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Unread 02-09-2011, 11:57 AM   #31
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starboard M View Post
I still have yet to cut the inner fenders on either side. When I bump to 37s, I will be tubing the rear fenders and cutting them even more, cutting the front inner fenders, swapping my 5 lug 44 stuff for 8 lug 44 stuff, and installing a rear 14 bolt.

Unfortunately it wont be a weekend project, and due to my lack of time it wont happen for about a year.
Yup, 35s work ok although they usually rub alittle with stock axles. Looking forward to seeing your tube fenders I so much know what you say about limited time (and shortage of funding ), my xj project has now been in the garage for 14 months

Are you really gonna run 37s on 14b?? I'm sure you know it, but you will have to shave the crap out of it, shave the ring gear, plate and you still have less clearance than a d44 on 35s. On the other hand, you will have a bomb-proof rear axle for 37s

When I checked the clearance under the pumpkin on my 14b set-up on axle stands for 39.5s, IIRC it was pretty close the same as Ford 8.8 on 35s. IMO you must shave a 14b no matter what tire size you're running. Do that, swap the drums to disc brakes, install a locker and you've got a damn good axle.

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1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 02-09-2011, 09:23 PM   #32
Starboard M
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
Yup, 35s work ok although they usually rub alittle with stock axles. Looking forward to seeing your tube fenders I so much know what you say about limited time (and shortage of funding ), my xj project has now been in the garage for 14 months

Are you really gonna run 37s on 14b?? I'm sure you know it, but you will have to shave the crap out of it, shave the ring gear, plate and you still have less clearance than a d44 on 35s. On the other hand, you will have a bomb-proof rear axle for 37s

When I checked the clearance under the pumpkin on my 14b set-up on axle stands for 39.5s, IIRC it was pretty close the same as Ford 8.8 on 35s. IMO you must shave a 14b no matter what tire size you're running. Do that, swap the drums to disc brakes, install a locker and you've got a damn good axle.
I will be doing something similar to what EricsXJ did on his rear fenders, and what he did to his inner fenders. Nothing out of the ordinary, except for maybe a couple little details.


I have the Balistic Fab 14 bolt shave kit, and from what Ive read, makes it have the same clearance as a stock 44. Im hoping its not as big a rock anchor as people make it out to be, but time will tell.
Im not all that great of a driver, and I usually hit my dif on every rock on the trail, so clearance is everything to me. With 2'' more tire, meaning 1'' more axle clearance, Im hoping to drag less. But like everything, Im debating doing beadlocks, which means I can air down to 1-5 psi, whereas I usually aired my 35s down to 5-10 psi.


It just never ends.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoVaHunter View Post
Honestly, its dicks like you that make unnecessary comments via the internet that have no impact what so ever.

Boatsides/Hybrid Cage/Tube Dash== Custom Winch Bumper== Bolt in HP44
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Unread 02-10-2011, 09:00 AM   #33
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starboard M View Post
I will be doing something similar to what EricsXJ did on his rear fenders, and what he did to his inner fenders. Nothing out of the ordinary, except for maybe a couple little details.
Should work nicely. No comp cut in the rear?


Quote:
I have the Balistic Fab 14 bolt shave kit, and from what Ive read, makes it have the same clearance as a stock 44. Im hoping its not as big a rock anchor as people make it out to be, but time will tell.
I don't know what i was talking last night I guess what I thought that an unshaved 14b is gonna hang lower on ~39s than a D44 + 35s would.

Sure, if you use ballistic's shve kit or fab a "DIY-kit" you should be at D44 clearance figures. That, and a 14b on 37s and I'm pretty sure you won't be grenading your rear axle any time soon


Quote:
Im not all that great of a driver, and I usually hit my dif on every rock on the trail, so clearance is everything to me. With 2'' more tire, meaning 1'' more axle clearance, Im hoping to drag less. But like everything, Im debating doing beadlocks, which means I can air down to 1-5 psi, whereas I usually aired my 35s down to 5-10 psi.

It just never ends.
There was this one big rock on a trail here that I've run multiple times.. I think hit my front diff on that damn rock every time, even though I knew exactly it was there weird, huh..

I would recommend beadlocks and running lower PSI, you get more grip. I don't think you need to worry too much about the rear diff, with 1/2" plating on the bottom, and if you install a pinion guard, you won't be killing your diff too easily.

Front is another story, but IMO it's much easier to avoid hitting it compared to rear diff.
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1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 03-10-2011, 02:22 AM   #34
Climbit
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hmmmmm now I am having second thoughts about the design of my winch bumper....

I like this ultra high clearance idea.... now If I can figure a way of doing it without using ugly round tube....

very nice fab work. and thanks for putting all the info together about hacking out the front crossmember... Ive been wanting to do that for some time now.
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Unread 03-10-2011, 02:46 AM   #35
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Climbit View Post
I like this ultra high clearance idea.... now If I can figure a way of doing it without using ugly round tube....

very nice fab work. and thanks for putting all the info together about hacking out the front crossmember... Ive been wanting to do that for some time now.
You can use ugly square tube instead

This sure is one of the best ways to mount a winch to an XJ.
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1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 03-10-2011, 03:08 AM   #36
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Great work man! I agree with Climbit -Don't care for tube bumpers, but you really came up with a great design. That's some serious beef the way you ran the winch plate all the way across!

Have you considered filling in the outer two triangles under the headlights with plate too? Maybe add a couple dimples in there too? Plus once you get your line and fairlead installed, it will be the shiite! I might steal this idea and just fill in the front all the way across for my brother's XJ. I think shackle mounts on the outside would look a little nicer too even though you may lose a couple inches of clearance in that spot, but it could be finished off all the way across the front that way. Regardless of my opinion, I still really like what you did.
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Unread 03-10-2011, 06:32 AM   #37
dcorn
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So after my last wheeling trip, I discovered a big ol crack in the unibody right below the steering box where yours was. Now I'm throwing all kinds of stuff at it. JCR 4 bolt steering box kit, YJ box, aftermarket pump, and PSC assist ram. I was hoping to weld the JCR plates to the inner and outer framerail, but I have no idea how to get a winch in there without hacking off the bulkhead like you did haha. Not sure if I want to take off the whole front clip and move the radiator or not. I will be using this writeup for a reference though, thanks for taking all the good pics. Wish I had all the tools and steel stock that you did haha.
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Unread 03-10-2011, 11:11 AM   #38
Starboard M
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
You can use ugly square tube instead

This sure is one of the best ways to mount a winch to an XJ.
You can do it with square tube as well. Vetteboy79 on Pirate did something similar to me, but used 2x6 tube.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paraleyes View Post
Great work man! I agree with Climbit -Don't care for tube bumpers, but you really came up with a great design. That's some serious beef the way you ran the winch plate all the way across!

Have you considered filling in the outer two triangles under the headlights with plate too? Maybe add a couple dimples in there too? Plus once you get your line and fairlead installed, it will be the shiite! I might steal this idea and just fill in the front all the way across for my brother's XJ. I think shackle mounts on the outside would look a little nicer too even though you may lose a couple inches of clearance in that spot, but it could be finished off all the way across the front that way. Regardless of my opinion, I still really like what you did.
I havent really liked any tube bumpers I have seen that have been made for XJs, so I wanted to try and make it look less like a true tube bumper. I feel I pulled it off pretty good, but Im a bit biased.

I considered plating in those spots, but I kind of like the "tubeness" of that area. Im also considering putting some sort of driving light in there, but I really have no use for any more front facing lights.
For now it will stay the way it is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dcorn View Post
So after my last wheeling trip, I discovered a big ol crack in the unibody right below the steering box where yours was. Now I'm throwing all kinds of stuff at it. JCR 4 bolt steering box kit, YJ box, aftermarket pump, and PSC assist ram. I was hoping to weld the JCR plates to the inner and outer framerail, but I have no idea how to get a winch in there without hacking off the bulkhead like you did haha. Not sure if I want to take off the whole front clip and move the radiator or not. I will be using this writeup for a reference though, thanks for taking all the good pics. Wish I had all the tools and steel stock that you did haha.
If you use your hydro assist that will take a ton of the pressure off the steering box and surrounding area. However, you can never have to strong a steering box area.

Does the JCR kit have frame sleeves? My inner and outer framerails were plated, but I didnt have sleeves, and you can see the pictures of the crushed framerail in this thread.



Tools and metal have been gathered over the last 6ish years. And having a friend who has some even better tools helps as well, especially when hes also good at bouncing ideas off of.

Glad the writeup got you thinking and maybe gave you some ideas.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoVaHunter View Post
Honestly, its dicks like you that make unnecessary comments via the internet that have no impact what so ever.

Boatsides/Hybrid Cage/Tube Dash== Custom Winch Bumper== Bolt in HP44
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Unread 03-10-2011, 06:52 PM   #39
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Wow, just read down through everything, very nice! Very thought out.
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Unread 03-10-2011, 08:24 PM   #40
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yea, I like plate bumpers instead of tubes, square or round
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Unread 03-12-2011, 11:23 AM   #41
Diamond-x
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This is a fantastic build and was one of the sources that led to my stealth winch project.

Here's a link: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/t...build-1157408/
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Unread 03-14-2011, 11:51 AM   #42
dcorn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starboard M View Post
If you use your hydro assist that will take a ton of the pressure off the steering box and surrounding area. However, you can never have to strong a steering box area.

Does the JCR kit have frame sleeves? My inner and outer framerails were plated, but I didnt have sleeves, and you can see the pictures of the crushed framerail in this thread.

Glad the writeup got you thinking and maybe gave you some ideas.
The JCR kit has inner and outer plates and one sleeve for the new 4th bolt hole for the YJ box. I'll have to decide if it's feasible for me to drill out the plates and put sleeves in the other 3 holes. I'm betting that in itself would add a ton of strength and keep the rails from crushing in.
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