Hit 130K, major tune-up time!

PCjason · 10-12-2006, 04:10 PM

Just the other day I rolled over to 130K and figured it was time to do some preventative maintenance. I made a list of things I felt I should do and was wondering if anybody felt I was missing something...

The List:
- Oil change (purlorator filter + gastrol gtx 10w-30)
- Seafoam (½ in throttle body, ½ in tank)
- Spark Plugs (6 x NGK FR5-1)
- Plug Wires (Summit Racing 8mm Wires (SUM-867625CR))
- Cap (Summit Racing Brass (SUM-867625CR))
- Rotor (Summit Racing Brass (SUM-867625CR))
- Air Filter (ACDelco)
- Fuel Filter (ACDelco)
- Serpentine Belt (Goodyear Gatorback Poly V-belt)
- Differential Fluids (SAE 75W-90)
- Transfer Case Fluid (Mercon/Dexron III ATF)
- Transmission Fluid (Mercon/Dexron III ATF)
- Flush Cooling System
- Clean Throttle Body
- Check all vacuum lines

If anybody has some recommendations for certain brands of fluid I would love to hear that as well! I consider myself to be pretty mechanically inclined, but do to lack of funds, I don't have all of the proper tools. Is it really that important that I torque everything as per the FSM, or will I be fine just tightening until everything is snug? Thanks far any and all help!
-Jason

anony91xj · 10-12-2006, 04:19 PM

For the most part, just tighten until it's tight. I don't see anything in your list that really needs to be torqued exactly to spec. Use your mechanical experience to tighten everything down until it feels right, you won't have a problem.

What year is your XJ? I don't know if all those things need to be done, check your owners manual and see what it says to do at 130k miles. Might want to add a tire rotation in there too.

Plugs should be changed every 30k miles, so they were due 10k miles ago. Cap/Rotor/Wires usually get changed with the plugs. Use Champion copper "truck plugs", not NGK's.

Air filter really only needs to be changed if it's dirty, check it before you buy a new one, you might not need to replace it. Same thing with the serp belt, no need to change that unless it's cracked or making noise. As for the fuel filter, some years don't even have a fuel filter.

Jmila1901 · 10-12-2006, 05:43 PM

Use champion truck plugs!

Clean your Air idle control

get 2 cans of sea foam. 1 for the intake 1 for the gas, oh and dont change your plugs before doing the seafoam in the tb.

SerialKiller · 10-12-2006, 06:41 PM

Change tranny filter, before doing the radiator flush run some Prestone Super Clean in it and buy a K&N air filter.

88XJSport · 10-12-2006, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jmila1901

oh and dont change your plugs before doing the seafoam in the tb.

I was under the assumption you should change your plugs after the seafoam, because the seafoam may foul the plugs.

severous01 · 10-12-2006, 07:54 PM

i agree with previous....change plugs after seafoam...and stick with NGK.

if you are going to do it, do it right. after the seafoam flush, buy a new tranny filter, change it and add the fluid. take to a dealer or mechanic that has a full flush system and have them vac'd with clean fluid. it's a 99% fluid flush and it's nothing near as crappy as jsut changing what's in the pan.

if you want the best in fluids then run royal purple. it's fully synthetic and doesnt require any additives for clutch gears and such. so in the diff you can run straight gear lube. you can run engine oil, diff oil, and tranny oil to get the best in friction redux.

if you havent replaced them yet, check wheel bearings and u-joints. check the seal where the slip yoke enters the TC for cracks it's an easy replacement and it's cheap.

i think the air filter is cheap enough to replace even if it doesnt need it....but the money could be spent elswhere...like in cans of brake cleaner for the vacuum and breather lines. if the VCB gets clogged all the air in the VC goes into the filter box....making your filter look nasty and collect oil. unplug them both and spray them through with the cleaner. then replace....if you bust the gasket in the VC it's pn 43244 at autozone in the self help section..you may have to order it.

10-12-2006, 04:19 PM	#2
anony91xj Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: North Jersey Posts: 2,742 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	For the most part, just tighten until it's tight. I don't see anything in your list that really needs to be torqued exactly to spec. Use your mechanical experience to tighten everything down until it feels right, you won't have a problem. What year is your XJ? I don't know if all those things need to be done, check your owners manual and see what it says to do at 130k miles. Might want to add a tire rotation in there too. Plugs should be changed every 30k miles, so they were due 10k miles ago. Cap/Rotor/Wires usually get changed with the plugs. Use Champion copper "truck plugs", not NGK's. Air filter really only needs to be changed if it's dirty, check it before you buy a new one, you might not need to replace it. Same thing with the serp belt, no need to change that unless it's cracked or making noise. As for the fuel filter, some years don't even have a fuel filter. __________________ 1997 VW Jetta - Daily Beater <---Totaled, seeking replacement DD 2004 GMC Envoy - Wife's Ride

10-12-2006, 07:54 PM	#6
severous01 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Hamilton, NJ Posts: 2,118 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	i agree with previous....change plugs after seafoam...and stick with NGK. if you are going to do it, do it right. after the seafoam flush, buy a new tranny filter, change it and add the fluid. take to a dealer or mechanic that has a full flush system and have them vac'd with clean fluid. it's a 99% fluid flush and it's nothing near as crappy as jsut changing what's in the pan. if you want the best in fluids then run royal purple. it's fully synthetic and doesnt require any additives for clutch gears and such. so in the diff you can run straight gear lube. you can run engine oil, diff oil, and tranny oil to get the best in friction redux. if you havent replaced them yet, check wheel bearings and u-joints. check the seal where the slip yoke enters the TC for cracks it's an easy replacement and it's cheap. i think the air filter is cheap enough to replace even if it doesnt need it....but the money could be spent elswhere...like in cans of brake cleaner for the vacuum and breather lines. if the VCB gets clogged all the air in the VC goes into the filter box....making your filter look nasty and collect oil. unplug them both and spray them through with the cleaner. then replace....if you bust the gasket in the VC it's pn 43244 at autozone in the self help section..you may have to order it.