help with XJ lift and other adds - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 24 Old 02-23-2011, 03:48 PM
xjfever
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1995 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: north Ga.
Posts: 14,216
JK moabs are 5 on 5 bolt pattern and come stock with 32" tires. The TJ moabs come with 31" tires and are 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern.


  1. '95 XJ country edition, 4" coils/3/4" spacers, HD leafs with extra main added in, Ironman adjustable control arms, rough country shackles, aussie locker, JK rubicon shocks, 35" mudder's, soft 8's, cobra cb
  2. Sold'99 WJ limited, 4.7L, 3" IRO lift. Bilstein shocks, JK rubicon wheels, 255/70/17's, carolina driveshaft, IRO adjustable control arms, IRO adjustable A-arm
  3. Sold '00 TJ, 4" lift, rusty's adjustable control arms, skyjacker shocks, rock krawler adj. trac-bar,rugged ridge SYE and RE driveshaft, soft 8's, 35" mud king xt's,XJ HP D30 w/aussie locker, 4:88 yukon gears, hella 500's, rock crusher diff covers
4. 04 Dodge ram 1500 quadcab, yes, it has a hemi.
5. '08 BMW X3, Mods in progress.
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post #17 of 24 Old 02-23-2011, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
XJforlife
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1998 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Harvest
Posts: 20
Ok, I will check the classifieds and see what I can find. I was planning on using either bf goodrich all-terrains or interco TrXus sts all terrain radials. as far as lights go, what are good for grill mounting?
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post #18 of 24 Old 02-24-2011, 04:31 AM
blingII
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1998 XJ Cherokee 
 
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Location: United States
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Go with the AT KO's. Quieter, better fuel economy, road wear, wet and dry pavement manners than the more aggressive mud lug tires. If you are after fuel economy, skip the lift for reasons stated in a prior post. In case you haven't been watching the news, word is gas will easily hit $4 US a gallon by spring. I average 15 mpg highway in my lifted XJ (4.5" on 32" AT KO, 3.55 w AW4) and I don't even have the added weight of aftermarket rock bumpers, tire carriers or a big parachute of a cargo rack carrying enough lighting to cover a night time Pop Warner football game.

If you really want to wheel, find a beater, tag it, lift it, lock it, protect the rockers, tank, tranny and t-case then beat the snot out of it. You will find wheeling without worrying about how carnage may prevent you from getting where ever the day after and spending tons of money to protect sheet metal and paint VERY LIBERATING.

I LIVE to fix the jeep I RIDE so that I AM not walking while my other JEEP gets fixed...
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post #19 of 24 Old 02-24-2011, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
XJforlife
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1998 XJ Cherokee 
 
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Location: Harvest
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Yeah, I have been watching about the riots and gas prices. I may just go with standard AT tires and buy new exhaust and grill lights. Besides that, probably will leave it stock. had anyone run an engine control module? like a hypertech? cause im interested in finding out if they work
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post #20 of 24 Old 02-25-2011, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
XJforlife
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1998 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Harvest
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So as of now, my plan is to run BFG AT KO 30's (hopefully fits stock suspension), replace the entire exhaust from header back with 2.5 inch (family friends are good friends with an exhaust shop that can mandrel bend me the entire thing) new muffler and high flow cat, hypertech power programmer and fog lights with a set of grill lights. Any suggestions for lights, muffler, cat?
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post #21 of 24 Old 02-27-2011, 08:56 AM
sdhawks_2000
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1989 XJ Cherokee 
 
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Location: yuba city ca
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31 will not affect your mileage enough to even see im running 1 4 inch and 33 and dont see a real drop in mileage the only problem i have have is the damn death wobble
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post #22 of 24 Old 02-27-2011, 09:09 AM
xjfever
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I would skip the hypertech programmer. It will do absolutely nothing for you except make your wallet lighter. The exhaust upgrades along with a bored throttle body and better air intake will help more. Also make sure all your ignition components are fresh and all the fluids are as well.

  1. '95 XJ country edition, 4" coils/3/4" spacers, HD leafs with extra main added in, Ironman adjustable control arms, rough country shackles, aussie locker, JK rubicon shocks, 35" mudder's, soft 8's, cobra cb
  2. Sold'99 WJ limited, 4.7L, 3" IRO lift. Bilstein shocks, JK rubicon wheels, 255/70/17's, carolina driveshaft, IRO adjustable control arms, IRO adjustable A-arm
  3. Sold '00 TJ, 4" lift, rusty's adjustable control arms, skyjacker shocks, rock krawler adj. trac-bar,rugged ridge SYE and RE driveshaft, soft 8's, 35" mud king xt's,XJ HP D30 w/aussie locker, 4:88 yukon gears, hella 500's, rock crusher diff covers
4. 04 Dodge ram 1500 quadcab, yes, it has a hemi.
5. '08 BMW X3, Mods in progress.
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post #23 of 24 Old 02-27-2011, 09:54 AM
mosh-n-roll
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xjfever View Post
I would skip the hypertech programmer. It will do absolutely nothing for you except make your wallet lighter.
I agree, the programmer is just a waste of money. Go with what was said in the previous post and you should notice some changes.

It is important that you keep up with fluids, and make sure you're plugs, wires, etc are in good shape also!

2009 jk 2 door 6 speed.

Sold - 98 4 door XJ, 4.0, AX15, 8.25 w/ Aussie, HP-D30 w/Aussie, 4" IRO lift, custom front bumper, 34x10.5 Super Swamper LTB's.
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post #24 of 24 Old 02-27-2011, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
XJforlife
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1998 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Harvest
Posts: 20
Well as of 2 months ago, I replaced my plugs with E3's and my distributor and wires with a new accel unit. I'm getting ready to change the oil, the only thing I run right now is synthetic from mobile or maybe royal purple when I can find it for the right price. Also, whats every ones take on replacing the mech fan with an electric set up?
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