somewhat confusing.
My hood release cable broke after I was done changing the spark plugs. Luckily I was on base at the hobby shop and didnt have far to get home. My buddy went to the Autozone that had it, and guess what?...They didnt. Had it overnighted to the store. The part comes as an assembly and is called Dorman Hood Release Cable Part #912-006. Cost me $45 and about 10 min to replace.
What you'll need:
-New Cable Assy
-2 people (not required but greatly facilitates the installation
-Torx T30 bit/handle
-Philips Head screwdriver
-Deepwell socket set
So start things off, I forgot to mention that my hood was actually latched on one side (the other latch doesnt lock and needs to be replaced) so I first had to figure out how to open the hood. Took the headlight bezel, headlight, and bucket out. Did a little looking around and found a couple suspect bolts right around where the latch would be, so naturally I started unscrewing them.
There are two bolts. The one circled, and one directly above it that screws in vertically. They were both 12mm I believe.
After getting them out, I pulled the latch pin and spring assy off and found 3 hood spacers below it which apparently are a crucial part of the assy.
Remove the kickpanel on the drivers side. I do not have a picture of this because I felt it was very straight forward. Remove (two) forward most fasteners on the sill. Then take whatever size deep well socket you need to take out the socket in the well next to the brake pedal. Pull the sill back and slide the kickpanel off.
Remove the (three) Torx bits holding the handle housing on. They are a T30. These fasteners suck, especially on airplanes
Go ahead and unclip the cable from the hood. Be careful because we all know these plastic clips are not very reliable. It will save you a trip to an auto store. This will facilitate pulling the cable out.
You are going to take the dykes and cut the cable behind the handle housing so it can pulled out through the engine bay. Heres where having two people comes in handy. One person pulls the cable from the engine bay and the other pushes the rubber grommet out from inside the cab.
Here you are going to pull the cable line away from fulcrum. Just simply pull the fulcrum away from the hood and unclip the plastic piece from the bottom then take the silver cable thats exposed and push it to to the slot so you can back the little metal cylinder out of the slot. BOOM its out! At this point I recommend either removing the fulcrum and cleaning it if it is rusty or just douse it in WD40. Make sure you see how the whole cable was run and how it came out. Not confusing at all, but you want to make sure it doesnt get tangled on something while the motor is running.
Take fulcrum end of the cable and slide it through the hole from the cab into the engine bay. Heres where two people comes in handy again. Have one person push the grommet into the hole while the other pulls on it from the other side. When it seats youll know it. Mine didnt really make a noise but I could feel it pop into place on the groove it has.
Run the cable the same way it came out and then clip it into the (two) plastic clips the old one came out of.
Here's another place a second person can help. Have them pull back on the fulcrum while you take the silver cylinder and push it into the slot, move the cable down so you can then push the plastic piece into its spot.
Reattach the hood handle and housing with the (three) torx fasteners.
Reinstall the kickpanel and sill.
Give it a try. Hopefully it works for you. Its crucial to make sure the silver cylinder and plastic holding piece of properly in place or the release wont work properly. Thanks for following my no-crap write-up