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Old 05-30-2008, 02:16 PM   #76
BIG RED86
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I have one question too. I plan on doing this sometime in July, an i will put on the coats in the morning befor it gets too hot out. but for the 8 to 12 hour wait if i put the coats on at 7am it will be taky by 3pm but by then the temp here in New England could still be in the 90s. so my questions is if by the time the sun sets and the temp comes down, and the liner should not be taky anymore, what preperation should i do to beable to place another coat on and still have a good bond with the previous coat?

On another note this is an extremly helpful thread and i have learned alot so far.

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Old 06-04-2008, 12:59 AM   #77
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To follow-up with an addendum to this thread...

Line-X is based on polyurethane and is a hot-spray process. The texture can vary to meet your needs. My Line-X dealer is located on a chain of lakes that is popular with boaters. They shoot the bottoms of boats and jetski's. Also they handle a lot of work for SEMA audio shows encasing vendor displays to absorb noise. Additionally they have shot speaker enclosures for large concert speaker manufacturers. They once where shooting a set for a Rod Stewart concert when I was there.

Line-X can be sprayed on as thick as you are willing to pay for. Heck if it can help prevent a building from a bomb blast, then I think it can be sprayed on thicker than your average first coat roll of Herc. http://www.line-xicd.com and http://www.paxcon.com.

The only downside I have seen with Line-X is cost and the skill of the person doing the job. Just like with paint jobs, the spraying is best done by someone with a lot of experience. I would look at samples from similar jobs if the end product is visible, like the exterior of the vehicle.

The price of Line-X is steep. But if you're in it for the long haul it is worth it. I had my interior (5 years ago) and exterior (8 years ago) done long enough ago to justify the expense. But if you're going to flip the vehicle in a year or two, then the Herc route is probably the better choice.

One thing with the DIY route to warn about is pinholes. Make sure you are doing at least two coats to cover pinholes in your coating. I had done a homemade battery tray in Herc and with one coat it is leeching rust. A second coat would probably cure it though.
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Old 06-04-2008, 09:53 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIG RED86 View Post
I have one question too. I plan on doing this sometime in July, an i will put on the coats in the morning befor it gets too hot out. but for the 8 to 12 hour wait if i put the coats on at 7am it will be taky by 3pm
I only waited a couple of hours, and it only took a couple of hours to do a coat, so I had three coats down in about 6-7 hours.
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Old 06-04-2008, 10:05 AM   #79
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BTW here are some pics of what I eventually did

What I started with



First I did all the floor repairs that were needed (including replacing the rear deck sheet metal), then I sprayed the whole thing with Rustoleum Automotive Primer to give it a good rough surface.





Then I masked off the stuff that needed protection, and used toothpicks to fill the screw holes that I wanted to keep clean





First and second coats both went down pretty thick







Here are some pics after a week of drying and some of the interior back in





The pic of the driver's area shows a couple of details. The tcase shifter bolts were rusted out before, so I bought new ones from Team Cherokee. I applied Herculiner over the edges of the old ones, and then removed them while it was still wet. When I screwed the new ones in, I had a nice clean circle with crisp edges around the washers. Also you can see some standing water there (rain is coming in through the roof rack mounts), and the Herculiner is providing a good shield.

I will be ordering some of the vinyl floor covering next week and putting that down over the herc in the cabin area.

Last edited by ehall; 06-04-2008 at 10:37 AM..
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Old 07-14-2008, 09:06 PM   #80
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Reviving an old thread, but had some questions:

1. I can not find rubberized deck coating at any of the stores. Is rubberized foundation and asphalt sealer the same stuff? If it is do I want the kind with the cellulose fibers or not?

2. Why won't the latex based rubberized coatings work? They have many differernt kinds of this from 1 year to 5 year warranty.

Thank you as always.
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Old 07-14-2008, 11:32 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by Wrenchands View Post
Reviving an old thread, but had some questions:

1. I can not find rubberized deck coating at any of the stores. Is rubberized foundation and asphalt sealer the same stuff? If it is do I want the kind with the cellulose fibers or not?

2. Why won't the latex based rubberized coatings work? They have many differernt kinds of this from 1 year to 5 year warranty.

Thank you as always.
I found some at home depot but only came in grey or tan and they said it wasn't tintable. Tried all the specialty paint shops in town too.
Ended up using a bedliner called plasti-kote. http://www.plastikote.com/plastikote/auto/template.jsp?searchcode=RES,TBL&product=BedLinerGa llon
Comes in spray cans too for easy touch up. About $40 cheaper than herculiner up here in the great white north. Just finished it today.
Here's a pic.
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Old 07-17-2008, 05:27 PM   #82
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Well, I think I may have finally found the 5 gallon material talked about earlier in the thread. Do you think this stuff will work?

Gardner Flexx-bond: Rubberized Coating and Adhesive
Contains: Asphalt, mineral spirits, cellulose fiber, and polymer.
It states it will bond to metal, wood, concrete, anything it touches...

Herculiner has Xylene and Polyurethane.

5 gallons for $38 vs 1 gallon for $75. Do you think it is worth a try, or should I just quit being a cheap a$$ and buy the Herc?

Thanks.

John...
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Last edited by Wrenchands; 07-17-2008 at 05:29 PM.. Reason: Materials
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Old 07-17-2008, 09:57 PM   #83
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hmm, i might do this soon but put the carpet back in over it. i cant imagine the ladys liking it when leaving the beach and riding home barefoot...
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Old 07-17-2008, 10:26 PM   #84
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my girlfriend likes it just fine with no carpet. i just tossed a rubber mat on the driver and passenger floorboards and you dont really notice it
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Old 07-17-2008, 11:03 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrenchands View Post
Well, I think I may have finally found the 5 gallon material talked about earlier in the thread. Do you think this stuff will work?

Gardner Flexx-bond: Rubberized Coating and Adhesive
Contains: Asphalt, mineral spirits, cellulose fiber, and polymer.
It states it will bond to metal, wood, concrete, anything it touches...
Basically, that's tar, sand, thinner, shredded wood and hardener....it will work but it will also break down over time, anything tar based doesn't hold up to heat and abbrasion forever (that's why people will tell you it's bad to walk on your roof unless it's absolutely necessary).

The stuff you want contains either natural or synthetic rubber (it will say so in the contents) "rubberized" is often a sales tactic, if it's not listed in the contents it's not in there. Sherwin Williams can get it, that's who supplies it to the Navy for the decks of their ships. You can also find it at pool supply stores and Home Depot occasionally stocks it but they can definately order it (find someone in the paint dept that knows their merchandise)...the most common uses for it are the decks around pools (no-slip surface), RV roofs and expensive flat roofs on houses.

Wm
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Old 07-17-2008, 11:12 PM   #86
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Quote:
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my girlfriend likes it just fine with no carpet. i just tossed a rubber mat on the driver and passenger floorboards and you dont really notice it
guess ill have to try that but the carpet is still in decent shape so i dont really have a reason to strip it out..unless theres a small amount of surface rust underneath..might have to check for that........
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Old 07-18-2008, 05:11 PM   #87
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Heep,

Any idea on the name of the product to ask for at Sherwin Williams?

I have been to Menards, Lowes, Fleet Farm, and Home Depot and this is the only thing I have been able to find that was not latex based. Everyone looks at me like I am crazy when I ask for a Rubberized Deck Sealer that is not latex based.

Thanks for the info.

John...
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Recovery: AJs Offroad Custom Front Winch Bumper and Rear Tanker Bumper with Homebrew Tire Carrier/Stinger.
Rhinolined entire Exterior black, and Herculined interior.
Axles: 4.56 superior gears in D30 and 8.25 with 29 spline.
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Old 07-18-2008, 10:55 PM   #88
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The one I've used and really like is Plasti-Dip, it's a liquid synthetic rubber available in several colors. Check out plastidip.com for dealers near you.

Wm
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Old 07-17-2009, 01:18 PM   #89
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REVIVING! haha

after 2 years, how's it holdin up?
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Old 07-17-2009, 03:51 PM   #90
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Since this has already been majorly bumped, I'll say now that when I took my XJ to midway auto to have them look at my floor rust, I asked about herculiner. They told me rhinoliner was better, (i have never compared so im just saying what he told me) and that putting mats or carpet back on top of it will do bad things. Condensation between the mat/carpet and the herculiner/rhinoliner will cause it to peel away from the floor. That, theoretically, can allow condensation to build between the herculiner/rhinoliner and the floor, causing more rust issues that can only be fixed by pulling up the herculiner/rhinoliner. Doesn't seem like a fun thing to do.
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