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08-05-2012, 03:21 PM
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio
Posts: 363
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what about tearing the dash apart and installing the switch? there won't be directions in the light box for that haha. that's one of my biggest concerns.
__________________
1999 Cherokee classic- 3" RC lift with 31" Firestones.
selling "snowflake" 15x7 wheels with 225/75/15 tires, pm me.
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08-05-2012, 04:45 PM
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#17
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 710
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do you not have access to wire the switch behind the dash? since no ones sure on what exactly it is your wanting maybe describe in detail what you want. i'd suggest self tapping screws if you have access to run wire.
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08-05-2012, 05:14 PM
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#18
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio
Posts: 363
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what I mean is I don't know how to take apart the dash. I know I need to take it apart to install the on/off switch for the lights. don't I? I've seen threads where people ask to see where others have installed aux switches, but nobody says how they have done it.
__________________
1999 Cherokee classic- 3" RC lift with 31" Firestones.
selling "snowflake" 15x7 wheels with 225/75/15 tires, pm me.
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08-05-2012, 05:28 PM
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#19
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 1,173
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rigging lights is easy, i'd recommend going with a fused connection.
My first fog lights were wired directly to the positive and negative battery terminals, i ran the positive into the cab and attached it to a household lightswich, that i bolted under the dash. Wasent pretty but it worked.
The proper way to wire lighting is to use a relay, and it works like a "motor" that would flick the lightswitch above,
the idea is that you dont want a high amp 12v wire running into the cab, (Possible fire hazard)
Relays are a tiny electromagnetic motor, that turns it on when a 12v current is passed through it, I wired mine into my accessory wire that leads to the back of the radio. It turns on when the car turns on. When no power is going through it the relay turns off. Shutting off the lights, you can also add an on/off switch into the relay current wire to act as a manual switch, without the switch your lights would be on when ever you start your car.
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'98 TJ Manual -2.5" rcx long arm on 31
'94 BMW e34, 3.0 v8 manual
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08-05-2012, 05:31 PM
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#20
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 710
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http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=105071
there is a plastic retainer for the headlight switch, everything else is plastic and snaps together. there are some links on jeep forum for removal of xj dash, specifically one install for led lighting. search was found from google using the same keywords.
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08-05-2012, 05:48 PM
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#21
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio
Posts: 363
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thanks fang_x that's very informational right there.
__________________
1999 Cherokee classic- 3" RC lift with 31" Firestones.
selling "snowflake" 15x7 wheels with 225/75/15 tires, pm me.
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08-05-2012, 06:25 PM
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#22
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio
Posts: 363
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I know these are kind of dark and blurry, but bare with me. I started to take apart the middle part of the dash and I found that on my empty switch spot (I'm assuming that's factory fogs) there's wires behind it. could I use this at all with after market lights? also sorry they are sideways, I can't seem to fix that.
__________________
1999 Cherokee classic- 3" RC lift with 31" Firestones.
selling "snowflake" 15x7 wheels with 225/75/15 tires, pm me.
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08-05-2012, 07:53 PM
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#23
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: San Tan Valley Arizona, AZ
Posts: 6,779
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There is so much "half-information" here I think it would be wise to summarize what would be considered "good practices" here;
1. Use a relay between the lights and the power source. Running the power directly from your switch in the dash to the lights in a good way to wind up with a fried light switch.
2. FUSE the power lead from your 12V source to your lights. You don't want a fire due to wiring damage later!!
3. Locate your switch whereever you find convenient. The console has lots of suitable locations. Pick a switch that won't get bumped on by accident.
4. Unless you have a REALLY good reason to want your lights on with key in the "off" position, draw power for the light switch from a switched 12V source. There are plenty available. Just look at your junction block wiring diagram in the passenger's kick panel.
5. Run separate grounds from the lights back to the chassis. Don't rely on the bumper, roof rack, etc. to provide a good ground.
6. Don't use crimp connections under the hood. They corrode once moisture gets to them, and then become intermittent or worse yet, they become a high resistance connection, and then you have melted wires. SOLDER your connections and tape or seal with heat shrink tubing.
This might help.
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AZ-Jeff
1992 XJ 2" lift -- RIP
2000 XJ 3" lift -- Australian Ford Big Brakes up front, rock rails, ZJ rear discs (with WORKING parking brake), C4x4 rear bumper/tire carrier, Hella H4 headlights, IPF driving lights, OEM skid plates, OME springs/shocks, JKS LCA's, JKS Sway Bar links.
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08-05-2012, 09:01 PM
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#24
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 710
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Personally I like heat shrink solderless terminals. You can use a heat gun or a lighter to encase the wire, instead of soldering two wires together you can use what is called a butt connector, I guess they call it that because you could use the end of a cigarette to heat the connection with. Once encased inside the wire its solid. A more expensive wire connector but worth every penny. adding lights will be easy since you already have accessory rocker panel switches in the dash. You can also get timed delay relays that will automatically cut off your lights, one that has a 30 minute delay, if you happen to leave your lights on. $30 for that type of relay.
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08-05-2012, 10:53 PM
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#25
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio
Posts: 363
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now those two post are the best information I have gotten. thank you both, so much.
__________________
1999 Cherokee classic- 3" RC lift with 31" Firestones.
selling "snowflake" 15x7 wheels with 225/75/15 tires, pm me.
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08-06-2012, 02:53 PM
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#26
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 710
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keep up posted on the install
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08-10-2012, 04:04 PM
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#27
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio
Posts: 363
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how should I run my switch wires through the firewall? I know there is an existing hole by the brake pedal but if I just cut a hole in it how do I re-seal it?
__________________
1999 Cherokee classic- 3" RC lift with 31" Firestones.
selling "snowflake" 15x7 wheels with 225/75/15 tires, pm me.
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08-10-2012, 07:22 PM
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#28
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio
Posts: 363
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I got the lights mounted, got all of the wires in the correct place. than realized I was going to need longer wires; so I spliced into the two power wires and got it all set up. decided to test it before going through the firewall, and... the lights won't work. go figure. the light on the switch is working tho. just not the lights. I tried re-splicing the wire that went to the lights and that didn't work. so I'm lost.
__________________
1999 Cherokee classic- 3" RC lift with 31" Firestones.
selling "snowflake" 15x7 wheels with 225/75/15 tires, pm me.
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08-11-2012, 03:13 AM
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#29
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 710
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are you running through a relay? which schematic are you going by.
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08-11-2012, 06:59 AM
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#30
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio
Posts: 363
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the kit I got doesn't have a relay. I'm planning on heading to auto zone today, which one should I pick up?
__________________
1999 Cherokee classic- 3" RC lift with 31" Firestones.
selling "snowflake" 15x7 wheels with 225/75/15 tires, pm me.
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