[ehall]

I talked to the Line-X people about another project and they said their stuff goes on smooth by default and they have to do an extra step it to get it textured (didn't get details but that's the gist of it). I'm thinking the rhino liner stuff is the same--I think they actually sell that in a spray can.

[n20jeep]

Originally Posted by ehall

I talked to the Line-X people about another project and they said their stuff goes on smooth by default and they have to do an extra step it to get it textured (didn't get details but that's the gist of it). I'm thinking the rhino liner stuff is the same--I think they actually sell that in a spray can.

the texture of the professional spray-on stuff, comes from firing the gun a certain way from certain angles...otherwise, it would just be smooth

[CB3]

Originally Posted by n20jeep

the texture of the professional spray-on stuff, comes from firing the gun a certain way from certain angles...otherwise, it would just be smooth

I've heard it involves choosing a given nozzle for a given texture. Not sure. I've done the roll on one myself and got a better result than when I hired a local bedliner spray on place to do my next Jeep.

[CB3]

Originally Posted by hooper62

Maybe i missed it but i dont think i read what the "proper prep" method was. Would it be best to sand it all down and primer it since i read it doesnt stick well to metal?
Also im in the PacNW so its not very often that we have days 65 and up that often in a row.
In this long discussion i have become afraid to do this. Im afraid that ill mess it up and it will ruin my jeep.

It sticks fine to well scuffed paint, primer, or scuffed up bare metal. Just make sure to wipe it down with a towel and acetone (or Xylene) to degrease the metal, and then don't wait more than a couple hours for the acetone to be fully dried and gone. If you wait any longer, the bare, degreased metal will rust in Pacific Northwest, even in your heated garage.

So yes, it sticks fine to bare metal if it's been sand paper scuffed, then vacuumed (to remove dust), then degreased. On the flip side of that coin, bare, degreased metal will rust over night in the Pacific Northwest.

I degreased my bare metal floor in the evening, then quit. The next morning I was going to get started applying bed liner. However, the next moring I saw slight rust forming on the bare, greased metal floor, and this was in a heated garage (though I could only heat it to 65 degrees). So then I had to clean off the rust before I could start applying bedliner.

Point being, you can do this in the Pacific Northwest in the winter in a heated garage, as I did, but it's more difficult and time is of the essense on each step, especially the prep work until get first coat on.

If you do it in the summer, it'd be a lot easier, in Pacific Northwest, or any other cold, wet climate.

Don't be afraid to do it. It's a great improvement, but do plan ahead, including your schedule of steps.

[CB3]

Oh God no! Remove your rubber drain plugs before sanding, prepping, and especially before applying the bedliner. Those plugs will come in very handy later for washing interior floors after mudding expeditions. The combination of rubber floor and those removeable rubber drain plugs making for easy cleanup (and no moldy carpet) is what this mod is all about.

Originally Posted by taseal

cool thanks man! I guess i'm going to go and pick up some this weekend and do it myself.... how much extra do I need besides what comes in the kit to make 3 even coats? (everything covered)

I washed my interior, and sealed all the rust spots, so that is 1 less thing for me to worry about. I just have to use the 'abrasive' pad and get everything scratched up now I guess... I'll probably just paint right over those drain holes too.

most important thing for me is to make it quieter inside. I'm done with cars that I can't carry a conversation inside.

[CB3]

Originally Posted by taseal

how much do I need to make 3 coats? will the stuff from the kit be enough? (I dbout it)

The kit (1 gallon) makes about 1 coat, if applied with a thick nap roller (from paint store) for best texture. So you'd need 3 gallons, though you might only use 2.5 gallons. I think I used 2.5 gallons.

Doesn't anyone read the earlier posts in this thread? They sell the same stuff as deck coating in 2 and 5 gallon containers for the price of one gallon of bedliner. It's exactly the same product, if it's Xylene based with little rubber chunks (from recycled tires).

[n20jeep]

Originally Posted by CB3

I've heard it involves choosing a given nozzle for a given texture. Not sure. I've done the roll on one myself and got a better result than when I hired a local bedliner spray on place to do my next Jeep.

for the system we use at the shop (gatorhyde) the texturing is done with the same nozzle ....

i did the interior of my jeep myself and i was much more pleased with the spray on stuff than i was with my roll-on herculiner on the outside of the jeep

[CB3]

Originally Posted by bmyohn

it depends on how thick. i probably put down three coats but it ended up around 1/4" thick, but from what CB3 is saying, he probably put down even more. i did my coats with about 3/4 of a gallon.

I laid on 3 coats (or maybe 4 coats) and used up 2.5 gallons. The end result was as quiet as the original carpet and carpet pad had been.

Note: thick nap rollers from a paint store lay each coat on thicker and give a much better texture for non-skid.

[ehall]

What do you guys do about bolt and screw holes? Obviously I need to block the threaded parts somehow, but what about the heads? Do you leave room for those or do you compress into the liner?

For example the bolts under the seat, or under the shifter, or...

[CB3]

Originally Posted by ehall

What do you guys do about bolt and screw holes? Obviously I need to block the threaded parts somehow, but what about the heads? Do you leave room for those or do you compress into the liner?

For example the bolts under the seat, or under the shifter, or...

I suppose that's personal preference. Here is what I did, and what the "pros" did on the next Jeep that I hired it done on.

Don't worry about bolt heads. Just apply bedliner over them. If you ever need to remove them, a sheetrock razorblade knife with a sharp blade can cut the bedliner off of the bolt head if it's ever necessary.

Now in the case of threaded holes where you removed bolts (like seatbelt receiver belts, holes where seat bolts in, etc), roll up masking tape until it's in the shape of an earplug that is correct diameter to be tightly screwed into the hole a little way - so no bedliner gets in the hole. Taping flat over the hole isn't good enough because you'll never find the tape or the hole after bedlinered over it. You need the earplug shaped wad of tape screwed in tightly into the hold and sticking up at least a 1/2" so you can find the hole again later.

If you get any bedliner in a hole a little bit, most of it can be trimmed out after drying by using a sheetrock razorblade knife. Any slight bit of dried bedliner in a threads will be forced out of the threads by the bolt when you next screw it in the hole.

It's ideal (less work) to keep all bedliner out of threaded holes by use of masking tape as I described. I suppose that instead of masking tape wadded up into an earplug shaped hole plug, you could also just screw in the bolt a little bit and leave it sticking out to plug the hole (however, then you'd have to clean the bolt off after - or use a new bolt).

I explained all the prep details and how to details in painful detail earlier in this thread. Please go back and read it.

[ehall]

I'm not worried about the threads, that's what tap and die kits are for.

I'm not really interested in herculining the bolts either, I am just wondering about the heads and whether to leave the metal exposed or compress the stuff.

What did the professionals do, did they just cover the bolts as they lay?

[Bryson]

Originally Posted by CB3

don't wait more than a couple hours for the acetone to be fully dried and gone. If you wait any longer, the bare, degreased metal will rust in Pacific Northwest, even in your heated garage.

Wiped acetone evaporates in seconds and even a decent size puddle will take less than a minute. The surface can be coated almost instantly after wiping it down with acetone.

[geewally9]

Has anyone put the carpet back ontop of the liner? I kinda want to do the liner mainly as rust preventative and if I do happen to flood my car then I won't have to worry about if I get it all up or not. I figure if I do 3 layers AND put the carpet back in that I will really lose alot of the extra sounds right?

[KamekLocked]

Back from the dead but good thread.

I was wondering I have some surface rust on the drivers side and was going to sand that and seal it with POR-15, can I then use a Xylene deck liner over the por-15 or does it need to be prepped again?

Do I even need to use por-15 if the Xylene deck linder will seal it air tight as long as I sand as much surface rust off as possible?

[Mr_Random]

Originally Posted by KamekLocked

Back from the dead but good thread.

I was wondering I have some surface rust on the drivers side and was going to sand that and seal it with POR-15, can I then use a Xylene deck liner over the por-15 or does it need to be prepped again?

Do I even need to use por-15 if the Xylene deck linder will seal it air tight as long as I sand as much surface rust off as possible?

I'd bet on a yes, you can put it over the por 15, and it'll need to be prepped, and yes, because it's not only deck COATING, it's deck SEALER. If it can seal wood, I'm sure it can seal metal...

My question is; how the heck am I supposed to be able to do anything with it, when even at night we're lucky to get below EIGHTY degrees??? This has been one of the coldest may's in Yuma history, but suddenly it jumped to 110 high during the day, and it aint gonna get cooler this summer!

There's about NEGATIVE humidity here, haha, so I imagine this stuff would dry about the instant I touch it to something, even in the morning or evening, where we get a good temp of 90*...

I'm glad I read this thread! Thanks for bringing it back from the dead!